Saturday 30th July - Darwin to Katherin - 11,624 Km

Saturday 30^th July – 11624 Km

Yea, off this morning to Kakadu. A few stops along the way – jumping crocadile cruises etc., but nothing took our fancy, so after lunch we pressed on. Not a very interesting drive. We pulled into Merl campground and dropped off the trailers to reserve a spot (learning) and then drove around the corner to Ubirr -to see the rock paintings and view the sunset from an outcrop. Well, that was once of those experiences you can put on a “Bucket List”. We were very impressed. Sitting up on the top of this rock, overlooking a huge flood plain. A Parks Ranger briefly describing the land, people, culture, art – made it a memorable experience. Learnned (I am having a problem with these nnnnasty 'N's – they seem to have a stutter and I keep having to return and delete them, no mmore , hahm, hah hah, now my mmmmms have them, all without anny 'medicine either) Now, where was I. Oh yes, we learned so much about indigenous culture – some 'incidents' in Fremantle make sense nnow. We were all amazed no one ever explains this. We all raced off the rock enmass and the mossies descended. They had hit the camp and cooking dinner was a challenge with the mossies as thick as a blanket. We forgot to close the kitchenn door when we went to bed, so I was entertaind by my nearest and dearest leaping aroud the camper flicking towels at the walls of the camper trying to kill the little blighters. I half expected to wake up covered in lumps and itchy bumps, but we were ok.

Friday 29th July - Darwin

Friday 29^th July

Malcolm took Dmax off for it's 10,000 km service. We have had such a saga trying to book it in, then reschedule, service dept never open, sales guys not passing on messages etc. Finally we had spoken to someone who seemed to know what they were doing, last Friday and she had sent us an email to confirm the booking. Turns out Isuzu gives their vehicles to Mitsubishi to service, and Malcolm caught up with Richard, surprise surprise, as his Pajero was also being serviced. Anyway, they had no record of any of our details (despite Malcolm having given them on 3 separate occsions). So we were the at the end of the line. It took all day, so I had a leisurely time finishing off my book in the shade with my feet dangling in the pool. I hate caravan parks, everyone crammed in like sardines, living on top of one another, but today I was grateful for the pool. We raced off to Coles at 5:00 pm after the car was ready. I was so impressed. The butchers was sooo good. Grass fed rump steak at 11.99. In Coles, 3 extra large avocados for $3.00. We all agreed, we are being ripped off in Perth. Back to camp to mount the camper back on to Dmax. It went smoothly. But we did discover we had filled up our 120 litre water tank with non-drinking water – after I had specifically asked a garden staff member which tap to use! So it was an empty out and refil job. I will be quite glad to get back to the bush again.

Thursday 28th July - Darwin - 11,495 Km

Thursday 28^th July – Darwin 11495 Km

Darwin must have the noisiest dawn chorus I have ever heard! After a few domestic chores we set off into town. We had a broken spotty cover, we found a spare in TJM. Further into town ANZ was our next port of call to collect Malcolm's replacement Visa. We had to walk past an op shop, so I ducked in and for the first time ever, I couldn't find a single thing to buy. Never mind there would be more. Sure enough I found a bargain in the Red Cross just around the corner. We drove around the esplanade and ended up parking opposite the Mindil markets and walked around the botanical gardens. Some interesting trees, and even better wrought iron gates, with some creative art work. Off to the markets for 4:30. They are well known for their food stalls, and they didn't disappoint. A bit more than the Freo Markets. Didn't stay long though, and after a nice Indian headed back to the park.

