Sunday 25th Sept -Wednesday 28th Sept

Sunday 25^th September
Woke up nice and dry – bet 'them lot' camped on the top of the mountain weren't, heh, heh. It would seem this is a popular place for breakfast, at least they weren't rangers! Chauffeur was hardly out of bed when 3 cars came down the road. Put Djan down, much to the amazement of the breakfasters, who had a lot of questions and queries. There was a rail track running past here and even a loop with a tunnel through one of the mountains. On hearing the train whistle chauffeur was up and running with the camera to take a photo!! Moving on, ever descending, unbelieving this beautiful countryside can continue for much longer – but it did. We were reminded continually of other locations around the world – from UK, NZ and Canada. Found another lookout, Governors Seat for mornos. Lots of warnings we were on the top of a cliff edge, the vista was awesome. Quite a historical place. Should that be “An historical” place? All good things have to come to an end and we eventually reached some flat stuff, but not long later, bypassing Warick, we saw a few gliders being towed. Pulling in for a bit of a sticky beak and another bite to eat (surely I have to gain a few pounds with all this eating we are doing?) we discovered there was a competition going on. Didn't discover what gliders compete against – height, length of time gliding?? However, it was interesting to watch all these gliders being towed up – didn't do much for my fear of heights! Told chauffeur sure I would do it – if he did (Heh, heh, he doesn't like planes without engines). We're definitely on the level ground now, and leaving the volcanic ranges behind. Camped beside a small river just past Inglewood (on the way to Goondiwindi). Chauffeur cast a few lures, and just before he gave up this poor Yellow Belly latched on. A good couple of pounds, so it was prepped and put in the fridge ready for dinner tomorrow. A few photos, duly emailed to some buddies, and chauffeur went to bed with a smile on his face. XXXX
Monday 26^th September
Fortunately the trucks thundering down the road only a few hundred metres away did stop during the night and we got some good shuteye – I bet chauffeur was dreaming of the bigger one that got away! Set off for Goondiwindi Found a delightful laundrette, as nice as ours in South Perth – with its own ironing lady. Stocked up, well tried to, but the fresh veges hadn't yet arrived, on well, plenty of meat. The delightful man in the info centre told me all about the flood levels in the area. Goondiwindi had been saved by its levee banks (only just) but others towns nearby hadn't, however, the cotton crop since the waters receded has been awesome. Up the road to St George, then pulled up for the night in the 'hamlet' of Bollon. A free camp alongside the creek. Checked out the local first for a 'pot' of beer where the publican was amazed that chauffeur had caught a yellow belly on a lure – apparently the locals can only catch them with yabbies! Nice camp, and even nicer yellow belly for dinner.
Tuesday 27^th Sept
Pushing on to Cunnamulla, landscape becoming rather boring. Very flat, not much too see. This road runs just north of NSW. It was approx 200km and the town also 'very flat', so after a quick lunch at the local cafe set off for another FLAT 200 km run to Thargominda. One of those 'hard' days, not much too see, lots of mileage to cover, on and on, but chauffeur keeps his foot on the pedal and we eventually get there. I am always amazed at these outback towns – WHY – are they there. Actually they usually have some very interesting history and this one certainly does. Its claim to fame being the 3^rd town in the world to have street lighting run by hydro electric power – London, Paris and one day later, Thargominda, nearly 100 years ago. After a sticky beak around the local info centre (was the hospital until 1976) we gave in and went to the local, dare I say it, caravan park. Now if they were all as nice as this one, I wouldn't give them such a bad rap. Saw photos of it a year ago when it was under water – all of this area seems to have suffered from the recent floods. Met some well travelled people who imparted some good info to chauffeur – basically the Simpson Desert is closed. We had heard bits and pieces, knew there were some bush fires around, but not sure of the extent and what roads were closed. To top it off, rain and thunderstorms were forecast. Chauffeur spent the evening googling the web and all the “Road” web sites, it would seem unlikely we would be able to travel the French track along the top of the Simpson Desert. Quick call with Michael – he was travelling down from Townsville, hopefully to meet up with us in Birdsville. Have to wait and see what tomorrow brings.
Wednesday 28^th September
Only a slight sprinkle or rain in the night but the horizon looks ominous and quite gutsy winds as we lowered Djan (did I mean gusty, well they were gutsy as well). Headed off to Innaminka. Now the landscape was more interesting, and varying. Basically scrub, rocky outcrops here and there and despite the dark skies the colours were quite dramatic, grey greens and some very red sands. The lady in the old hospital (info centre) had said if there was more than 10mm of rain during the night the 30km of dirt track could become boggy and become closed. Thargominga to Innamminka is nearly 400 km and to think that there was only one stretch of 30km gravel track was not enough to stop us going to check it out. Fortunately despite the black skies and what looked like a 'front' on the horizon the track was fine. Checked out the Dig Tree – this is the historic tree where some supplies were left buried for Burke and Wills, should they return from their trek north to find the North Coast (Gulf of Carpentaria). Turns out the men they left behind only left this camp 8 hours before B & W returned. Quite a tragic tale, but it would seem that Burke was a bit of a Scott, (Antarctic explorer) and made some careless (rather arrogant) mistakes. Only another 50km we ambled into Innaminka. I really had thought, after all the travel brochure write ups and info sheets, that it would have been a bit more substantial. The only thing substantial was the price of the beer and the amount of people doing what we were doing. Campers galore. However, we had one of the 'moments' of the trip. Halfway through our beer, and chauffeur chatting up the barmaid from Scotland ,the skies opened. Thunder and lightening, it was a true 'show'. The hard dirt everyone was parked on became slippery, sucky, clay (as we found out when we tried to get back to Max). The Innaminka Inn staff were full on digging trenches and a levee at the entrance to keep the water out. The ladies had more water on the floor than in the loo :) It was one of those great times when there is nothing you can do but have another beer and chat to everyone else in the same boat as you (ha ha, I didn't meant that) I think most of us would have seriously thought a boat might have been more useful than a tent at that stage :) Yes, I'm exagerating a bit, but it was interesting. As we were huddled under the old tin verandah one of the bar staff popped his head out to tell the manager (who was playing darts) that the sewage alarm was going off and there was no hot water. Chauffeur was chatting to a pilot (tourist flights over the area) and when the pilot said he might not be able to fly out and would probably be staying the night, I reminded him that he would be having a cold shower then. Eventually we decided that the skies looked a bit lighter and we had better brave it and try to find a dryish spot for the night. Slipping along we got chatting to another couple that had a similar set up to us (The Dogs House). It is a small world – turns out they know 'Darren' – who is the Travelander man. They were also from Woombye and knew Lynn Mabb (Bruce's sister who we stayed with whilst our Travelander was being 'waterproofed'). We eventually found somewhere to stop for the night. Had to reverse out of a track that was quickly becoming uncomfortably 'slippy, slimy, bog). But, we opened up and guess what – Yea, inside was dry!! There are still storms forecast for the night, but we might be lucky and miss them. If not, we will see how waterproof we are whilst opened up.

