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30th October to 5th November - End of the Trip

Sunday 30^th October
Off we set to retrace our tracks back towards Esperance. Of course muggins here very nervous about chauffeur wanting to short cut across the dry lake which could possibly be not so dry. No worries, navigated our way past the warren of 'dodgy' tracks and back on to the main track which is the extension of Fisheries Road. It seemed to take a lot longer this time. There are plenty of wild flowers about which is rather nice, saw another 'Monty' (python). Made it to Condingup Pub for lunch (oh dear, this is becoming rather a vice – these pub lunches), but this time after enduring the rough track from Israelite Bay I needed a 'treat'. We shared a local snapper fish burger, not so great, but the cider washed it down well. Back into Esperance. Chauffeur dropped me off at a laundrette whilst he did the more important stuff (get Max washed down:) There were plenty more tracks to explore between Esperance and Bremer Bay. Have been a bit slack keeping up with this blog and the next few camps have sort of blended into one. Think we stayed at Quagi beach. These camps along this stretch of coast are either Shire or DEC run. They are all rather lovely, however we had persistent south easterly winds and found it was a bit of a chore trying to find a suitable overnight spot with sufficient wind shelter.
Monday 31^st October
Continuing the exploration. I think we must have checked out all the tracks and I think what might be the perfect beach and camp, given different wind conditions it might not be so good. Still very little blue sky and for me that always makes things seem a bit flat. Checking out Margaret Cove were quite surprised to find more fishing shacks. Who owns these places, or has right or use etc. etc. The little inlet looks great for a tinny, but the mosquitoes were hungry so we didn't even stay for morno's. Munglinup Inlet is also good. Some interesting history – a fascinating ruin. These places so intrigue me. Oh to have been a fly on the wall a hundred years ago. How tough must life have been. There was a HUGE Morton Bay fig tree, was just starting to scramble up the massive 'legs and feet' of this monster but then became aware of a lot of bees. Hmm, not game enough to venture further. Had a pose on the front steps of the old homestead with chauffeur setting up the delayed exposure shot. Always amusing because inevitably the camera falls over etc. The little beach we stopped at already had a few campers – one with dogs who scampered over to check us out. No sooner had we sat down on the rocks when one dropped a stick at chauffeur feet – how perceptive – it obviously knew I can't throw anything for toffee. Fortunately, chauffeur didn't have to lose face by tiring before the dog – this creature had as much energy as Lily but the rocks were very rough and the way it was scrambling after the stick it was going to give itself sore paws. We camped at Munglinup. A very nice shire run camp and we had it to ourselves.
Tuesday 1^st November
Still no respite from the weather. Can't remember what blue skies are!!! West along Springdale Road past Lake Shaster National Park. Very nice. Left down Southern Ocean Rd to Starvation Boat Harbour. Another nice beach/natural harbour, but not lunch time so drove on, hugging the coast on a track. Quite a few tracks down to the beach, all worth checking out again – when the weather is better. Camped at 13 mile beach camp not too far east of Hopetoun.
Wednesday 2^nd November
Hopetoun – delightful little retirement fishing village. Complete with tennis courts, bowls, golf etc. Quick restock of the fresh stuff and off again planning to continue west into Fitzgerald River National Park. Very disappointed to find the road closed due to road upgrade, Hmmmm, not impressed. Seemed the only option to head north to Ravensthorpe, then turn west for a bit then come into Fitzgerald NP that way. Drove past an op shop and as it had been a while since I had had a 'fix' insisted chauffeur oblige me and stop. Had a delightful chat with the lady running the place (who had been a local for ever) and after 'doing my bit for charity – another camping shirt for chauf – we moved on. After turning south along Quiss Rd found most of these roads into Fitzgerald NP also closed. Checked in at the Rangers place to learn the reason is mostly Die Back! Things don't look good for this Park. Plan B was to go to Bremer Bay. We arrived late afternoon, found good access to the beach, aired down, and set off to find a suitable spot to camp. Chose a track that went behind the dunes (in fact followed another vehicle and hoped they knew where they were going). Huh, course not, but anyway they led us to the inlet/lake. We decided to stay (they didn't). There were some very strange noises that night. Lots of night creatures, however, Djan felt very secure to me. Did learn from someone the next day that there are lots of snakes in the area, and before anyone goes skiing in the lake they whizz around in the boat a couple of times to scare them off. Glad I didn't know that before I went paddling.
Thursday 3^rd November
Chauf eager to explore all the tracks around the dunes behind the beach. I was a bit grim faced, but tried to be brave. Lots of tracks here and eventually took one that led us back down to the beach. Oh Oh, beach driving!! It was a long beach – admittedly beautiful, and even I spotted some good fishing channels. Got at least ¾ of the way to the headland, before it was deemed not quite so easy so turned into the dunes again to try to navigate a way to the headland and possible to the far side of the headland. We went up and down, round and round (some very interesting petrified trees – they must know how I feel) but we couldn't find a track through to the peppermint bush. Eventually backtracked (a long way) to the main track and got into the peppermint bush where we we did find a way down from the dunes we had been in. Although chauf attempted to get Max up and over the top section was just too soft, but it would be possible to descend. All duly noted for future trips (oh groan, I might have to throw a sickie). Pushed through to House Beach – more fishing shacks, this time with million dollar views. Ended up coming out at the far end of Peppermint Beach. Just perfect, one of those places post cards are made of, so after getting the 'keeni' on – yep there was a bit of blue sky and it was sheltered from the wind, we enjoyed a pleasant lunch. Chauf's hat went for a swim but I managed to race out and rescue it. Started walking back whilst chauf rebooted a crashed computer and after he picked me up we passed a Snick (variety of snake that is not a Monty) – slithering along right in the middle of the beach! Good grief, I had just been running around (full Monty style) thinking I was safe. Was rather unsettled. After a very scratchy overgrown track found ourselves back at the far end of the beach that we had started out on in the morning. Got to within about 20 metres of the stretch that chauf had earlier deemed too risky to take when he put his foot down and before I could hop out we were in the thick of it. Got half way, before the incline of the beach and the 'softness' got a hold of us. I fell out of the cab, thinking I was going to have heart failure and looked up to see the blacked clouds approaching from behind. Those Maxtrax came down so quickly and I was busy scooping out any wheel that chauf wasn't attacking. A further air down and Max grabbed a hold of the trax and shot forward a few metres. The incline of the beach needed one more 'reset' of the trax and then we were back on previously navigated beach. Managed to tie everything back down and the black clouds had stayed put. Decided the caravan park might be the better option tonight as by this stage there were 'severe' weather warnings. We sat out the storm on the top of the hill over looking Bremer Bay from the safety of the 'local' enjoying a couple of coldies and treated ourselves to a pizza. By the time we opened up the camper the worst of the storm had passed.
Wednesday 4^th November
The reception of the CP hadn't been as lucky as us and I found them still trying to dry out and repair the roof and guttering that hadn't been able to cope with the previous night's downpour. We checked out Point Henry and its fabulous beaches before starting to turn north (and head home). Wasn't long before we were in the farming land of the south. The weather still ominous and only parts of the Stirling Ranges were visible. We got to Wagin mid afternoon where we surprised the socks off our old Kalamunda neighbours. They have been running the Wagin Motel and keeps Sharon and daughter Bec rushed off their feet. After a quick cup of tea and instructions where we could park our camper for the night we left them to finish 'the rooms' but not before I was delighted to discover that I am not the only person who is allergic to beach driving and some of the more challenging 4x4 tracks. Oh the joy, I am not alone. Geoff found us later that evening – fully attired in our passion killers (camping sleepware). But we were so busy catching up over a beer I don't think he noticed. He left a while later having invited us to breakfast. We had actually parked at the show grounds, underneath the roof of the goat shed .
Thursday 5^th November
A bit disappointed it hadn't rained during the night, as we were parked up under the shed roof, but never mind. We were treated to a lovely cooked breakfast at the Wagin Motel, thanks Sharon. If anyone is looking for a room to break the journey on the trip south this place comes highly recommended. These lovely people had work to do so after being shown around Geoff's caravan we hit the road for the last leg of this trip to head home. Not before checking out one of our favourite breweries Brew 42. Two treats in one day – well, why not it was our 30^th Wedding Anniversary.



And that folks, is the end of the trip. We hope you have enjoyed following us on this adventure.
We hope we didn't scare any of you off from 'Getting out there' and seeing this fabulous country we have the great fortune to live in
Until Big Trip No2, where we hope to fill in some of the many gaps we left, keep safe and healthy.