Wednesday 27th July - Florene Falls to Darwi - 11,371 Km

Wednesday 27^th July – Florence Falls to Darwin – 11371 Km

After an early morning swim in a crystal clear pool (all to ourselves), an egg and bacon breakfast we said goodbye to our neighbours only to discover they have a travelling companion “Ted”. We eagerly introduced Ted to Max and Hudson and much hilarity ensured as they exchanged travel adventures. Ted was a bit older than our 2 fur kids and was a bit of a 'thread' bear, but he had obviously led a very full life. A group photo, and we were on our way. Halfway up the hill Webmaster (Michael) called out we had coverage so we pulled over to call up Isuzu in Darwin to see if our messages had got through re the 10,000 km service for Dmax, turns out they had no info at all, not even our original booking for the previous Monday – country town huh? Told Michael we were all sorted and pulling out again, when there was a voice on the radio “Is that you Trish?” It was our good friends Tom and Vicky and they were only up the road from us, so we all called in to Buley Hole and caught up news/travel etc whilst cooling off in the beautiful pools. I need more adjectives for these water holes. Then decided to convoy together to Batchelor, where we had a picnic lunch and lots more nattering. Vicky showed me around their Hilton Hotel – WOW, very flash I must say. We parted company, they were meeting up with friends in Katherine and we were rejoining Trev and Rachel and Helen and Richard in Darwin. We arrived and got ourselves set up in Howard Springs Caravan Park. We decided we would demount our Hu (hump on the Ute) for the first time. We entertained Richard and Helen, who discretely watched our bumbling around. Eventually got Hu high enough and Dmax low enough to separate the 2. It might be fun remounting Hu as the grass is quite uneven and puts the tray at all sorts of angles as you drive over them. Found we were camped beside another couple that Malcolm had met 2 nights go. He had introduced himself to them as they had Mandurah number plates, but turned out to be from Booragoon.

Litchfield to Darwin - 11371 Km

After an early morning swim in a crystal clear pool (all to ourselves), an egg and bacon breakfast we said goodbye to our neighbours only to discover they have a travelling companion “Ted”. We eagerly introduced Ted to Max and Hudson and much hilarity ensured as they exchanged travel adventures. Ted was a bit older than our 2 fur kids and was a bit of a 'thread' bear, but he had obviously led a very full life. A group photo, and we were on our way. Halfway up the hill Webmaster (Michael) called out we had coverage so we pulled over to call up Isuzu in Darwin to see if our messages had got through re the 10,000 km service for Dmax, turns out they had no info at all, not even our original booking for the previous Monday – country town huh? Told Michael we were all sorted and pulling out again, when there was a voice on the radio “Is that you Trish?” It was our good friends Tom and Vicky and they were only up the road from us, so we all called in to Buley Hole and caught up news/travel etc whilst cooling off in the beautiful pools. I need more adjectives for these water holes. Then decided to convoy together to Batchelor, where we had a picnic lunch and lots more nattering. Vicky showed me around their Hilton Hotel – WOW, very flash I must say. We parted company, they were meeting up with friends in Katherine and we were rejoining Trev and Rachel and Helen and Richard in Darwin. We arrived and got ourselves set up in Howard Springs Caravan Park. We decided we would demount our Hu (hump on the Ute) for the first time. We entertained Richard and Helen, who discretely watched our bumbling around. Eventually got Hu high enough and Dmax low enough to separate the 2. It might be fun remounting Hu as the grass is quite uneven and puts the tray at all sorts of angles as you drive over them. Found we were camped beside another couple that Malcolm had met 2 nights go. He had introduced himself to them as they had Mandurah number plates, but turned out to be from Booragoon.

Litchfield National Park- 11329 Km

In to Katherine, quick stop into Woolworths for some groceries (medicine chest still ok). Headed north to Daly Waters to find the hot springs. Being school holidays (and a public holiday in Darwin) found the campsite quite full. Managed to find a space for our 4 vehicles, lunch and down into the creek for a soak. Very interesting one cold and one hot creek converging, with only a very small spot where the water was comfortable. We plonked (read 'plonk' not plank) ourselves down next to a couple from Bunbury, heh such a small world. It was a couple of hours before we could drag ourselves out, but then when we got back to the campsite, there were even more people there. Absolutely surrounded by tarps, vans of every description and tents, smoke from fires. Oh well we have to share this beautiful land occasionally. Not a good night, our camping area was engulfed by a mob of young “yobbos”. They carried on into the early hours of the morning, with disgraceful behaviour.