Thursday 22 - Sunday 25th Sept

Thursday 22^nd September
Packed in the morning, just in time, we had Djan all closed up and were just sitting there innocently looking at maps when the ranger turned up. He waved at us and we drove off :) Were heading to Erin and Jahman's today via Nimbin. More winding roads through almost English countryside. Nimbim must be in the most spectacular green valley. What a waste!! The first shop in town was an opshop “Vinnies”. It must be the nicest one I have ever been in. The ladies running it could have come from a well to do city, but the customers definitely must have fried their brains. Listening to some of their conversations I couldn't believe my ears that these were adults, I don't know if I was 'fascinated' or 'embarassed'! Anyway, on down the street, and it got worse so after a quick lunch we headed on. Found Erin's place in a little bit of paradise. The drive to Coorabel felt like something out of The Hobbit. We had a lovely time catching up with what felt like 'an old friend of the family'. Little Jarman was not so little, and was growing into a bright young lad. Erin lives in a wooden cabin built into the side of a hill, so the front door opens out on to the grass, then you go in and downstairs to the kitchen and bathroom, which also opens out on to the grass. Erin had decorated it with all her creative flare. We had great fun opening out Djan with our remote control, but teasing Jahman into saying 'Abra Ca Dabra” and out it came. His little face was a treat. We had a great night, lots of reminiscing.