26th October to 29th October

Wednesday 26h October
A cold morning, but dry and overcast. Continued on the longest 'straight' road until coming to Balladonia RH. Known for the Skylab re-entry bits. Small museum there, quite interesting. They had no info on the Balladonia Track (south to Israelite Bay) which could have been a short cut for us and as there had been a lot of rain and storms forecast we played it safe and headed into Norseman. The Fraser Ranges just to the East of Norseman were beautiful and I was reminded of how unique the WA bush/forests are. Just love those trees. Eventually found The Pub in Norseman, It was rather depressing and had to go over the road to get a take away – at least we were allowed to bring it back to eat with a beer. Forecasts for storms and hail between Canarvon and Lancelin inland to Souhern Cross so we decided to head souh anyway. Michael had to go home so we said our goodbyes and went our separate ways. Glen had told me of another of his little 'gems'. He is a mine of information when it comes to bush camping so we decided to check out this latest recommendation. About an hour south west of Norseman, but at least 50km of bumpy track. When we eventually spotted Peak Charles it was shrouded in a black rain cloud. Oh well, it will pass, and too far to go back at this stage. Was quite a statement of Syenite Rock (like granite but with less quartz). Managed to open up Djan in a break from the weather and grabbed a few snacks and drinks out of the fridge before taking shelter inside. Buckets of water. By the time it eased up again I had eaten too much cheese and biscuits to be bothered with cooking, besides I had found a packet of crisps inside and my bottle of ginger wine (what a combination) but still better than standing outside in the damp and cold to cook dinner. I think chauffeur would have appreciated a hot meal and about an hour later I wished I had made the effort. Oh well, we'd live. As we lay in bed with grumbling tummies we comforted ourselves with the thought of a cooked breakfast.
Thursday 27^th October
Bright blue skies, camped beside the magnificent outcrop of 651 metres of Peak Charles we were delighted, so were the flies – think they had been breeding like rabbits – worse than Tractor Beach in SA – even chauffeur resorted to putting on the bridal veil (fly net). Decided the Peak had to be climbed and as a few clouds had started drifting over quickly packed up and set off for he climb with rain jackets in tow. The views were worth putting up with wearing nets. Looking down into the campsite, Max and Djan looked very small surrounded by thousands of miles of bush and scrub – oh yes not forgetting the flies! Chauffeur had a dizzy spell, so we had to sit down and rest for a while – it will be a doctors check up for him when we get back. Stubborn as a donkey he insisted on continuing, which we did for a while, it was becoming more and more difficult to find the markers of the trail. We reached a point where I said no more, but the donkey continued without me taking with him the car keys. I decided it was too cold standing around near the top and started heading down. That is until I couldn't find the next marker so had to sit down and wait. Fortunately not for too long. Chauffeur had decided that the next part of the climb was too dangerous as the water running off the rock made things very slippery. We had to take shelter under a ledge at one point to let a heavy shower pass and several sections after that we had to squat down on our haunches and just let ourselves slide. Made sure chauffeur was infront of me so I could have a softer landing if things got out of control. By the time we reached the bottom we were ravenous and so were the flies. Bacon and eggs would have to wait. Trying to take a short cut back to the Coolgardie Esperance Highway we came to a sign “Track Impassable – sandy and boggy sections”. Bugger, that is the worse thing chauffeur needs to see, it is like a red rag to a bull. On we pushed – after I had declared I would not be helping if we got stuck. Of course we did get through, eventually. Plenty of boggy puddles to larger stretches of water crossings, but Max didn't hesitate once, he ploughed through without missing a beat. Phew! Just before the mainroad chauffeur aired up the tyres whilst I cooked us up a feast. Tummies feeling a lot happier we cruised down to Esperance. Haven't been here since the early 80's. The usual ports of call – info centre and groceries. Went out to Orleans Bay to check it out and stay the night. Fortunately for us with it being a long weekend there was space (only for Thursday though). Wasn't that impressed with the CP, although the coast is lovely.
Friday 28^th October
We had a mud map of all the DEC and Shire beaches and campsites so we set off to explore as many as possible. Made a mistake taking Merivale road instead of Fisheries thinking it was slightly shorter, well it is, but the condition of the road didn't make up for it. We went down that many tracks, and the beaches all just beautiful, it becomes a bit of a blurr. We ended up staying at Seal Cove. Very sheltered, nice level clearings, no flies, but a bit of a walk to the beach where chauffeur discovered the fish weren't hungry.
Saturday 29^th October
Checked out the tracks to either side of our camp. Definitely worth a revisit. Chatted to a lovely lady fishing who wasn't having any luck either. Whilst she and I were having a nattter Malcolm politely 'borrowed' her rod to see if he could tempt a salmon onto her lure. I was very impressed to learn this lady had been chased down by the ranger to be flown back to Perth to meet our “Lizzie”. She is the author and illustrator of a book that was presented to the Royals and got to speak to them in person, a painter of wildflowers. Chauffeur had no luck with the rod so handed it back and we headed East to Israelite Bay. I have often looked at this place on maps and was very curious about it. Now we're here I have to say I'm a bit disappointed. What a treck to get here. Horrible track, bit of getting muddled around the lake area and discovering a rabbit warren of tracks once we got to the coast. It must have been a good 2 hours to do 60kms. The beach is nothing to write home about, lots and lots of seaweed. There is a huge telegraph station ruin, which is interesting. Will stay the night as it is a bit late in the day to make the return comfortably in daylight – plus being a long weekend it might be hard to find a bush camp between here and Esperance. Guess what – the flies have followed us.

Tuesday 18th October to Tuesday 25th October

Tuesday 18^th October
Last night, relaxing around the fire, with full tummies I spotted a 'shooting star', alias satellite. The boys didn't believe me, where, I can't see it they claimed. No sooner had I pointed it out, when I saw another one. Blow me down I just sat down again when there was another one. Within minutes chauffeur's eyes acclimatised and he spotted one. Michael, determined not to be outdone, started concentrating and sure enough within 5 minutes we had seen 5! All going in similar directions, west to east, varying slightly on the northward track. A nice morning and we had more tracks to explore on the southern part of the peninsula. Pottering around we got to Spectacular Beach. It certainly was, and even though nothing attached itself to chauffeur's lure we could hardly be disappointed. Was getting a bit worried as we hadn't seen our hitchiker for a day or so – please don't let him be floating upside down in our water tank. We can't help ourselves checking out our water bottles when we refill them for any 'floaties' and checking the taste for 'extra' flavours! Eventually we had to press on and leave the beach. Whilst lunching I heard cries from chauffeur – he could see Kermit's feet. We all charged round to the side and chauffeur managed to get a piece of wire in behind our little buddie and encouraged him to jump out. Once safely on my hand Michael declared him to be a baby Cane Toad!! Hmmm, must google that one and see what they look like. Anyway, Coffin Bay, didn't have any rivers so we thought we had better keep him with us for a tad longer, so he was lovingly given some of his familiar water and put in our foot bucket. Checked out a few more beaches and enviously watched a few other keen fishermen and we decided to set up camp behind some dunes. Chauffeur did manage to lure us a nice feed so at least he didn't have to sulk.
Wednesday 19^th October
Up and on the road early as we weren't really in a 'legal' spot. Headed back into the delightful little village of Coffin Bay itself and had morno's beside the jetty. Talking to a 'local' she confirmed it is a sleepy little village of about 300 for most of the year until the summer when it swells to about 3000. Up the road about 150 Kms to Elliston with the hope of a nice fish lunch. What a disappointment. No where to buy seafood other than in the pub. So we ordered a seafood platter and after a bit of discussion decided it wasn't worth eating and politely told the kitchen that it was one of the worst bits of fish we had eaten. They did the right thing and gave us our money back. If I had a business, I would want to know. Over the road to the bakery and it wasn't much better. Another slog up the road and we camped at Tractor Beach (Camp 6 bush camp). Beach very weedy (with old rusted wreck of a tractor at side of track) and more flies than our camp last year with Glen at Murchison. Now Glen would probably find that hard to believe (that there could be more flies). Not only that there were very thirsty bees. So dinner was a bit of a race – didn't feel like sharing. Found a scorpion under my chair. It rained quite heavily during the night.
Thursday 20^th October
Packed up a wet camper, can't complain, don't have to do it very often. Streaky Bay for morno's. It was a record day – only 39Km covered. Nice little town – tick of approval from me as it had an op shop so I could do my charity bit for the town. Found some great shorts on the kids rack. Checked into the CP right on the beach and as we pulled up fish were jumping out of the water. Chauffeur jumped out of the car and got rigged up. I set up Djan and busied myself with the domestics. Half of WA is here – chatted to a Nannup lady in the laundry. Conversed with a couple from Dudley Park later on – is there anyone left over in the West? We walked the kilometer along the foreshore into town to check out the pub that had come with high recommendations from Trevor. We were impressed to find that 2 beers and a glass of wine in happy hour came to $11. Made sure we got another round in before we went through to the bistro. Did well there as well, sharing a plate of 3 fillets of whiting (we didn't need to return this lot to the kitchen). The salad bar and hot vegetables caused me a problem through – pigged out and literally waddled back to camp. Don't know how chauffeur and Michael managed to squeeze in a serve of Sticky Date Put as well. Found myself listening to a new bird call during the night. Most unusual to hear birds at night, and this one kept going all night. Forgot to mention, Michael had emailed a friend who knew about 'birds' and told him about chauffeur 's Vol-au-vent bird. He emailed back with an identical recording – it is called a Peaceful Dove - you know what – it is not peaceful at 4:30am!!
Friday 21^st October
Decided we should have a coffee in the bakery before we left town. They had the largest lamingtons I had ever seen! Lady in there asked me if I was English as I sounded like the Queen!!!!! Chauffeur suggested Michael check out the local 'electronics' shop, to see if he could upgrade his radio from 40 to 80 stations. The grumpy old man in there soon warmed up when he realised he had a captive audience and he proceeded to tell 'my lads' all the details of the lightening strike the town's mast had received a few weeks ago – we had heard about it on the radio. I pottered back up to the op shop to see if the little silicone dish was still there. Yep, it was mine (think it might be the perfect size to make my sun dried tomatoe and cashew pate) and I trotted back down the road to rescue the boys. Up the road on the seafood trail still to Smoky Bay. Found the oyster sheds and purchased a couple of dozen fresh from the baskets, just beached that morning. Got set up at a picnic table, poured out some wine and turned round to look for chauffeur. No where to be found. Well there was this black hulk stood next to us – it was chauffeur covered in a blanket of the biggest mozzies I have ever seen – they must have emigrated from Mandurah – and grown on the way. Picked every thing up and trapsed over the road onto the beach. Our only threat there were 3 pelicans! The boys knuckled down to some serious shucking, the 'master' giving Michael a lesson. In no time I had the bread sliced, buttered, lemon cut and we were hoeing in – the pelicans eyeing us hungrily – they had no chance. Being gluttons we continued on to Ceduna. Found a CP right behind the local pub ( seafood restaurant) and made the best of the happy hour again whilst chatting to a very nice kiwi couple who kept chauffeur company whilst the rugby was on the big screen. Food again delicious. Whilst supping some of Michael's Penfold's Port in Djan (the boys on the chairs and me perched up on the bed) checked out the forecast for the next few days. Not good at all – storms and rain for the next few days. So be it.
Saturday 22^nd October
Not exactly sun shining but no rain, and not cold so we pressed on to Fowler's Bay. Bit of an ordinary drive through farmland. The odd tiny little one room stone church dotted around. Got down to Fowlers and enquired (as you do) at the kiosk. The kiosk lady also sounded like the Queen and was very helpful. Yes, the fishing was good, her 'boys' had just caught a good feed, so with instructions to stay 'high' on the beach – as the flat stuff is not so hard (lots of seaweed underneath) we were off. Decided to short cut over the dunes (just to keep Michael happy). It sure did – he thought they were wonderful. I concentrated on my Sudoko – some of the angles didn't agree with me, even though it was very picturesque. The beach scored high on the WOW factor although there was haze on the horizon. Soon spotted some young lads with those rod things in their hands and we proceeded to watch them reel in a very good sized salmon. That was it, chauffeur was out of the car and the race was on to get rigged up. I set about organising some lunch. Unfortunately the 'new' braided line chauffeur bought (on special at Anaconda) maybe is not so good. On casting out his new lure the line snapped – don't think this was the first time. Seem to remember a few grumbles about the seaguls stealing his bate, and losing his only lure when he had walked a mile from the car. By the time he was set up again the tide had changed and nothing was biting. In the meantime Michael and gone for a sticky beak further along the beach to check out our camping spot. Didn't take long before he radioed me saying there was a vehicle and trailer bogged up to the axles. He was going in to help. After much digging and laying down the maxtrax he radioed to say he was coming back to borrow ours. I went off to inform chauffeur of the events. We were just about to call back to say we would come down to help as well, when Michael told us they were out and he was continuing. We followed shortly ,for 6km until beach ran out and we turned into the dunes and chose a reasonably close campsite (so that chauffeur could walk his rods down to the surf:) The mist really closed in to a pea souper, quite eerie, but we were alone and it was very peaceful. The fishing was not successful, but the entertainment from the seals was good – it is obviously a great game for them to steal the bait. Fortunately they didn't get hooked. Skies getting darker.
Sunday 23^rd October
Quite heavy rain during the night. Chauffeur had a good skid in the mud whilst trotting off to find a bush. Managed to decamp before the skies opened. After all the bad forecasts we were still waiting for the storms. So we were off across the Nullarbor. Still plenty of trees – weather threatening here and there. Called in to the Head of Australian Bight. Quite a special place, cliffs to the West and sand dunes to the East. Two southern right whales played with their calves just below the viewing platforms. The wind threatened to lift me off my feet as I struggled to make lunch. With the quarantine checkpoint coming up at the border I was gobbling up our fruit and veges, no way was I going to get anything taken off me and the thought of camping there whilst we ate everything didn't appeal either. Our Camps 6 book has been such a great help and we had 'earmarked' a couple of places to pull up for the night away from the Eyre Highway. The first one proved satisfactory and although there were already a couple of vans there, there was plenty of space. Had a good chat with the 'neighbours' chauffeur discreetly enquiring if they had satellite (Rugby final on). Funnily enough they voted the Streaky Bay Bakery the best lamington makers (the large ones I had spied). Unfortunately they didn't have satellite but we didn't go without entertainment. The forecast storms were on the horizon. OMG – I thought those black rolling storm clouds on the Hollywood movies were 'engineered'. Guess what, they look just like that in real life. Ominous is an understatement. We raced around packing up the kitchen and getting 'battened down' (as my dear dad would have said). Fortunately I had already cooked up all the veges that we couldn't eat tomorrow, and got them ready to freeze. These black demonic clouds rolled over the top of us, all the boys madly photographing, big ooohs and aaahs – I heard the caravaners laughing and joking “we're all going to die”!! It wouldn't have been difficult to be scared, perched up on the cliff with the wind gusting around. At one point I went to check on Michael and found him sitting at the top of the steps of his roof topper holding on the the fly. Wasn't long before the lightening started and then we were really impressed. Chauffeur tucked himself up in the car watching the show and listening to the All Blacks narrowly beat the French. I was content to tuck up under the doona with my new book.
Monday 24^th October
Wind, it hadn't stopped. If it did, it was only momentarily, then I would hear Michael's fly flapping and 2 seconds later it would buffet us around. Although our Djan seems to hold up really well, it is still noisy and I don't think any of us got much sleep. By the time we got up, someone had to, the pee pot was full, Michael had already decamped and was sitting in the cab of his Triton. I had a rather unleisurely coffee, whilst packing up and we managed to get on the move before any major rain hit us again. We pulled in at most of the photographic stops, but unfortunately the low light conditions weren't the best. Just before the quarantine border I chopped up the last of the salad for lunch – wasn't hungry enough to eat just yet, so put it in a snap lock with the intention to eat it at the border if I wasn't allowed to bring it through. I was lucky the 'inspector' said it was fine – Michael had his unpeeled – unprepped salad taken away! Stopped at the Mundrabilla Roady for a Coldy, but we were too cold, so pressed on. By the time we got to Madura we had warmed up enough. The manager was obviously a local and had quite a bit of info about the tracks and caves, so Cocklebiddy cave is on the agenda for tomorrow after Eyre Bird Sanctuary. Found a little clearing off the track down to the Bird Sanctuary for the night. Chauffeur decanting some fuel from the auxillary. The prices over the Nullabor are close to $2 a litre.
Tuesday 25^th October
After all the morning chores completed, we set off for the Ayre Bird Observatory. Twelve Kms from the Ob all says said to de-air, etc etc. Having done so we also obeyed the 'engage low, steep descent'. Wouldn't have been classed steep by our club, didn't even worry me, the bush was nice and the track very comfortable. Greeted 9 km at the end of the track by Derek and Sue, the volunteers. What an interesting place. For a $10 vehicle entry it was worth every cent. That included coffee/tea and cake (I even got fruit in lieu – that will always impress me). The observatory was the original telegraph station and Derek proceeded to give us such an informative tour of the place plus extra historical information we were delighted. The dunny (complete with There's a dugite in the dunny down in Eyre poem on the wall) was the cleanest I have ever had to use – couldn't find the dugite though. After a thorough tour of their museum, library and lots of local passing on of all the flora/fauna – what the volunteers do (they are also the local meteorological station as well) we had to press on. Took the track down to the beach, complete with ship wreck, but found the beach far too weedy to proceed to turned back and headed back to Cocklebiddy. What a great name that is. There was a cave we had to explore. Find it we did, explore it we didn't. Well not too far. It is one of those scare underwater/diving type of caves. It had been explored for over 6km (underwater!!!) how crazy is that. There had been a movie filmed there. Michael climbed down quite aways, but fortunately it was one of those rare occasions when chauffeur obeyed me and 'stayed put'. It had been quite a day. After lots of relatively boring road it was rather nice. Spent the evening camped not far off the road – along the longest straightest stretch of road down under. We were timing how long it took from when you could first see the glow of headlights down the road until when the truck passed you. It was minutes – if they were travelling at 100km/hr that would have been about 23 km. Ho hum, the things you do camping in the outback. Forecast pretty dismal. A very cold windy night and some heavy rain.