Tuesday 26th July Wangy Falls 11,329

Tuesday 26^th July – Wangi Falls to 4WD campsite near Florence falls – 11,329 Km

Forgot to mention other than Michael and myself, everyone else had gone for a walk to the Wangi Falls. As they were not swimmable I had decided to stay 'home' and prep dinner – I would look at Malcolms photos :) A good start in the morning, re-airing the tyres as most of the driving would be on tarmac today and Malcolm and Rachael guiding Trev back to rehitch his trailer (with the flat jockey wheel). First stop The Cascades. A 1.7 km hike again, (but we were still fresh). Yet another pool and falls, so the inevitable 'play' in the water, before walking back via the creek (babbling brook). Either side of which quite thick monsoon forest. Interestingly 20 meters back from the creek the landscape changes back to dry scrub. On again to Tolmer Falls. As there are several bat colonies living here, you are not allowed to enter the gorge, but there is a lovely lookout to view the falls from. It was now lunch time and decided we had better hunt for and reserve ourself a campspot (learning by now the early bird gets the biggest/levelest site). Headed up to Florence Falls and saw a sign for 4x4 camping. Turned in and after jump starting someone with a flat battery, found ourselves a very suitable place for the night. It is only about a 20 m walk to some swimming holes and a 15 minutes 'easy' (so the sign says) walk to Florence. So I will close up here for now and head up there. Well, this is a choice spot. A 20m walk to numerous swimming holes in the babbling brook, all over hung by shady, palms and pandanas, quite a paradise, some little holes quite deep and sandy bottomed. Another 15 minute walk up this creek comes out at Florence Falls. Whilst these are quite high and lots of water with a large swimming hole around the base, it was far too busy – I guess because it was easy access by road, and all the tours from Darwin would head here. Nevertheless it was interesting watching a few young lads test their nerve climbing up the rock face to leap off the top. A beautiful Monsoon Forest through Shady Creek just past this. Most enjoyable. Got chatting to some other campers who had come from Cape York so we were all eager to pick their brains. Some challenging driving ahead of us I think. I looked at the boys faces whilst the stories were being told and could tell they are all itching to get there and test their driving abilities.

Missing Days 4 Aug, 31 July and 25th July

Thursday 4^th August – 12,680 Km



Packed up, refuelled, checked out the ANZ to see what we can do about our expired debit cards (which are now sitting in Perth!) and picked up Census forms. All chores done and we set off south for Mataranka. Checked out bitter springs, so named because of the bitter taste, quite pretty but no time for a dip as there was a barra feeding demonstration happeningat “The Homestead” which the 'boys' wanted to see so we shot off to that. Quite amazing, informative and the barra were huge. Learnt the black ones are not good eating – only the silver ones. When the barra 'boof' they take a gulp of air when they surface ,catch a fish then expel it through their gills. (no the air, not the fish :-) The first BOOF made everyone jump. Luke warm springs, at the Never Never Homestead, a bit disappointing, also (for conservation sakes) a bit man made, so not as awesome as Litchfield, but can't complain – much better than being in Perth in winter. We pressed on and camped in a rest area about 40 Km west of Roper Bar. More rubbish bins than you could shake a stick at. Quite a novelty, most places, even relatively expensive campsites don't provide a rubbish bin. Got talking to a French couple that had come from Cape York, he was a photographer, and it was quite interesting to glean his information.