Friday 23^rd September
Erin had given us perfect instructions for getting into Byron Bay, but forgot to mention just how busy it is – worse than trying to get into Freo. Never mind, it was a must see, being to close. We found some free parking and walked up to the lighthouse (previously done 30 years ago). I like their environmental ploy. If you park at the bottom at a little beach called Wategos, it is free. If you drive up to the Lighthouse you have to pay to park. A little sign at the top congratulated walkers for being environmentally friendly. Halfway down we were entertained by some whales breaching in the waves and then after a picnic on the beach we decided to brave the crowds to get to the info centre in town (we were looking for a tap to fill up Djan with water). Drove around the corner and passed a familiar HiLux and what was attached to the back but the Theunessons Kimberley Kamper. We pulled up and I phoned Rachel, to find out where they were. Turns out just back at the beach, having a BBQ. We walked back, via the toilets where I nearly surprised Jamie out of her skin as she opened the door and bumped into me. After much catching up, we got into the Info Centre and then sidetracked into the Railway Hotel for a quick bevvy with our buddies.Unfortunately they were heading south and we were going West, so we said our goodbyes and were off again. We camped in the Nightcap National Park. The scenery just gets better, so I wont ooooh and aaaah again. But it was good.



Saturday 24^th September
As Erin had told me Jahman had walked up the top of Mt Warning and we had seen quite a few glimpses of it whilst driving around we decided it was on our list to do today. It is the tallest peak around here (maybe one of) at 1156 m. It is 4.4 km to the top and the same back down again. Quite a wiggely drive to get there and a tight squeeze for parking on arrival. These mountains never have nice flat open carparks at the bottom (a bit like Sunshine skiing area outside Banff). With our water, fruit and peanuts, off we went. The signs say to allow for 4-5 hours. It started with lots of steps, but the rainforest was thick and kept us in the shade. A very different type of rainforest, lots of Bangalow Palms. The steps became more of a scramble over rocks and tree roots. Up and on and Up and On. There were nice signs that told you every 1 km how far you had gone and how much further to the top, phew. The last .4km is a climb up a rock face. Fortunately they had chipped ourta few toe holds and put in a chain railing. Would still have been managable without, but it helped. The view from the top of the volcanic plug would have been great on a clear day, but there were a few clouds, so we couldn't quite make out the coast, but it was worth every minute of sweat to get there. The trek down is always the hardest (on the legs) and by 2 km down my knees were complaining, by 3 km down I had Campanile Knee (what I get when I climb the church towers (campaniles) in Italy. By 4km I was walking like a cripple :) It didn't help when chauffeur reminded me in my youth I had run up (and down) Mt Snowdon. What did he expect, I am no longer in my youth, and don't have a problem admitting to middle age! He might be superman and only be suffering from a blistered toe! Found a couple of yummy pies in Uki (honestly, what kind of a name for a village is that I ask you) which revived us and we drove through the Border Ranges National Park. Back up over 1100 m but in Dmax this time. Couple of major lookouts that we had to check out, I must have looked a sight – knees were not doing what they are meant to do (ie bend) it must have been a strange hobble, if anyone was looking. This whole area is a volcanic caldera with Mt Warning in the middle. I just love it – shame the knees don't agree with me. The campspot was full, at least the level ones were so we drove on hoping to find something else. There was a nice carpark for a picnic area, still in the Border Ranges, but not meant for camping, but it was dusk by this stage, so you do what you have to do. Heard a bit of thunder and wind during the night – bet it was right on the top of the mountain where we hadn't been able to find anything level :)
Sunday 25^th September
Woke up nice and dry – bet they weren't on the top, heh, heh. It would seem this is a popular place for breakfast, at least they weren't rangers! Put Djan down, much to the amazement of the breakfasters, who had a lot of questions and queries. There was a rail track running past here and even a loop with a tunnel through one of the mountains. On hearing the train whistle chauffeur was up and running with the camera to take a photo!! Moving on, ever descending, unbelieving this beautiful countryside can continue for much longer – but it did. We were reminded continually of other locations around the world – from UK, NZ and Canada. Found another lookout, Governors Seat for mornos. Lost of warnings we were on the top of a cliff edge, the vista was awesome. Quite a historical place. Should that be “An historical” place? All good things have to come to an end and we eventually reached some flat stuff, but not long later, bypassing Warick, we saw a few gliders being towed. Pulling in for a bit of a sticky beak and another bite to eat (surely I have to gain a few pounds with all this eating we are doing?) we discovered there was a competition going on. Didn't discover what gliders compete against – height, length of time gliding?? However, it was interesting to watch all these gliders being towed up – didn't do much for my fear of heights! Told chauffeur sure I would do it – if he did (Heh, heh, he doesn't like planes without engines). Were definiately on the level ground now, and leaving the volcanic ranges behind. Camped beside the a small river just past Inglewood (on the way to Goondiwindi). Chauffeur cast a few lures, and just before he gave up this poor Yellow Belly latched on. A good couple of pounds, so it was prepped and put in the fridge ready for dinner tomorrow. A few photos, duly emailed to some buddies, and chauffeur went to bed with a smile on his face. XXXX