Sunday 16th October - Monday 17th October

Sunday 16^th October
Woke up to a clear brisk morning, looks promising – lots of blue. It is amazing how much attention you pay to the weather when you are camping. We had some promising sand dunes to traverse today. Chauffeur led the way and soon we were on the other side of the headland. Oh my, what a wow. Pounding waves, spraying up the cliffs – 180 deg views, beautiful colours. Lots of photos etc. etc. We found the track into the dunes, and the men became boys. It really was lovely, couldn't wait to tell Benny, and hopefully he will make it here soon. Dunes much better than Yeagerup and even Michael was impressed even after his trip over Big Red and The Simpson. Perfect picnic spot came up for lunch so we sat digesting our sustenance – feasting our eyes at the same time. Moved on and around the corner found an even better vista. Eventually we came to the end and we headed back to Port Lincoln to pick up a few fresh veges and fuel. Now we were headed to the Western End of the peninsula – Coffin Bay NP, 50 Km west of P Lincoln. We drove out deciding we were very impressed with this corner of Australia and will need to do a re-visit (wonder if a house swap is possible?) Then Coffin Bay blew us away – chocolate box seaside village. Paid our dues at the NP entrance, aired down and we were away. The info office lady had told us a couple of parts of the track were only passable at low tide but there was a campsite before then. Although only 28km in it took us quite a while and even though we possibly could have caught the tide right it was time for a sundowner so we set up camp at Black Springs. The light was right, the wind right, the temperature right – and the beer was cold – perfect! Cheers! Around the fire (first one in ages) I decided I would try to cook up a lamb shanks camp oven dinner tomorrow! You should have seen Michael's eyes light up.
Monday 17^th October
The wind is up – coming from the north ish, could possibly mean the south side of the peninsula could be pleasant (apparently a good salmon hole). Meandered further down the peninsula, a mixture or rocky limestone (uncomfortable for the passenger) a few boggy bits or soft sand. At one point the track was dug out between some dunes making the sides quite steep and only just wide enough to drive through. I became aware of feathers outside chauffeur's window – it would seem, in it's dash to get in front of us it slid down the side of this cut out and into the side of Dmax. Fortunately, no one was the worse for wear, although I don't know who got the biggest surprise. Why is it that these silly birds run towards you and then like to stay in front of you – I can just him them calling “come on, this way, this way!” Further on we rounded a corner and in the middle of this boggy puddle was a very short emu. All we could see above the bog was the top half of the emu's legs. Chauffeur was just contemplating just how deep this bog could be when the emu stood up and ran off (yes down the track in front of us :) Heh, it was just having a visit to the local 'spa'. How much do we pay for a 'rejuvinating' mineral rich mud bath? Silly me I could just hold up the traffic and have a little lay down in one of these pools. All the scenery lovely and after chauffeur shooed off a million birds sunning themselves on a rock cast in his lure. Seems the rock was better off as a sun bed than a fishing ledge so we moved on again. This drive out here had inncluded a km long beach run, only possible at low tide. It was beautiful – the water calm, with the palesest shades of aqua through to deep blue, white dunes – I was in heaven (oh yes, the sand was fairly firm as well – chauffeur giving me a lesson – if you free coast along for a ways after you take foot off pedal you're on terra firma). Finding a nice camp spot we settled 'in' for the afternoon. It was a record setting day – we had only travelled 29km!!!! Chauffeur up to his usual top standard, had collected firewood and set the foundations for our camp oven fire. Whilst he went off to 'lose some lures' I was left in charge of maintaining this fire and keeping the camp oven (bedouurie) simmering with our lamb shank rogan josh. Michael reckoned it was good enough to reproduce at the annual Ninghan cook off! That was a complement as some of the food produced over that long weekend is excellent. Forecast for tomorrow is fantastic!