Litchfield National Park

In to Katherine, quick stop into Woolworths for some groceries (medicine chest still ok). Headed north to Daly Waters to find the hot springs. Being school holidays (and a public holiday in Darwin) found the campsite quite full. Managed to find a space for our 4 vehicles, lunch and down into the creek for a soak. Very interesting one cold and one hot creek converging, with only a very small spot where the water was comfortable. We plonked (read 'plonk' not plank) ourselves down next to a couple from Bunbury, heh such a small world. It was a couple of hours before we could drag ourselves out, but then when we got back to the campsite, there were even more people there. Absolutely surrounded by tarps, vans of every description and tents, smoke from fires. Oh well we have to share this beautiful land occasionally. Not a good night, our camping area was engulfed by a mob of young “yobbos”. They carried on into the early hours of the morning, with disgraceful behaviour.

Perry's on the Daly

In to Katherine, quick stop into Woolworths for some groceries (medicine chest still ok). Headed north to Daly Waters to find the hot springs. Being school holidays (and a public holiday in Darwin) found the campsite quite full. Managed to find a space for our 4 vehicles, lunch and down into the creek for a soak. Very interesting one cold and one hot creek converging, with only a very small spot where the water was comfortable. We plonked (read 'plonk' not plank) ourselves down next to a couple from Bunbury, heh such a small world. It was a couple of hours before we could drag ourselves out, but then when we got back to the campsite, there were even more people there. Absolutely surrounded by tarps, vans of every description and tents, smoke from fires. Oh well we have to share this beautiful land occasionally. Not a good night, our camping area was engulfed by a mob of young “yobbos”. They carried on into the early hours of the morning, with disgraceful behaviour.

Hot Spring to Perry's - 11118 Km

In to Katherine, quick stop into Woolworths for some groceries (medicine chest still ok). Headed north to Daly Waters to find the hot springs. Being school holidays (and a public holiday in Darwin) found the campsite quite full. Managed to find a space for our 4 vehicles, lunch and down into the creek for a soak. Very interesting one cold and one hot creek converging, with only a very small spot where the water was comfortable. We plonked (read 'plonk' not plank) ourselves down next to a couple from Bunbury, heh such a small world. It was a couple of hours before we could drag ourselves out, but then when we got back to the campsite, there were even more people there. Absolutely surrounded by tarps, vans of every description and tents, smoke from fires. Oh well we have to share this beautiful land occasionally. Not a good night, our camping area was engulfed by a mob of young “yobbos”. They carried on into the early hours of the morning, with disgraceful behaviour.

W of Katherine to Douglas Hot Spring - 10722 Km

In to Katherine, quick stop into Woolworths for some groceries (medicine chest still ok). Headed north to Daly Waters to find the hot springs. Being school holidays (and a public holiday in Darwin) found the campsite quite full. Managed to find a space for our 4 vehicles, lunch and down into the creek for a soak. Very interesting one cold and one hot creek converging, with only a very small spot where the water was comfortable. We plonked (read 'plonk' not plank) ourselves down next to a couple from Bunbury, heh such a small world. It was a couple of hours before we could drag ourselves out, but then when we got back to the campsite, there were even more people there. Absolutely surrounded by tarps, vans of every description and tents, smoke from fires. Oh well we have to share this beautiful land occasionally. Not a good night, our camping area was engulfed by a mob of young “yobbos”. They carried on into the early hours of the morning, with disgraceful behaviour.

Drovers Rest to W of Katherine - 10417 Km

Relaxed start, eggs and bacon, and off we went again, lots of hard rocky track, not difficult, but uncomfortable, a few small creek crossings. Back on the Victoria Highway, we sailed along into Victoria River Downs. Picturesque, lovely escarpment, lush green big river. Lunch and off we went again. Decided not to head into Katherine so pulled up for a bush camp 30 km W of Katherine, again plenty of time to catch up on domestic duties (washing), lots of large boab trees, Jamie and Lewis found some of the nuts – size of a small rugby ball – with a velvity covering.