Friday 16th - Wed 21st Sept

Friday – off to the beach. A ferry over to Cooloola, or something like that. If you look at a map it would appear to be the mainland continuation (south) of Fraser Island. Because of it being school holidays we had been reluctant to do Fraser Island, and waiting 2 weeks for the kids to go back to school was going to prove difficult so this was a good alternative. It certainly had miles and miles of beach driving. Chauffeur was breathalised just before the ferry (and then again as we were driving south along the beach – they certainly take things seriously here, but then we have heard there have been some idiots on the beach). Anyway, we had a lovely day despite the fact that the fish weren't hungry that day. No wind, blue skies, white sand – perfect eh? Picked up a chook from Woolies for dinner and we were happy.
Saturday saw us pick up our Djan, whoo hoo. Hopefully, fingers crossed, it will stay dry in the rain, we will see. Certainly, Travelander seemed confident the leaks had been sorted. A quick repack at Lynn and Greg's and sad goodbyes, and we were heading south to Brisbane. Janelle and Gary, friends we had met in Calgary were awaiting us. I just love the way you can meet up with people you haven't seen for years, and things just continue as if there has been no time lapse. It certainly seem that way with the Dutton's. Made to feel very welcome and even met another friend of theirs who had been in Calgary as well so needless to say there was a lot of Canadian reminiscences. Yet another great time and Monday we headed out to Toowoomba to catch up with 'family', Tony, my Dad's cousin, and his wife Hillary. We took the scenic route East and drove over some very mountainous landscape, unfortunately there have been quite a lot of fires around, and the visibility was poor, to say the least, so I think we probably missed some great views, but you can't have it all, all the time.
Tony and Hillary, were yet again, fantastic hosts, and we had a wonderful time catching up on family history, with some hilarious insights into our 'ancestry'. One of their grandsons was staying, so we again had the enjoyment of a youngster around, plus their dog “Daffy” the daschund was quite a character. Fortunately, Lil, another hound in our family, had trained us well, and we put up with no nonsense. With some 'local resident' directions we headed out on Tuesday to explore Toowoomba. We were quite impressed with the place 30 years ago, and it was still good – despite the tragic floods earlier this year. Most impressive was the Cobb and Co museum, where I learnt to braid a whip and belt, and the Spring Bluff Railway Station – had been devastated during the flood, but you would never know now.
Wednesday September 21^st and we are finally back on the road proper. I think Djan was beginning to feel a bit left out. We haven't slept out in her for 9 nights. It is lovely staying with friends and family in a real house, but it has been a great evening cooking outside and getting 'back to normal'. After leaving Toowoomba we drove South. Not far out the village of Nobby 'distracted' us. Signs of Rudds Pub got out attention. Thinking this might be one of those pubs in the “Australian Bush Pubs” book we pulled in. No it wasn't, but Rudd, who wrote Dad and Dave, used to live here. It certainly deserves a place in the book, character, memorabilia everywhere, but unfortunately at 10:00 in the morning, we weren't interested in a beer or two. However, they sold stickers, so with one in my paw, we took off. This countryside, the Darling Downs, is beautiful. Lots of farms, but rolling hills, and the odd volcano 'plug' sticking up. Lunch at Urbenville – can't believe these little villages, so isolated, but such atmosphere. We are trying to get hold of a friend of Ben's – Erin, who lives not far inland from Byron Bay, we believe. Heading up a mountain in a National Park to camp for the night – we have severe withdrawal symptoms of the bush, having been in towns for a few nights now, we came upon a large branch which had fallen across the track. Usually there is a track around these obstacles, but this must have been recent, and we were on the top of a ridge, there was no way around this, so the axe and machete came out. Can I do anything I asked, as I started to make myself a cup of tea. Yes, came the reply, grab one of these (axe or machete) and make yourself useful!!! Well, I tapped away, trying to be helpful, but wasn't able to make much headway, other than chop through some of the mound of vines and creepers that were wrapped around the main branch. Chauffeur soon had chopped through enough of the branch for us to drag enough of it to the sides of the track and we could continue. Eventually found the camp, only to read a sign that said the camp clearing was closed. The track here was at least 25km and no where had it said the camp at the end was closed!! Oh well, weren't heading back now this late in the arvo, so we followed the track a bit further to a parking clearing and have settled in for the night. Still lovely – just a clearing in the middle of Tunumbar National Park. The birds are very noisy, and we have seen lots of small marsupials (smaller than a Wallaby) jumping across the track – bet they ferret around Max and Djan tonight. Oh yes, finally found the source of the nasty niff in the kitchen area – a broken egg, eugh! Unfortunately, it has made the egg box a bit niffy as well, but I have no where else to store the eggs, so will have to eat them up quick. Glad Chris isn't with us, feeding him eggs would produce an even bigger nastier niff!! XXXX