Thursday 6th October to Saturday 15th October

Thursday 6^th October
We had bush camped at the Merna Mora Station where they have a self-drive 4x4 ($45) but it had rained during the night at the track was closed so we decided to head north to check our Lake Eyre. Pulled in (for morno's) at the old townsite of Beltana. Same old story, had been a bustling town (with railway station) but the station had been moved to Leigh Creek because of the coal mine (typical) so now it was all but a ghost town. Some very interesting old buildings, one of them being a gallery. The resident artist is one of the 3 people still living in the town. She was quite a character and talented with the paintbrush. The town was soon to nearly double in size as her grandaughter and husband were moving back – he was going to run some sort of computer business from there. Next 'up the road' was Leigh Creek, restocked the fridge and the fuel tank. Quite an interesting set up here, felt like a Lego Town. The Mine company had moved the town 8 km down the road as it was in the way of the mine!!! So they had set up this fabricated little townsite – neat and tidy and sticking out like a sore thumb in amongst the historical buildings of the other little townships. Next town, Maree – where the New Ghan goes through – and a quick refreshment at the old pub (in the Aussie Bush Pubs book). The grumpy old bugger behind the bar eventually decided he would serve us! So we drank it down and pushed on for the last leg up to Lake Eyre campsite which is on a station 44km south of the lake and called Muloorina. A lovely little spot with a small natural hot spring, a well reeded watering hole and lots of birds. I was too tired to check out this hot spring – can't believe I didn't have the energy to even look at it, but chauffeur suggested maybe we could check it out tomorrow after visiting Lake Eyre.
Friday 7^th October
Up early to check out this amazing Lake. Quite a rough trip, lots of corrugations. Soon we were driving past the northern tip of Lake Eyre South. Wasn't sure if the water we could see was a mirage – chauffeur assured me it was the real stuff. Finally we were there. You have to park a way from the lake and there is a short walk up over a dune. Up we went, chatting to some interesting people on the way up who were heading over to Kalgoorlie to visit family. Guess what, no water. Well none that you could see. A bit disappointing, but I still found it thrilling to think I was there (have wanted to go for ages). We walked out on the salt flats (a bit Lake Bollardish, where were the statues) until it got too boggy, obviously hadn't been very long since there had been water. I could have kicked myself for not bringing a plastic bag to collect some salt. I had to make do with what I could carry in a tissue! Back at the carpark got chatting to another group of travellers who had an assortment of vehicles and campers – it is always interesting to see other people's set up, there are always ideas to be gleaned. Heading back southbound again, chauffeur wasn't interested in another night in the campground, so I had to console myself that I had missed out on a dip in the hot spring. We stopped in Marree again this time checking out the Lake Eyre Yacht Club!! WOW, what an interesting place – they really to sail on the lake. Some amazing photos, a great web page which I will check out again in the future. Learned that one part of the lake recently had 6 metres of water. Stayed at the Leigh Creek caravan park, it was very pleasant and got my tick of approval. Caught up with the washing – woo hoo, clean undies!
Saturday 9^th October
Another early start as chauffeur had a bee in his bonnet – this self-drive 4x4 back at Merna Mora was beckoning and apparently we needed to be there for 10:00. We made it and yes it was open. With key in hand, and page of directions and information we set off. It was a nice easy start (for me – nothing too scary) and with clear skies looked to be a promising day. We weren't disappointed. Well chauffeur did say the track wasn't challenging enough. Even I will admit it wasn't difficult (as in wash-outs etc) but there were some steep bits, managed to close my eyes and not get out of the vehicle. The scenery and views were fabulous. Although it seems wrong to pay to drive a 4x4 track, it was worth it, we had a lovely day. Couldn't help thinking if Linda and Ian had been on the trip as well, she might not have been too happy some of the inclines. I wanted to go through the Brachina Gorge again as the day we had driven through it had been raining. It was quite a long round trip and have to admit I was a little disappointed. Not sure if it is just more interesting driving south to north or if what we had seen earlier in the morning and desensitised us. Oh well, it was all good and we started heading towards Port Augusta. The wheel squeal was becoming unbearable and chauffeur had booked Dmax in again to having the bearings looked at again on Tuesday. Found a bush camp to the East of Hawker and managed to set up before it started raining.
Sunday 10^th October
Didn't get too wet during the night, but not worried as Jan seems to be well and truly water tight. Stopped for lunch at some old ruins, Kenyaka. I couldn't believe my eyes as we crested this rise to look down on some ruins of what looked like a small town. The stone work in these buildings would impress most brickies. Hard to believe it had been left to ruins. Built in the 1850's had at one time been populated by 70 people. Some Earl from Scotland started a station there only to be drowned a year later in a flash flood of the creek. Taken over by another family the station failed 15 years later due to drought! Watched a galah feeding its chicks - what a noise. Chatting to someone else in the carpark learnt of another bush camp at Hancocks Lookout just 40km south east of Port Augusta. Found our way there and eventually set up on a 'flattish' clearing overlooking the Spencer Gulf. Didn't look that awsome due to the bad weather. Finding a flat spot is always the most difficult part of setting up camp. Might take us 15 minutes getting the car level (usually with much disagreement going on – even with the 'tilt metre' app on the Iphone). I refuse to sleep with my feet higher than my head and one night I had rotated 180 deg in bed much to the annoyance of chauffeur who refused to rotate. I'm sure my feet weren't that stinky, but chauffeur didn't get a good night's sleep – his feet hadn't bothered me despite them being cold. Anyway we sat down to dinner overlooking the Spencer Gulf when it happened. The sun dropped through the clouds as it was setting and the water lit up. Chauffeur was up in a flash (ha ha, yes with camera in hand). It just kept getting better the lower the sun got. All dinner forgotten, we drank in the marvellous colours.
Monday 11^th October
Very cold morning, we drove down to Port Augusta. After giving Dmax a much needed de-mudding (we found the car washes have allotted bays for demudding) it must be a common problem in this area, we then had to check out one of those places – yes a CP. Picked one on the banks of the foreshore but not too far from town. Didn't spot the railway line on the opposite side of the water. After catching up with the washing again, treated ourselves to dinner out and returned to the caravan park kitchen for a nightcap and game of cribbage. This place is like a prison, the perimeter fence is topped with barbed wire and the gate is locked at 9:30pm, you have to request a key if you are going to be later. There were notices everywhere to lock up everything. After having walke around the town in the afternoon we could understand why. It really is not a very nice town, despite having lots of history and lovely historical buildings, but there is just no atmosphere, and having piped music in the streets is a bit worrying. No restaurants, tempting bakeries etc. Anyway, about 9.00 pm I thought I heard a roll of thunder. After a minute I was doubting it and was looking around for the source of the noise – Trains! - coal trains – over 2km long. It takes a good half hour for all the carriages to get rolling. All I can say is there was more than one train – should have chosen the CP closer to the highway, I just can't win.
Tuesday 11^th October
Chauffeur dropped Dmax off at Isuzu to have it's feet looked at and came back with a courtesy car – a commodore looking thing. Was entertained whilst chauffeur tried his best to imitate a 'local' driving into town. Topped up again at Woolies and had time to wash all the veges/fruit and pack them in the fridge properly. Dmax was de-squealed and we set about remounting Djan on to the tray. We are getting the hang of this -albeit slowly. Michael finally caught up with us and we had a great evening catching up on each others travels.
Wednesday 12^th October
Getting ready to set off I went to the kitchen to fill the flask whilst chauffeur topped Djan up with water. He came into the kitchen 15 minutes later with a worried look on his face – the news was he thought we had a 'stowaway', a hitchhiker no less. To my puzzled expression he explained that when he opened the water filling cap in Djan he saw something green. Thinking it might be some nasty algae stuff he touched it with his finger and it moved. Having realised he had actually seen a couple of eyes peeking at him over the lip the the filler came to the conclusion it must be a frog. Where had it come from – how did it manage to get there and had he damaged it by poking it?? Oh well, nothing we can do about it now so Eyre Peninsula here we come. This is the seafood capital of Australia, so after a bit of a sticky beak around Whyalla we lunched at Barnacle Bills. It was so so, but filled a big hole. But left us very thirsty. Further down the coast at Cowell we checked out some local oysters, served with a crisp white wine. Now that hit the spot and Michael not being satisfied had to go back for seconds. Spent the afternoon leisurely checking out every track down to the beaches, and did lots of ooing and aaahing – blue skies, rolling hills it was delightful. Camped at Cape Hardy and found some respite from the wind and had a thoroughly good time. Opened up the filler cap again and sure enough there is our little Kermie! Chauffeur chats to him everytime he walks past. How do you tempt a frog to come out of your water tank? What if it dies in there? Are we drinking froggie wee, or worse poop! Does it get car sick with all the swilling around it must get? There are a lot of flies around so I suggested putting a piece of meat near to the filler cap to tempt the flies which in turn might tempt our Kermie out – surely it must be hungry by now – can't help singing the song “I know an old lady, who swallowed a fly (to catch a …. etc.)
Thursday 13^th October
A bit of gusty rain during the night had Michael up putting down his awning. Quite different travelling now, very slow and leisurely. More delightful coastal views. The days are blurring, might have to fill this in later (after checking the details with him who knows it all – as far as maps and roads are concerned :) Think I might know where we picked up our hitchhiker. Whilst filling up from The Church on a Corner in Tibooburra I attached the water hose before letting the tap run a bit – now if I was a frog I would live up the spout of a water tap. Kermie still looking out the tank at us.
Friday 14^th October
Arrived in Port Lincoln and checked out the details of the National Park in the info centre. Bought another sticker for my collection (am beginning to run out of space on the toolbox door). Sorted out where we wanted to go – a bit complicated as keys and deposits are involved) but also there are storm warnings on the radio. Don't really want to go to the 'expensive' part of the park to be disappointed by lack of views due to the rain. Also it is the most exposed part of the coast, so warnings of hailstones were slightly daunting. Anyway found a sheltered spot in the NP peninsula, got prepared for an onslaught and slept peacefully through a very calm night – well I guess someone in SA got the storm, but we certainly didn't – no complaints here :) Kermie still decided the security of our water tank is its best option!
Saturday 15^th October
Continued to explore the NP. Walked some tracks first explored by Matthew Flinders and found another nice sheltered campsite close to the lighthouse. Weather looking a little more ominnous now, but chauffeur managed a couple of hours down the beach trying to tempt some piscatorial delight on to his lure. No luck, but the sunshine must have done him good. The water here is so clear and turquiose. I found myself a comfortable spot and settled down on the white sand with my book – it is such a hard life. Michael is back up at the lighthouse where the coverage is better so he can catch up on some 'work' – ugh wash my mouth out! An emu just ambled past me – got quite a shock – where is the camera? Maybe he can tempt our Kermie to come out.