Tops Springs to Drovers Rest - 10067 Km

Sadly I had to say goodbye to Cory and she dropped me back at the Big 4. We decamped and headed into town. Had to pay a visit to the ANZ as Malcolm had discovered someone had 'used' our Visa card to purchase an Emirates ticket to Dubai ($2000). ANZ cancelled his card but Malcolm had to fill in form at the bank and arrange to pick up a new card in Darwin. Walked passed an op shop which insisted I went in. Found a new 100% merino wool sleeveless sweater for $3 that had my name on it. A delightful lady from Yorkshire served me and I had to bring Malcolm back to meet her :) She looked like an older version of Malcolm's first girlfriend Sue! After a quick car wash and fuel up we had to leave Alice to meet up with the others at Ti Tree. We were half an hour late getting there but the others hadn't arrived, so time for lunch.

Was entertained by a pack of mongrel dogs jumping in and out of a rubbish, bin. Eventually we were all in convoy again heading north on the Stuart Highway hoping to spend the night at the Devils Marbles. Michael's Bush Pub book advised us that the Barrow Creek pub was along the way, so we had a short stopover to taste their wares. This pub is famous for the Peter Falconio 'murder mystery' being where Lee managed to raise the alarm of the incident. Whilst Michael and Malcolm decided that their thirst wasn't quite quenched and needed another round, the Kingstons and Theunissens set off to find a camping spot for the night. We were soon in pursuit again, after getting the book autographed. Heard from the others over the radio that the Devils Marbles campsite was chokkers, so we started looking for any other suitable place, but no luck and eventually caught up at the overflow carpark. A pleasant social night, dry and not too cold.

Devils Marbles to Top Springs - 9435 Km

Sadly I had to say goodbye to Cory and she dropped me back at the Big 4. We decamped and headed into town. Had to pay a visit to the ANZ as Malcolm had discovered someone had 'used' our Visa card to purchase an Emirates ticket to Dubai ($2000). ANZ cancelled his card but Malcolm had to fill in form at the bank and arrange to pick up a new card in Darwin. Walked passed an op shop which insisted I went in. Found a new 100% merino wool sleeveless sweater for $3 that had my name on it. A delightful lady from Yorkshire served me and I had to bring Malcolm back to meet her :) She looked like an older version of Malcolm's first girlfriend Sue! After a quick car wash and fuel up we had to leave Alice to meet up with the others at Ti Tree. We were half an hour late getting there but the others hadn't arrived, so time for lunch.

Was entertained by a pack of mongrel dogs jumping in and out of a rubbish, bin. Eventually we were all in convoy again heading north on the Stuart Highway hoping to spend the night at the Devils Marbles. Michael's Bush Pub book advised us that the Barrow Creek pub was along the way, so we had a short stopover to taste their wares. This pub is famous for the Peter Falconio 'murder mystery' being where Lee managed to raise the alarm of the incident. Whilst Michael and Malcolm decided that their thirst wasn't quite quenched and needed another round, the Kingstons and Theunissens set off to find a camping spot for the night. We were soon in pursuit again, after getting the book autographed. Heard from the others over the radio that the Devils Marbles campsite was chokkers, so we started looking for any other suitable place, but no luck and eventually caught up at the overflow carpark. A pleasant social night, dry and not too cold.

Alice to Devils Marbles - 9033 Km

Sadly I had to say goodbye to Cory and she dropped me back at the Big 4. We decamped and headed into town. Had to pay a visit to the ANZ as Malcolm had discovered someone had 'used' our Visa card to purchase an Emirates ticket to Dubai ($2000). ANZ cancelled his card but Malcolm had to fill in form at the bank and arrange to pick up a new card in Darwin. Walked passed an op shop which insisted I went in. Found a new 100% merino wool sleeveless sweater for $3 that had my name on it. A delightful lady from Yorkshire served me and I had to bring Malcolm back to meet her :) She looked like an older version of Malcolm's first girlfriend Sue! After a quick car wash and fuel up we had to leave Alice to meet up with the others at Ti Tree. We were half an hour late getting there but the others hadn't arrived, so time for lunch.