4th Sept - 16 Sept

Sunday 4^th September Tully Gorge – Mt Fox
It rained all night, but what a place. Have been nursing a headache since Noah's beach – think it might be the weather. Despite the mist, rain etc. you can't help but be moved by the beauty of it. Couldn't handle it for long though. Watched a couple not far away pack up their tent (Tassie number plates) in the wet. Hmmm, although we are wet as well, glad we don't have a tent or a manual camper. I know it is my warped sense of humour, but long raincoats with shorts underneath does look funny. We'd cooked inside last night, and had enough water to make coffee inside as well, oh what a treat. Eventually set off further up the gorge, the trees becoming more and more like sticks with ivy on them. At the top we found a hydro electric plant and a white water rafting group of guides waiting for their 'tourists'. We stopped and chatted in the fat israeli weather. No, it doesn't stop up here apparently, this is the norm. Well, I guess for a hydro electric plant and white water rafting to be here, there has to be rain. Now I know I am 'growing up' (no, not getting old) because 20 years ago I would have been begging Malcolm please please can we join in as well. But I was quite content to chat and watch, and very glad to get back into a nice dry Dmax and head back down the gorge. The tour guide confirmed to me that the bare tree trunks were indeed all that was left of the rainforest before Cyclone Yasi hit earlier this year, in fact where we standing which was very open and exposed had been completely undercover of the forest. Driving back down the gorge and now knowing that these 'strange' trees were indeed the result of the cyclone impacted me all the more. Whew, what a scarey, noisey, catastrophe it must have been. The guide, a local from Mission Beach, reckoned it would take 50 years for the upper storey of the forest to return to its former size. Next on the list of 'falls' to visit was Australia's highest, Mullaman Falls . If I thought we had found Henry's No.1 drive before this one out did it. More devastation as we wound our way up and up. Then suddenly we seemed to be out of the rainforest 'stalks' and into gum trees. How interesting. Didn't think we would ever get there, but we did, and were rewarded with a feast for the eyes. I always think when it is wet and grey it is a real bummer, but in this case it meant the falls were surrounded by swirling mists, ever changing. So although it wasn't really the type of weather to lounge around and take it in, we made our lunch and walked out on to the viewing platform, and it was well worth it. One of the most common sights we have seen all the way from Perth is the amount of, mostly, cow poop in the middle of the road. And even driving up here, yes you guessed it, poop, in the middle of the road. Mind you, one side of the road, was the upside of the mountain, the other side was a vertical drop so where else would you poop,but why do the cows want to go up there (over 700m) – I thought the grass was greener on the other side of the fence, not at the top of the mountain. Michael had commented earlier in NT that these Brahmin cows looked gormless. Anyway, back down the mountain through Trebonne, near Ingham and back up another mountain to Mt Fox. Another rewarding drive – this was all with a view to keep away from the coast and tourist areas. This certainly was a locals only drive and we loved it. Found Mt Fox to discover it was called Mt Fox Crater. Eventually found somewhere to camp after driving around the mountain, literally. Nipple Hill. I guess we were up on a plateau, and up rose this pointed mound. Took quite a while to find a level spot – think Djan is shrinking, at least it is not opening out fully, the floor is at a slight angle and the supporting legs aren't quite long enough to reach the ground, so we have to park with Dmax on the level, but against a slight rise to lower Djan on to. (hopefully it will get fixed next week).