Thursday 29 Sept - Wednesday 5th October

Thursday 29^th September
The wind hadn't stopped when we opened up last night so we 'snacked' on salad and cheese indoors, as we had also overly snacked on peanuts whilst waiting for a break in the weather before we 'opened up' Djan. The wind was strong and after we retired I couldn't help imagining what the nearby coolibah tree was doing – swaying too close in our direction, too late now, no way was chauffeur going to get up, put Djan down and move Max, better just get on and try to sleep. So morning arrived with no gum tree dropping a branch on us. Better still, blue skies, drove up the road and parked outside the Innamincka pub to secretly log on to their wifi and see if we had heard from Michael, check our email and download the latest weather. Still nothing opened up across the Simpson desert and it was no place to hang around (a bit disappointing really, even though it had been fun sheltering under the verandah of the pub yesterday during the storm) so we decided to go south to Tibooburra. It meant driving out to the Dig Tree again and then hanging a right towards NSW. By this stage I couldn't remember which State I was in. No, not 'State of Excitement', etc. The road started off ok, and then a few puddles started appearing. Hardly surprising considering the 'sky show' we had on Wednesday arvo. We could see recent tracks so knew someone was ahead of us. It was only an hour or so before we caught up with the culprits of the tracks. They were stopped just before some 'wet' stuff. Chauffeur hopped out and we introduced ourselves and before long we were in friendly convoy sharing thoughts over the radio. Ian and Linda (and son Jack) were from Sydney and obviously Linda and I had genes in common – slightly apprehensive about the 4x4 adventurous games some boys think are great fun. The poggy buddles, got bigger, and sloppier, slightly stickier and eventually our Max got so much gunck stuck on his tyres they didn't grip as much as they should and started spinning. By this stage Ian and chauffeur had built up enough comaradarie (my spell check is coming up but can't be bothered to try to sort it) going on within no time our new blue rope thing was out, along with a yellow strap thingy (Richard I hope you never read this – I know the boys were doing the right thing, but I can't put the right names to it). I knew I had shoes on my feet, but they were so encrusted with mud I couldn't see them. I was aware that the mud smelt quite different to NT mud – how observant I am!! Linda, who told me she was a nurse, jokingly told me she would have had pains in her chest if they had been alone. Dare I admit, that frequently happens to me even when we are on a club outing. Decided we would stop for lunch when we found a shady tree. An hour later, no shady tree, so it was lunch in the open. Ha, ha the wind was so brisk the sun was good. Yet again, our Djan instant kitchen impressed our fellow travellers. They had been camping with a rooftop tent (Linda and son) and Dad in the swag. Linda told me the wind last night was lifting her feet up in the rooftop and also had ripped the fly!!Hmm, no wonder I had been concerned about the tree near us. The rest of the afternoon flew by. Again the colours (with blue sky) were absolutely awesome. Some very pinky red sands and lots of pale olive grasses. We parted ways, exchanging contact details, as we stopped to camp just short of Tibooburra – Linda was hoping for a night under a proper roof after last nights stormy conditions. Camping at Olive Downs was quiet and pleasant. Another family pulled up a bit later, a few pleasant chats etc.
Friday 30^th September
Was aware early morning that there wasn't a dawn chorus (first time ever on this trip) but I could hear the chap in the camper trailer gently snoring. At one point chauffeur nudged me, huh couldn't he tell it was not me snoring but our neighbour? A while later (quite a while, it was daylight at this stage) I again heard our neighbour 'gently' snoring. I also became aware that I could hear the neighbouring 'camp' up and about and chauffeur was asking me how I could sleep whilst I was making so much noise! The cheek of it, it couldn't possibly have been me making that noise – I was awake!!! Have chuckled about this on and off all day. Chauffeur somehow – after putting up with all my sleeping acoustics proceeded to deload Dmax of at least 50Kg of excess weight – the mud he had collected yesterday. How someone can get a vehicle, Dmax and Djan, so clean with one cloth and only a couple of buckets of water absolutely amazes me. I was even more amazed when chauffeur moved Dmax and proceeded to 'sweep' the area clear of all the unloaded mud. We made it into Tibooburra without having to transfer fuel from the auxillary. We had done 925 km and fuelled up with 111 litres. The red light had only been on for 25 km! Have to take note of all these details – they will all be uploaded into chauffeur spread sheet later. The lady in the info centre was interested in our 'setup' and we soon found out she had met “Margy” the first Travelander owner we met on our travels back up in Cape York. Heading West again toward Cameron's Corner. This Corner shop sits on the border of Queensland, NSW and SA. Of course we had to have a beer, chin wag and buy the sticker, I am getting quite a collection now. This pub is in THE BOOK – Aussie Bush Pubs. Very Iconic and amongst other things we noticed the ceiling was covered in $5 and $10 notes. If you want to camp the night there it is $5 a vehicle. You have to get the note stuck into the ceiling without standing on a stool. The secret we discovered is you put a thumbtack through the note, followed by a coin, then twist the note around the coin and throw it up at the ceiling. The note sticks and the coin falls out. At the end of the year, the Corner Store owner takes all the money down and donates it to the Royal Flying Doctors – as he says, it is all they have out here if anything goes wrong – what good is health insurance if there are no doctors or hospitals? Quite an interesting fella – he himself had been flown out 2 weeks ago after a heart attack – just got back 'home' yesterday. In 2009they had collected $6000 but due to all the floods 2010 had only made $2000! We hit the road again. Had been told about the 'red flags' on the dunes marking poor conditions. Sure enough we found them, some of the dunes had some boggy soft patches on the other side – great to have the markers. Went as far as the Yellow Bus. It was a Camp 6 marked site – you got it – there was a double decker yellow bus. Love to know the history – looks like someone lived here for a while. Anyway, the more interesting thing is the grass fires around. The wind is awful so we cooked inside and can see several small grass fires, one of them quite close and we are down wind. However, the fires here don't seem to be as aggressive as we know them in WA. Another couple of vehicles have pulled up to camp for the night as well. Sitting here on the bed, being rocked around by the wind (we cooked inside because of the wind) but there is also a spattering of rain – could be an interesting night. The other vehicles are tenting it – quite a challeng getting them set up, has taken them ages. Oh I love my Djan.
Saturday 1^st October – Yellow Bus to Arkaroola
A few more people 'tourists' pulled in in the morning for photos and a chat and we eventually tucked Djan away and got back on the road again. Quite a nice track. Lots of burnt out areas, some still smoking. Got back to the Strzelecki Track and headed south, then diverting off passed Mt Hopeless. We were hoping to get to Arkaroola – home of the 'internationally-renowned Ridgetop Tour. It was lovely approaching the Gammon Ranges. They just stick up out of the plains. We arrived mid afternoon and 'checked in'. In our naieveity and enthusiasm we hadn't read between the lines. The Ridgetop Tour, was a tour only, not a tag along. Chauffeur was so disappointed. This was a big tourist magnet – I guess for city folks that need the 'outback' shown to them – without their creature comforts. There was 300 ha of bush camping so after paying our $18 for the night we went to find 'our bit of bush'. Unfortunately this 300 ha of bush is through a gorge alongside a creek bed. The toilets are at the start and then everyone drives further along the gorge to camp. This meant that a lot of people spread out in a long line. Therefore people driving back up to the toilets continually until late in the night. Also with a restaurant/bar up at reception I guess a lot of campers had partaken of these facilities – again too far to walk. First thing in the morning their helicopter tours took off. It was busier than Fremantle on a Saturday Night. Oh, you live and learn. However, we were able to drive their other numerous tracks, and whilst not ridgetop, they were lovely. Going back to the maps we found a place that looked a little quieter for this night's camp and not too far away. The driving through these 'Ranges' is quite different to anything else we have seen and thoroughly enjoyed it. Eventually finding our own 'spot' in a scenic clearing quite high up on the hills, but also sheltered. There were even some fireplaces, so for the first time in too long we had a fire to cook our dinner on.
Sunday 2^nd October Arkaroola – somewhere near Weetotla Gorge
We had a beautiful 'quiet' night – no traffic! Figured we had to make use of the fire again and had ourselves eggs and bacon. Setting off with full comfortable tummies little did we know what a lovely treat was in store for us. The track we had taken was a one-way, and the return journey was quite memorable. A few places were 4x4 (I reckon chauffeur would argue this point with me) but I'm writing this so it is my call :) Gill's lookout was awesome, with 360 deg views and some beautiful 'red' ridges. The track down again although steep (which is enough to set my muscles off) it was relatively smooth. I thoroughly enjoyed this drive. Stopping at another camping spot for morno's we got chatting to a couple from Canberra who were on a 5-day walk. Forget that, I can't think of many things worse. Fancy having to lug all your stuff around for 5 days – wouldn't be able to carry all the wine I would need – let along my mattress. All they had was a backpack each. If you can't have good food and alcohol on a camp – well what is the point!! Lunchtime saw us at Chambers Gorge. Just pulling up who should we park next to but none other than our travelling companions from the other day – Ian, Linda and son Jack. Well you would have thought we were lifetime friends. It was lovely – greeting with giant bear hugs was so welcoming. After chewing the fat we decided we would camp where they had been for the last couple of nights at Wirrealpa Station. They were staying in their shearers huts (as their roof top was splitting at the seams) but we would camp along side. What a treat, the family has been on this homestead for 130 years, and there were memorabilia galore. The old kitchen,, stone walled, old arga cooker, giant solid wooden tables and trestle benches. We burnt the midnight oil, sharing stories, chauffeur's inner kid coming out again when he spotted Jack's rugby ball. We haven't had such lovely company for a while.
Monday 3^rd October – Weetotla Gorge to Wirrealpa (And Tuesday, somewhere)
We have had such a lovely time, I seem to have lost a day. Sitting here on Wednesday 5^th Sept knowing what we did yesterday, which makes Tuesday, can't remember what happened on Monday. Oh well. I do know that despite the rain yesterday what we saw will rate as one of the high lights of the trip. In convoy again with Linda and Ian we drove to Wilpena Pound. This is the 'centre' of the Flinder's Ranges. A natural 'pound' in the mountains and quite delightful, unfortunately it is also a tourist magnet, but we managed set off to check out the Old Wilpena Station – the best preserved historical pastoral site in Australia. Guess what, we were the only ones there and it was incredible. The Red Gums, old buildings, information was just great. Hundreds of photos later and lunch we drove on through Brachina gorge. It was soo good, unfortunately with the rain the light wasn't the best, so we might have to go back on a brighter day. A beer later in the Parachilna Prairie Hotel, with the obligatory sticker. Later back at Wirrealpa Homestead in the Shearers Kitchen over a few more wines with Linda's infections laugh, Jack the non-stop chatterer (and encyclopiac memory for sports) and Ians singing made for another fine evening. Unfortunately, we had to eventually drag ourselves off to bed.
Wednesday 5^th October
Said our sad farewells to our newly found friends – some people still have to work! We waited a while to let Djan dry off a bit after the night's rain. Whilst sitting in the car typing up some blog Max (the dog) asked if it was safe to unplug his ears – don't worry Jack I gave him a good cuff, the cheeky little mongrel! Decamped and set off. Rain on the horizon and whilst at the info centre in Blinman were told the 4x4 drives (most of them anyway) were closed. But got a good mud map of some other places to visit. Went up to the Nuccaleena Mine ruins. Very interesting. Built in the 1860's it was incredible. The stone masons must have been quite industrious to erect so many houses, shops, smelter etc in such a short time in such an isolated spot. The chimney is huge and the stone work very impressive. Great place for a picnic. Back through Blinman. They have an annual camp oven cook off with up to 50 teams competing. Unfortunately we had missed it by a couple of days. Linda and Ian hadn't though and told us the tasting was great, they had a good feed. In the pub (where else to go on a rainy day) there were lots of photos of times past – loved the one of a couple of 'well dressed' ladies coming into town on a Sunday sat on the back of a camel back in 1907. Have decided to take a self-drive tour tomorrow, when hopefully the weather will be better.