Was entertained by a pack of mongrel dogs jumping in and out of a rubbish, bin. Eventually we were all in convoy again heading north on the Stuart Highway hoping to spend the night at the Devils Marbles. Michael's Bush Pub book advised us that the Barrow Creek pub was along the way, so we had a short stopover to taste their wares. This pub is famous for the Peter Falconio 'murder mystery' being where Lee managed to raise the alarm of the incident. Whilst Michael and Malcolm decided that their thirst wasn't quite quenched and needed another round, the Kingstons and Theunissens set off to find a camping spot for the night. We were soon in pursuit again, after getting the book autographed. Heard from the others over the radio that the Devils Marbles campsite was chokkers, so we started looking for any other suitable place, but no luck and eventually caught up at the overflow carpark. A pleasant social night, dry and not too cold.

Alice with Cory

I had arranged to meet up with an old friend from Melbourne who had been living in Alice for over 11 years. She picked me up in the morning and we didn't stop chatting until bedtime (I slept over at her place). The Kingstons and Theunissens headed east to Ruby Valley, but Malcolm and Michael stayed put to 'catch up' with car stuff and explore Alice. They walked down through Todd Mall to the Town and 'Country bar for a few beers and live music. A good relaxing afternoon. Went back to the camp to watch the didgeridoo concert, very entertaining and walked to the pub round the corner for a $10 carvery, great value. They were 'picked up' by Miss Marguerite, from the local Lutheran Aboriginal College (Yulara). She took them of this school where she educated M and M on their efforts to teach Indigenous children the basics of the whitemans world. An extremely difficult and challenging task, but with the passion shown by Miss Margurite we arre sure they aremaking progress. She then drove them on a night tour of Alice, including the casino, past the golf corse, across the Todd River pointing out the Woolworths discount fuel station, car wash facilities ending up at Anzac hill to view the lights of Alice, after which she dropped them off back at the Big 4. All in all a very relaxing and educative day.

Gorges into Alice

Setting off that morning, we were all delighted with the blue skies. Driving through Tylers Pass was very pretty, some low lying mist in places around the Macdonnell Ranges made for some unusuual photos. This day we visited Redbank Gorge, Glen Helen, Ormiston, Ochre Pit and Ellery Pit Big Hole. These are all gorges in the Macdonnell ranges. Each one quite unique in its own way. A lot of stinky dead fish in the water holes, which was a natural seasonal occurance due to elevated water temperatures. We looked down on a dingo routing around in the shallows at Ormiston. , whilst eagles soared overhead. A perfect day, but feltgorged out at the end. Headed on into Alice, Malcolm continually expecting the fuel red light to pop on at any time, as we had been on empty for the last 100 km. It did come on for the first time ever 20 km outside Alice, so we cruised in and took advantage of the first petrol station we came on and quite happy to pay $1.67 a litre. After topping up there was probably 12 litres left in the tank which is about another 100 km. Now we have a bench mark. We caught up with Richard and Helen, who had deserted us after Curtain Springs. They have been in this neck of the woods before and had gone looking for some respite from the rain. They had camped at the Big 4 and reserved the sites next to them for us. After much longed for showers we drove into the RSL club for a very nice buffet dinner, (to gorge out yet again).

Boggy Hole - 8820 Km

Awoke to Michael's cries of “I've had a brain wave”. Apparently he had been awake half the night working out how to rig himself up a hot shower. He set about it with great enthusiasm. We treated ourselves to a cooked breakfast – that went down a treat. Decamped and proceeded onto Hermannsberg with more gravel, sand and river crossings. The biggest one of which was a good 70 metres wide, necessitating a volunteer to check the depth. Malcolm knowing the croc infested river crossing that would have to be checked in the Cape volunteered to do this easy one. He set out with shorts rolled up and a big walking stick, looking like Gandalf (was that because of the white beard). Despite it being toe numbingly freezing the crossing was safe, and all the boys throughly enjoyed driving through seeing who could make the largest bow wave.