Sunday 25th Sept -Wednesday 28th Sept

Sunday 25^th September
Woke up nice and dry – bet 'them lot' camped on the top of the mountain weren't, heh, heh. It would seem this is a popular place for breakfast, at least they weren't rangers! Chauffeur was hardly out of bed when 3 cars came down the road. Put Djan down, much to the amazement of the breakfasters, who had a lot of questions and queries. There was a rail track running past here and even a loop with a tunnel through one of the mountains. On hearing the train whistle chauffeur was up and running with the camera to take a photo!! Moving on, ever descending, unbelieving this beautiful countryside can continue for much longer – but it did. We were reminded continually of other locations around the world – from UK, NZ and Canada. Found another lookout, Governors Seat for mornos. Lots of warnings we were on the top of a cliff edge, the vista was awesome. Quite a historical place. Should that be “An historical” place? All good things have to come to an end and we eventually reached some flat stuff, but not long later, bypassing Warick, we saw a few gliders being towed. Pulling in for a bit of a sticky beak and another bite to eat (surely I have to gain a few pounds with all this eating we are doing?) we discovered there was a competition going on. Didn't discover what gliders compete against – height, length of time gliding?? However, it was interesting to watch all these gliders being towed up – didn't do much for my fear of heights! Told chauffeur sure I would do it – if he did (Heh, heh, he doesn't like planes without engines). We're definitely on the level ground now, and leaving the volcanic ranges behind. Camped beside a small river just past Inglewood (on the way to Goondiwindi). Chauffeur cast a few lures, and just before he gave up this poor Yellow Belly latched on. A good couple of pounds, so it was prepped and put in the fridge ready for dinner tomorrow. A few photos, duly emailed to some buddies, and chauffeur went to bed with a smile on his face. XXXX
Monday 26^th September
Fortunately the trucks thundering down the road only a few hundred metres away did stop during the night and we got some good shuteye – I bet chauffeur was dreaming of the bigger one that got away! Set off for Goondiwindi Found a delightful laundrette, as nice as ours in South Perth – with its own ironing lady. Stocked up, well tried to, but the fresh veges hadn't yet arrived, on well, plenty of meat. The delightful man in the info centre told me all about the flood levels in the area. Goondiwindi had been saved by its levee banks (only just) but others towns nearby hadn't, however, the cotton crop since the waters receded has been awesome. Up the road to St George, then pulled up for the night in the 'hamlet' of Bollon. A free camp alongside the creek. Checked out the local first for a 'pot' of beer where the publican was amazed that chauffeur had caught a yellow belly on a lure – apparently the locals can only catch them with yabbies! Nice camp, and even nicer yellow belly for dinner.
Tuesday 27^th Sept
Pushing on to Cunnamulla, landscape becoming rather boring. Very flat, not much too see. This road runs just north of NSW. It was approx 200km and the town also 'very flat', so after a quick lunch at the local cafe set off for another FLAT 200 km run to Thargominda. One of those 'hard' days, not much too see, lots of mileage to cover, on and on, but chauffeur keeps his foot on the pedal and we eventually get there. I am always amazed at these outback towns – WHY – are they there. Actually they usually have some very interesting history and this one certainly does. Its claim to fame being the 3^rd town in the world to have street lighting run by hydro electric power – London, Paris and one day later, Thargominda, nearly 100 years ago. After a sticky beak around the local info centre (was the hospital until 1976) we gave in and went to the local, dare I say it, caravan park. Now if they were all as nice as this one, I wouldn't give them such a bad rap. Saw photos of it a year ago when it was under water – all of this area seems to have suffered from the recent floods. Met some well travelled people who imparted some good info to chauffeur – basically the Simpson Desert is closed. We had heard bits and pieces, knew there were some bush fires around, but not sure of the extent and what roads were closed. To top it off, rain and thunderstorms were forecast. Chauffeur spent the evening googling the web and all the “Road” web sites, it would seem unlikely we would be able to travel the French track along the top of the Simpson Desert. Quick call with Michael – he was travelling down from Townsville, hopefully to meet up with us in Birdsville. Have to wait and see what tomorrow brings.
Wednesday 28^th September
Only a slight sprinkle or rain in the night but the horizon looks ominous and quite gutsy winds as we lowered Djan (did I mean gusty, well they were gutsy as well). Headed off to Innaminka. Now the landscape was more interesting, and varying. Basically scrub, rocky outcrops here and there and despite the dark skies the colours were quite dramatic, grey greens and some very red sands. The lady in the old hospital (info centre) had said if there was more than 10mm of rain during the night the 30km of dirt track could become boggy and become closed. Thargominga to Innamminka is nearly 400 km and to think that there was only one stretch of 30km gravel track was not enough to stop us going to check it out. Fortunately despite the black skies and what looked like a 'front' on the horizon the track was fine. Checked out the Dig Tree – this is the historic tree where some supplies were left buried for Burke and Wills, should they return from their trek north to find the North Coast (Gulf of Carpentaria). Turns out the men they left behind only left this camp 8 hours before B & W returned. Quite a tragic tale, but it would seem that Burke was a bit of a Scott, (Antarctic explorer) and made some careless (rather arrogant) mistakes. Only another 50km we ambled into Innaminka. I really had thought, after all the travel brochure write ups and info sheets, that it would have been a bit more substantial. The only thing substantial was the price of the beer and the amount of people doing what we were doing. Campers galore. However, we had one of the 'moments' of the trip. Halfway through our beer, and chauffeur chatting up the barmaid from Scotland ,the skies opened. Thunder and lightening, it was a true 'show'. The hard dirt everyone was parked on became slippery, sucky, clay (as we found out when we tried to get back to Max). The Innaminka Inn staff were full on digging trenches and a levee at the entrance to keep the water out. The ladies had more water on the floor than in the loo :) It was one of those great times when there is nothing you can do but have another beer and chat to everyone else in the same boat as you (ha ha, I didn't meant that) I think most of us would have seriously thought a boat might have been more useful than a tent at that stage :) Yes, I'm exagerating a bit, but it was interesting. As we were huddled under the old tin verandah one of the bar staff popped his head out to tell the manager (who was playing darts) that the sewage alarm was going off and there was no hot water. Chauffeur was chatting to a pilot (tourist flights over the area) and when the pilot said he might not be able to fly out and would probably be staying the night, I reminded him that he would be having a cold shower then. Eventually we decided that the skies looked a bit lighter and we had better brave it and try to find a dryish spot for the night. Slipping along we got chatting to another couple that had a similar set up to us (The Dogs House). It is a small world – turns out they know 'Darren' – who is the Travelander man. They were also from Woombye and knew Lynn Mabb (Bruce's sister who we stayed with whilst our Travelander was being 'waterproofed'). We eventually found somewhere to stop for the night. Had to reverse out of a track that was quickly becoming uncomfortably 'slippy, slimy, bog). But, we opened up and guess what – Yea, inside was dry!! There are still storms forecast for the night, but we might be lucky and miss them. If not, we will see how waterproof we are whilst opened up.

Thursday 22 - Sunday 25th Sept

Thursday 22^nd September
Packed in the morning, just in time, we had Djan all closed up and were just sitting there innocently looking at maps when the ranger turned up. He waved at us and we drove off :) Were heading to Erin and Jahman's today via Nimbin. More winding roads through almost English countryside. Nimbim must be in the most spectacular green valley. What a waste!! The first shop in town was an opshop “Vinnies”. It must be the nicest one I have ever been in. The ladies running it could have come from a well to do city, but the customers definitely must have fried their brains. Listening to some of their conversations I couldn't believe my ears that these were adults, I don't know if I was 'fascinated' or 'embarassed'! Anyway, on down the street, and it got worse so after a quick lunch we headed on. Found Erin's place in a little bit of paradise. The drive to Coorabel felt like something out of The Hobbit. We had a lovely time catching up with what felt like 'an old friend of the family'. Little Jarman was not so little, and was growing into a bright young lad. Erin lives in a wooden cabin built into the side of a hill, so the front door opens out on to the grass, then you go in and downstairs to the kitchen and bathroom, which also opens out on to the grass. Erin had decorated it with all her creative flare. We had great fun opening out Djan with our remote control, but teasing Jahman into saying 'Abra Ca Dabra” and out it came. His little face was a treat. We had a great night, lots of reminiscing.



Friday 23^rd September
Erin had given us perfect instructions for getting into Byron Bay, but forgot to mention just how busy it is – worse than trying to get into Freo. Never mind, it was a must see, being to close. We found some free parking and walked up to the lighthouse (previously done 30 years ago). I like their environmental ploy. If you park at the bottom at a little beach called Wategos, it is free. If you drive up to the Lighthouse you have to pay to park. A little sign at the top congratulated walkers for being environmentally friendly. Halfway down we were entertained by some whales breaching in the waves and then after a picnic on the beach we decided to brave the crowds to get to the info centre in town (we were looking for a tap to fill up Djan with water). Drove around the corner and passed a familiar HiLux and what was attached to the back but the Theunessons Kimberley Kamper. We pulled up and I phoned Rachel, to find out where they were. Turns out just back at the beach, having a BBQ. We walked back, via the toilets where I nearly surprised Jamie out of her skin as she opened the door and bumped into me. After much catching up, we got into the Info Centre and then sidetracked into the Railway Hotel for a quick bevvy with our buddies.Unfortunately they were heading south and we were going West, so we said our goodbyes and were off again. We camped in the Nightcap National Park. The scenery just gets better, so I wont ooooh and aaaah again. But it was good.