At Hermannsberg, everyone decided they didn't want to pay $2.20 for fuel so we headed for Palm Valley. A very rocky slow treck to the end of the valley, but worth it. So called because of it's unique cycad palms. Another quick walk through, up and along the top of the gorge. Nice to get some exercise. Time for lunch before setting off for Grosse Bluff. This is a huge meteorite crater, We were looking for the crater but it was only after climbing a lookout we realised we had been in the crater – it was spectacular. No time to waste, headed towards West Macdonnell Ranges looking for a suitable camp for the night. Eventually managing to drive through some scrub some few hundred metres out of sight of the road. We opened up the camper to discover we were parked over an ant highway, as that would have meant me standing on it to cook, we had to moved. Fortunately with the luxury of our remote control (the envy of Michael) it wasn't long before we had relocated to a less 'trafficked' spot. A full moon that night, so it was cold, but dry and we saw stars for the first time.

Finke National Park - 8677 Km

Headed off to Finke National Park advised by ARB in Mandurah, through Running Waters and Boggy Hole. Drove back up to the Ernest Giles and turned East. Too eager to get off the road and adventuring, turned north too quickly, ignoring the No Entry, Permit Required, $5000 fine, notice. It wasn't until we almost stumbled upon the Aboriginal community it dawned on us we had actually taken the wrong track in our eagerness for some 4x4 driving. We beat a hasty retreat and found the correct track some 20km further along the Ernest Giles. This track took us into the Ilpurla community, searching for the track to the Ilpurla Springs. This was the site of an 1880s police station. We did a lap around the community's corral, before finding the track, much to the disgust and complete dismissal of its inhabitants, except for a dozen dogs who saw us off. Found the right track and had lunch before walking to the spring – which was dry. Quite a few ruins. It must have been a tough life in the 1880's.

The afternoon saw us heading into the national park through numerous gates and boggy mud holes which redecorated the vehicles. We pushed onto Running Waters for the first creek crossing. All the cars passed their first swimming test , but some drivers failed their driving test by forgetting to undo their seat belts (but it was only 2 metres wide). The driving was very enjoyable through a variety of terrains, including riverbed gravel, soft sand and mud. Quite a few photo stops. Continued to boggy hole were we stopped for the night. Nice to pull up in daylight and it had also started to clear during the day, with patched of blue sky. Was very amused to see the first thing Rachel did was put up a washing line to dry out some of the wet clothes. We had collected some wood before the park so the boys proceeded to get the fire lit, and we got into doing what we enjoy most – cooking and socialising around the fire. Tried to get some bedding aired out as well.

Kings Canyon - 8139 Km

Woke up hoping to find a bit of sunshine, no such luck. Raced on to Kings Canyon. Despite drizzle occasionally, it was worth it. A lovely climb up the canyon, and walk along the top, dipping down again into another gorge, up the other side. I don't think I can get enough of these gorges. We kept commenting it wasn't as good as Karajini, but it was in a different way. The cloud cover did help, it could have been quite hot otherwise. Checked out the campsite at Kings Canyon, thinking a hot shower might be nice at this stage, but at $19 a site, decided to track back down the road (towards Earnest Giles) and look for a 'free camp'. Pulled off at Salt Creek Rest Area to find a few other campers already there. Oh well, can't always have it to ourselves I suppose. Rain still intermittent. Discovered that when the kitchen back door is up the rain drips through the awning cover, down into the kitchen, bringing with it lots of red dust! Still don't want to go home though. Had a more social dinner under the overhang of Michael's roof topper. I have gained a helper. Rachel and Trevor's daughter, Jamie, loves cooking and is a champion carrot peeler, oh joy Also a very willing 'gofor'. I'm going to make the most of this :)

Gt Central to Yulara

Another early wet start, but still not discouraged. Refuelled at Giles whereupon Malcolm forgave the Warburton Mob for shutting the door in his face. At 30 cents a litre cheaper and with a tank the size of ours that was a considerable saving. Asked when the weather might be clearing, Giles being a meteorological centre, and was told not for a cou ple of days. However, that would mean that we would see Urulu at its most spectacular. By Docker River the road had become a quagmire, slippery, slidy mud bath. Speed reduced to 60 at times, and Max changed colour. Malcolm commented if the rain continued the road would likely be closed. We warned some on coming vehicles of the conditions ahead of them.