Saturday 24^th September
As Erin had told me Jahman had walked up the top of Mt Warning and we had seen quite a few glimpses of it whilst driving around we decided it was on our list to do today. It is the tallest peak around here (maybe one of) at 1156 m. It is 4.4 km to the top and the same back down again. Quite a wiggely drive to get there and a tight squeeze for parking on arrival. These mountains never have nice flat open carparks at the bottom (a bit like Sunshine skiing area outside Banff). With our water, fruit and peanuts, off we went. The signs say to allow for 4-5 hours. It started with lots of steps, but the rainforest was thick and kept us in the shade. A very different type of rainforest, lots of Bangalow Palms. The steps became more of a scramble over rocks and tree roots. Up and on and Up and On. There were nice signs that told you every 1 km how far you had gone and how much further to the top, phew. The last .4km is a climb up a rock face. Fortunately they had chipped ourta few toe holds and put in a chain railing. Would still have been managable without, but it helped. The view from the top of the volcanic plug would have been great on a clear day, but there were a few clouds, so we couldn't quite make out the coast, but it was worth every minute of sweat to get there. The trek down is always the hardest (on the legs) and by 2 km down my knees were complaining, by 3 km down I had Campanile Knee (what I get when I climb the church towers (campaniles) in Italy. By 4km I was walking like a cripple :) It didn't help when chauffeur reminded me in my youth I had run up (and down) Mt Snowdon. What did he expect, I am no longer in my youth, and don't have a problem admitting to middle age! He might be superman and only be suffering from a blistered toe! Found a couple of yummy pies in Uki (honestly, what kind of a name for a village is that I ask you) which revived us and we drove through the Border Ranges National Park. Back up over 1100 m but in Dmax this time. Couple of major lookouts that we had to check out, I must have looked a sight – knees were not doing what they are meant to do (ie bend) it must have been a strange hobble, if anyone was looking. This whole area is a volcanic caldera with Mt Warning in the middle. I just love it – shame the knees don't agree with me. The campspot was full, at least the level ones were so we drove on hoping to find something else. There was a nice carpark for a picnic area, still in the Border Ranges, but not meant for camping, but it was dusk by this stage, so you do what you have to do. Heard a bit of thunder and wind during the night – bet it was right on the top of the mountain where we hadn't been able to find anything level :)
Sunday 25^th September
Woke up nice and dry – bet they weren't on the top, heh, heh. It would seem this is a popular place for breakfast, at least they weren't rangers! Put Djan down, much to the amazement of the breakfasters, who had a lot of questions and queries. There was a rail track running past here and even a loop with a tunnel through one of the mountains. On hearing the train whistle chauffeur was up and running with the camera to take a photo!! Moving on, ever descending, unbelieving this beautiful countryside can continue for much longer – but it did. We were reminded continually of other locations around the world – from UK, NZ and Canada. Found another lookout, Governors Seat for mornos. Lost of warnings we were on the top of a cliff edge, the vista was awesome. Quite a historical place. Should that be “An historical” place? All good things have to come to an end and we eventually reached some flat stuff, but not long later, bypassing Warick, we saw a few gliders being towed. Pulling in for a bit of a sticky beak and another bite to eat (surely I have to gain a few pounds with all this eating we are doing?) we discovered there was a competition going on. Didn't discover what gliders compete against – height, length of time gliding?? However, it was interesting to watch all these gliders being towed up – didn't do much for my fear of heights! Told chauffeur sure I would do it – if he did (Heh, heh, he doesn't like planes without engines). Were definiately on the level ground now, and leaving the volcanic ranges behind. Camped beside the a small river just past Inglewood (on the way to Goondiwindi). Chauffeur cast a few lures, and just before he gave up this poor Yellow Belly latched on. A good couple of pounds, so it was prepped and put in the fridge ready for dinner tomorrow. A few photos, duly emailed to some buddies, and chauffeur went to bed with a smile on his face. XXXX

Friday 16th - Wed 21st Sept

Friday – off to the beach. A ferry over to Cooloola, or something like that. If you look at a map it would appear to be the mainland continuation (south) of Fraser Island. Because of it being school holidays we had been reluctant to do Fraser Island, and waiting 2 weeks for the kids to go back to school was going to prove difficult so this was a good alternative. It certainly had miles and miles of beach driving. Chauffeur was breathalised just before the ferry (and then again as we were driving south along the beach – they certainly take things seriously here, but then we have heard there have been some idiots on the beach). Anyway, we had a lovely day despite the fact that the fish weren't hungry that day. No wind, blue skies, white sand – perfect eh? Picked up a chook from Woolies for dinner and we were happy.
Saturday saw us pick up our Djan, whoo hoo. Hopefully, fingers crossed, it will stay dry in the rain, we will see. Certainly, Travelander seemed confident the leaks had been sorted. A quick repack at Lynn and Greg's and sad goodbyes, and we were heading south to Brisbane. Janelle and Gary, friends we had met in Calgary were awaiting us. I just love the way you can meet up with people you haven't seen for years, and things just continue as if there has been no time lapse. It certainly seem that way with the Dutton's. Made to feel very welcome and even met another friend of theirs who had been in Calgary as well so needless to say there was a lot of Canadian reminiscences. Yet another great time and Monday we headed out to Toowoomba to catch up with 'family', Tony, my Dad's cousin, and his wife Hillary. We took the scenic route East and drove over some very mountainous landscape, unfortunately there have been quite a lot of fires around, and the visibility was poor, to say the least, so I think we probably missed some great views, but you can't have it all, all the time.
Tony and Hillary, were yet again, fantastic hosts, and we had a wonderful time catching up on family history, with some hilarious insights into our 'ancestry'. One of their grandsons was staying, so we again had the enjoyment of a youngster around, plus their dog “Daffy” the daschund was quite a character. Fortunately, Lil, another hound in our family, had trained us well, and we put up with no nonsense. With some 'local resident' directions we headed out on Tuesday to explore Toowoomba. We were quite impressed with the place 30 years ago, and it was still good – despite the tragic floods earlier this year. Most impressive was the Cobb and Co museum, where I learnt to braid a whip and belt, and the Spring Bluff Railway Station – had been devastated during the flood, but you would never know now.
Wednesday September 21^st and we are finally back on the road proper. I think Djan was beginning to feel a bit left out. We haven't slept out in her for 9 nights. It is lovely staying with friends and family in a real house, but it has been a great evening cooking outside and getting 'back to normal'. After leaving Toowoomba we drove South. Not far out the village of Nobby 'distracted' us. Signs of Rudds Pub got out attention. Thinking this might be one of those pubs in the “Australian Bush Pubs” book we pulled in. No it wasn't, but Rudd, who wrote Dad and Dave, used to live here. It certainly deserves a place in the book, character, memorabilia everywhere, but unfortunately at 10:00 in the morning, we weren't interested in a beer or two. However, they sold stickers, so with one in my paw, we took off. This countryside, the Darling Downs, is beautiful. Lots of farms, but rolling hills, and the odd volcano 'plug' sticking up. Lunch at Urbenville – can't believe these little villages, so isolated, but such atmosphere. We are trying to get hold of a friend of Ben's – Erin, who lives not far inland from Byron Bay, we believe. Heading up a mountain in a National Park to camp for the night – we have severe withdrawal symptoms of the bush, having been in towns for a few nights now, we came upon a large branch which had fallen across the track. Usually there is a track around these obstacles, but this must have been recent, and we were on the top of a ridge, there was no way around this, so the axe and machete came out. Can I do anything I asked, as I started to make myself a cup of tea. Yes, came the reply, grab one of these (axe or machete) and make yourself useful!!! Well, I tapped away, trying to be helpful, but wasn't able to make much headway, other than chop through some of the mound of vines and creepers that were wrapped around the main branch. Chauffeur soon had chopped through enough of the branch for us to drag enough of it to the sides of the track and we could continue. Eventually found the camp, only to read a sign that said the camp clearing was closed. The track here was at least 25km and no where had it said the camp at the end was closed!! Oh well, weren't heading back now this late in the arvo, so we followed the track a bit further to a parking clearing and have settled in for the night. Still lovely – just a clearing in the middle of Tunumbar National Park. The birds are very noisy, and we have seen lots of small marsupials (smaller than a Wallaby) jumping across the track – bet they ferret around Max and Djan tonight. Oh yes, finally found the source of the nasty niff in the kitchen area – a broken egg, eugh! Unfortunately, it has made the egg box a bit niffy as well, but I have no where else to store the eggs, so will have to eat them up quick. Glad Chris isn't with us, feeding him eggs would produce an even bigger nastier niff!! XXXX

4th Sept - 16 Sept

Sunday 4^th September Tully Gorge – Mt Fox
It rained all night, but what a place. Have been nursing a headache since Noah's beach – think it might be the weather. Despite the mist, rain etc. you can't help but be moved by the beauty of it. Couldn't handle it for long though. Watched a couple not far away pack up their tent (Tassie number plates) in the wet. Hmmm, although we are wet as well, glad we don't have a tent or a manual camper. I know it is my warped sense of humour, but long raincoats with shorts underneath does look funny. We'd cooked inside last night, and had enough water to make coffee inside as well, oh what a treat. Eventually set off further up the gorge, the trees becoming more and more like sticks with ivy on them. At the top we found a hydro electric plant and a white water rafting group of guides waiting for their 'tourists'. We stopped and chatted in the fat israeli weather. No, it doesn't stop up here apparently, this is the norm. Well, I guess for a hydro electric plant and white water rafting to be here, there has to be rain. Now I know I am 'growing up' (no, not getting old) because 20 years ago I would have been begging Malcolm please please can we join in as well. But I was quite content to chat and watch, and very glad to get back into a nice dry Dmax and head back down the gorge. The tour guide confirmed to me that the bare tree trunks were indeed all that was left of the rainforest before Cyclone Yasi hit earlier this year, in fact where we standing which was very open and exposed had been completely undercover of the forest. Driving back down the gorge and now knowing that these 'strange' trees were indeed the result of the cyclone impacted me all the more. Whew, what a scarey, noisey, catastrophe it must have been. The guide, a local from Mission Beach, reckoned it would take 50 years for the upper storey of the forest to return to its former size. Next on the list of 'falls' to visit was Australia's highest, Mullaman Falls . If I thought we had found Henry's No.1 drive before this one out did it. More devastation as we wound our way up and up. Then suddenly we seemed to be out of the rainforest 'stalks' and into gum trees. How interesting. Didn't think we would ever get there, but we did, and were rewarded with a feast for the eyes. I always think when it is wet and grey it is a real bummer, but in this case it meant the falls were surrounded by swirling mists, ever changing. So although it wasn't really the type of weather to lounge around and take it in, we made our lunch and walked out on to the viewing platform, and it was well worth it. One of the most common sights we have seen all the way from Perth is the amount of, mostly, cow poop in the middle of the road. And even driving up here, yes you guessed it, poop, in the middle of the road. Mind you, one side of the road, was the upside of the mountain, the other side was a vertical drop so where else would you poop,but why do the cows want to go up there (over 700m) – I thought the grass was greener on the other side of the fence, not at the top of the mountain. Michael had commented earlier in NT that these Brahmin cows looked gormless. Anyway, back down the mountain through Trebonne, near Ingham and back up another mountain to Mt Fox. Another rewarding drive – this was all with a view to keep away from the coast and tourist areas. This certainly was a locals only drive and we loved it. Found Mt Fox to discover it was called Mt Fox Crater. Eventually found somewhere to camp after driving around the mountain, literally. Nipple Hill. I guess we were up on a plateau, and up rose this pointed mound. Took quite a while to find a level spot – think Djan is shrinking, at least it is not opening out fully, the floor is at a slight angle and the supporting legs aren't quite long enough to reach the ground, so we have to park with Dmax on the level, but against a slight rise to lower Djan on to. (hopefully it will get fixed next week).