As the Olgas, Kata Tjuta, were only 5km off the road, we decided to check them out before heading on to Yulara and trying to find the team. We pulled up in the car pack only to find the teams cars were there. Yea, you should have seen Malcolm's face, he was proud as punch at his driving stamina and catching up so quickly. But it was not as good as the surprise we gave the team when they arrived back at their cars after their walk. Hugs all around, even though we were all wet and cold, and completely 'over' the rainy conditions. We drove on to The Rock and it truly was spectacular. I had no idea there would be waterfalls. Were told it was the best rain they had had for 50 years. It helped us cope with the misery of being wet. After lots of photos and oohs and aahhs, we went into Yulara to look for a camp spot. Queues and queues, so we just fuelled up and headed on to Curtain Springs. On the way there, spotted someone by his Wicked camper stopped at the side of the road. We did the right thing to see if he needed help. Yep, out of fuel, so Michael gave him a lift to Curtin Springs to fill up his jerry and took him back, fortunately only a round trip of 16 km. By the time we stopped at the campsite, it was dark, still raining heavily, muddy and I think I wasn't the only one wondering if I would rather not be there. Even more water in the camper, and it was my half of the doona that was wet. I so wanted to hand the camper back by this time, but that wasn't possible. Nasty damp, icky camper – ugh!

Great Central Road

Got up early, and packed away a wet camper, not very nice, but still eager to catch up with the others. On on through to Menzies, road house closed, so on to Laverton. Fuelled up and made a few calls, trying to sort out the 'legal' issues with Dad's estate. (Just what you need when heading outback with little phone, internet coverage). Started out on the Great Central Road, raining, and very grey, but determined to lessen the distance to the group. Refuelled at Tjukayirla ($2.20) and continued. Road was quite good for most of the way. Saw a few camels and dingos and lots of dead cars, we started counting them. Stopped again at Warburton for fuel on the dot of 5 pm, just as they were locking up shop. They refused to open again and sell us some fuel. You'd think at $2.50 a litre they'd be keen to open up again for another 10 minutes, but in the end they did us a favour. Drove on further stopping at a campsite recommended by Glen called Yarla Kutjarra, but as it was already dark we couldn't appreciate the scenery. Heated our our first meal since getting on the road, yummy. There were a few other campers and Malcolm had a chat to a family in a very nice caravan (with heater) and obviously lots of water as he said they had used 140 litres in 2 days – but there were 2 girls in the family. The thought of a heater sounded a bit over the top to me, but we were quite cold and by this stage the camper was very wet. It had leaked quite a bit during the day as we were driving through rain. Very discouraging, but I think I had sussed out how it was getting not only into the bed area (doona soaked by now) but also into the cupboards.

The Trip

Finally ready to leave, after a short delay, on Sunday July 10. Hit the road at 1:00, well loaded with fuel, water, food and plenty of 'medicine' (read wine and beer). The rain started soon after leaving Mandurah, but we didn't care. Malcolm was determined to catch the rest of the team ASAP, that meant stopping only for fuel and when I couln't 'hold on' any longer. I had baked some bread the day before, so that and a bit of fruit was our only food for the day. Uneventful drive, not much traffic and passed through Kalgoorlie around 9 pm. Decided to push further north for a bit and look for a camp spot at side of road., We pulled up at 10 pm (a good 9 hr drive) and opened the camper for the first time. A bit excited, apprehensive and concerned as it was still raining. Found a bit of water inside the camper, but nothing we could do so went straight to bed.