Monday 5^th September – Mt Fox to Charters Towers
Climbing boots on first thing and up the 'nipple' we climbed. Over 800mt at the top. A bit of a steep scramble over lots of loose lava rocks and scrubby bushes. Once at the top we looked down into the 'crater'. Headache not improving, and the gusty wind not blowing the 'cobwebs' away, but it was worth it for the view. A long drive into Charters Towers. What a quaint, very historical town. Missed the op shop, closed at midday, as we first had to visit O'Brien's windscreen repairs. One of the hundreds of road trains thundering towards us had kicked up a stone and we had quite a chip. Lunch in a nice park with a vege van on the side. He was from Atherton, so we had a nice chat and stocked up on some Tablelands grown veges and fruit. Ended up camping a few Kms to the East of town, after a fruitless 150Km circle of a wild goose chase trying to find a Basalt Wall in a NP. The free camp out of town, was just beside a nice river but sandwiched in between a railway line and the major road out of town at which there were roadworks.



Tuesday 6^th September – Charters Towers – Theresa Creek Dam, Nr Clermont
Not a quiet night. Top that off with the worst stage of headache (most painful laying down) I was rather fragile and grumpy in the morning. Managed to get going somehow – chauffeur keeping out of my way :-). Back roads again, which normally we prefer, but doesn't make coping with the headache any easier. We made our way to Burdekin Dam. Although it was an official campsite, it was quite deserted, and I wished we had pushed on yesterday and spent the night here. A huge dam, (popular fishing spot) we will have to come back to QLD with a tinny. To get to the other side you actually drive across the bottom of the dam wall, quite unusual and visually dramatic. We eventually came to a place in the middle of nowhere that only seemed to have a little bush pub. (Will have to check with Michael if it is in the Pub 'Bible'). Chauffeur convinced me that a little tipple at lunch time might be just the medicine I needed – well it couldn't make things worse I decided so in we went. It turns out Mt Coolon was once QLD's largest gold producing area. It was one of those 'history' places, that had the obligatory tipsy local holding up the bar (not quite midday when we walked in). Turns out there was still a gold mine there and he was one of the workers!! Chauffeur was right, 2 ciders later, the medicine had numbed the worst of the headache and I felt well enough to be 'civil' again. Unfortunately it was still a long drive on bumpy roads to Clermont where we got directions to Theresa Creek Dam campsite. I had to chuckle, despite feeling most unwell, as the lady from Lancashire in the information centre asked me what scent I was wearing as I smelt so nice. Having been on the hot and dusty road for 2 months, the showers have been infrequent, and most nights come down to a bowl of water, and wet wipes in the morning with the occasional swim in a creek. She was quite amused when I told her it was my lemon myrtle insect repellent. We found Theresa Creek Dam, and no sooner had we set up than visitors arrived – the feathery kind. Lorikeets, obviously used to campers, alighted all over me much to my delight. They stood on the top of the kitchen cupboard, leaning over chauffeur as he sliced up our dinner. They would have been inside Djan if I had let them. After watching the kookaburras steal Trev's weetbix at Lake Tinaroo, I kept a watchful eye on them.



Wednesday 7^th September – Theresa Creek Dam – Baralaba
Another bad night, feel absolutely exhausted, but feel like the headache monster is going to get back in its box today. This area of QLD is very much the 'gem' centre. A little south and we drove through Sapphire. Yippee, I found the quaintest Op shop and delighted the ladies in there when I told them I had a birthday party to go do and needed to find something smart to wear. I did find a $1 top so did chauffeur. We will wear them with pride to Bruce's 60^th on Saturday. Further on we found Emerald. There is a huge painting on an easel (about 10 m high) in a park with a painting of Van Gogh's sunflowers, quite impressive. A few more groceries whilst chauffeur made some phone calls to find a dentist (he is missing half a tooth) and to book Dmax in for another service. Is it really 10,000 Km since Darwin. Spent the night at another water hole in Baralaba. The monster is back in its box, although the lid not quite shut yet. Anyone who suffers with headaches will know what I am talking about. Camped next to an old guy that seemed to know all the good camping hidey holes, so he advised us of a 'spot' for tomorrow night.



Thursday 7^th September – Baralaba – Ban Ban Springs
Yippee, finally a proper sleep and I think the lid is locked. I am back in the land of the living and glad to be here. Chugging on through beautiful QLD, Banana, Theodore (where I washed my hair in the park in the middle of town), Cracow, Eidsvold. Who thinks of these names. Chauffeur thinks it must be a bible belt as we have only passed one pub (that was in Cracow and it was the only thing there). Eidsvold delighted me with a little op shop that had a pair of white trousers that fit me!!! So now I can go to the party with a 'new' top and trousers that don't need to be held up with a belt. Did have to pay $2 for them. Next stop was Gayndar which holds the title of Oldest town in QLD. Stuck between the choice of 2 pubs, one on each corner of the main cross roads in town, a passing local advised us which one to go to. As they had XXXX Bitter on tap chauffeur didn't complain, neither did I when I saw that they had cider on tap as well. We had to come for a drink as we needed small change. This is the roadside fruit stall area where they usually have honesty boxes. I don't think we would be believed if we were caught raiding one of these boxes for change for a $50 note so we could get a bag of oranges. Another op shop produced a nice pair of shorts for chauffeur and a pair of sandals for me. So far I have spent $9 on our 'party ware' and believe it or not they are all brand new! Hmm, Gympie tomorrow, wonder if an op shop will provide a $1 belt just in case my trousers get a bit loose. Ban Ban Springs is a gem. We are parked up on a level bit of grass (the odd cow poop around :-) and a fast running creek a stone's throw away. Another couple here assured me there are no crocs around, so we hightailed it into the water before the sun went down. Smartened my chauffeur up with a haircut and beard trim – we should look semi-respectable to catch up with Bruce and Judy tomorrow. Xxxx



Friday 10^th – Friday 16^th September
What a week, most of it under a proper roof :-) have had full coverage all the time and I haven't been near the comp. Arrived at The Farm. This is the 30 acres that Bruce and his sister, Lynn, grew up on. Lynn and her husband Greg now live here (in a beautiful new house that Greg built). Got here early afternoon and Greg took Malcolm out the back to choose a spot in the paddock to open up the camper. Slowly more friends and family arrived. What a great family, but it was very hard remembering names and who belonged to who. Especially as Judy went to school with some of Bruce's cousins. Lovely people. There is a train track not far away, so the trains trundled through during the night stirring childhood memories for chauffeur. By Saturday afternoon, there were more kids (Bruce's) and grandkids than you can shake a stick at. But being such a large place, verandah's on all sides, beautiful views, people just blended. It also meant there were plenty of hands to get involved in the roasting of the meat over a spit. It took a bit longer than planned, but there was so much food around no one was wasting away. Many people sleeping over, there must have been mattresses all over the floors, but we were tucked up snugly in Djan (chauffeur had to don beany as it was a crisp night). Djan also had company as another couple Fay and 'Slippo' came over in their huge bus and parked nearby. It was nice to check out someone else's 'home away from home'. They are more experienced than us and have spent years travelling. Alan (otherwise known as Slippo) had refurbished the inside of their home. Not only was he a diesel mechanic and had rebuilt all the engine/working parts, he was obviously a dab handyman with the furniture side of things as well. Fay was interested to check out our Djan and as she had worked for a company making marquees, could see why we were possibly getting leaks.
We eventually dragged ourselves out of bed on Sunday morning to find a huge BBQ breakfast underway. No chance of going hungry. By lunch time the numbers had dwindled to just 'family' and after a lunch of cold meats and salads, there was just a handful. Believe it or not we still found room to eat dinner, but it was an early night for most of us – 60 year olds just can't take the pace any more!
Bruce and Judy were leaving to fly back to Perth on Monday and after saying goodbye to them, we took our Djan down to the Travelander workshop, which unbelievably is 10 minutes away. Lynn and Greg have made us feel part of their family, and invited us to stay (under their roof – not in the paddock) whilst Djan is being repaired. After such a busy weekend, with so many people to cater for, I felt they must surely be glad to get rid of everyone and have their place back to themselves, but they are quite insistant we stay even though it looks like it might take until the end of the week before we can pick it up.
Tuesday Malcolm had a dental appt.. No problems, tooth fixed with no major drama. Talk about a small world, the receptionist there was from Lesmurdie – lived near the school that the boys had gone to on Falls Road. Drove up to Noosa Heads for a bit of a sticky beak, as we had been there over 27 years ago. Despite it being unrecognisable other than the mouth of the river, it is still lovely. At one point, chauffeur commented “Why are we living in Perth??” Talking about mouth's, the dentist must have thought chauffeur was a bull, and injected him with enough anesthetic to numb one for a week. Five hours later he was still dribbling and speaking as if he had been on the 'juice' all day. I wasn't very sympathetic, it was quite amusing. Our hosts, Greg and Lynn, are great company and obviously like minded – love the Ozzie bush, fishing, camping etc, so the evenings are spent swapping stories.
Wednesday, it was D'Max's turn for attention and we took him off for the 20,000km service. This time it was the Ford dealer who Isuzu sent their ute's to for work. After our 'experience' in Darwin, we were ready to be given a bit of a run around. But no, this mob have their act together and were very professional and experienced with Isuzu's. Know all about the squeal coming from the wheels (apparently a common fault, and a work in progress to improve it). We took the courtesy bus into town and spent the day meandering up the river. In fact had breakfast sitting along side a small creek and after throwing my prune stones into the water were amazed to see quite a lot of bream swimming around. Also what might have been a large mullet – 40/50cm long. The Maroochydore river mouth is an angler's delight, so many bays, sand banks, deep flowing channels, quite a few people fishing, so chauffeur chatted them up checking out what was biting etc. After half an hour lazing on the sand watching the surfing, dogs playing etc. we wandered up to the surf club for mornos. Greg had been an avid lifesaver in his earlier years (what young Ozzie lad living by the coast wasn't) and he had reminisced many of his mis-adventures as a lad. Surf clubs here are quite something – pokies, restaurant etc. Later on found us having a burger at the Pig and Whistle with a beer and a cider whilst watching one of the World Cup rugby games, before being picked up by our courtesy bus to collect D'Max.
Thursday, chauffeur was having 4x4 withdrawal symptoms so it was off to a beautiful forest about an hour's drive south of Woombye, and we ooooh'd and arrrr'd all day over the glass house mountains, views over dams, rolling green hillsides, rainforest, giant cedars, etc. Pictureque perfect. Driving back through Maleny and Montville we were enchanged by the unique little townships, touristy, but lovely all the same. Back 'home' in the evening for yet another lovely evening with our hosts.XXXX