Monday 5^th September – Mt Fox to Charters Towers
Climbing boots on first thing and up the 'nipple' we climbed. Over 800mt at the top. A bit of a steep scramble over lots of loose lava rocks and scrubby bushes. Once at the top we looked down into the 'crater'. Headache not improving, and the gusty wind not blowing the 'cobwebs' away, but it was worth it for the view. A long drive into Charters Towers. What a quaint, very historical town. Missed the op shop, closed at midday, as we first had to visit O'Brien's windscreen repairs. One of the hundreds of road trains thundering towards us had kicked up a stone and we had quite a chip. Lunch in a nice park with a vege van on the side. He was from Atherton, so we had a nice chat and stocked up on some Tablelands grown veges and fruit. Ended up camping a few Kms to the East of town, after a fruitless 150Km circle of a wild goose chase trying to find a Basalt Wall in a NP. The free camp out of town, was just beside a nice river but sandwiched in between a railway line and the major road out of town at which there were roadworks.



Tuesday 6^th September – Charters Towers – Theresa Creek Dam, Nr Clermont
Not a quiet night. Top that off with the worst stage of headache (most painful laying down) I was rather fragile and grumpy in the morning. Managed to get going somehow – chauffeur keeping out of my way :-). Back roads again, which normally we prefer, but doesn't make coping with the headache any easier. We made our way to Burdekin Dam. Although it was an official campsite, it was quite deserted, and I wished we had pushed on yesterday and spent the night here. A huge dam, (popular fishing spot) we will have to come back to QLD with a tinny. To get to the other side you actually drive across the bottom of the dam wall, quite unusual and visually dramatic. We eventually came to a place in the middle of nowhere that only seemed to have a little bush pub. (Will have to check with Michael if it is in the Pub 'Bible'). Chauffeur convinced me that a little tipple at lunch time might be just the medicine I needed – well it couldn't make things worse I decided so in we went. It turns out Mt Coolon was once QLD's largest gold producing area. It was one of those 'history' places, that had the obligatory tipsy local holding up the bar (not quite midday when we walked in). Turns out there was still a gold mine there and he was one of the workers!! Chauffeur was right, 2 ciders later, the medicine had numbed the worst of the headache and I felt well enough to be 'civil' again. Unfortunately it was still a long drive on bumpy roads to Clermont where we got directions to Theresa Creek Dam campsite. I had to chuckle, despite feeling most unwell, as the lady from Lancashire in the information centre asked me what scent I was wearing as I smelt so nice. Having been on the hot and dusty road for 2 months, the showers have been infrequent, and most nights come down to a bowl of water, and wet wipes in the morning with the occasional swim in a creek. She was quite amused when I told her it was my lemon myrtle insect repellent. We found Theresa Creek Dam, and no sooner had we set up than visitors arrived – the feathery kind. Lorikeets, obviously used to campers, alighted all over me much to my delight. They stood on the top of the kitchen cupboard, leaning over chauffeur as he sliced up our dinner. They would have been inside Djan if I had let them. After watching the kookaburras steal Trev's weetbix at Lake Tinaroo, I kept a watchful eye on them.



Wednesday 7^th September – Theresa Creek Dam – Baralaba
Another bad night, feel absolutely exhausted, but feel like the headache monster is going to get back in its box today. This area of QLD is very much the 'gem' centre. A little south and we drove through Sapphire. Yippee, I found the quaintest Op shop and delighted the ladies in there when I told them I had a birthday party to go do and needed to find something smart to wear. I did find a $1 top so did chauffeur. We will wear them with pride to Bruce's 60^th on Saturday. Further on we found Emerald. There is a huge painting on an easel (about 10 m high) in a park with a painting of Van Gogh's sunflowers, quite impressive. A few more groceries whilst chauffeur made some phone calls to find a dentist (he is missing half a tooth) and to book Dmax in for another service. Is it really 10,000 Km since Darwin. Spent the night at another water hole in Baralaba. The monster is back in its box, although the lid not quite shut yet. Anyone who suffers with headaches will know what I am talking about. Camped next to an old guy that seemed to know all the good camping hidey holes, so he advised us of a 'spot' for tomorrow night.



Thursday 7^th September – Baralaba – Ban Ban Springs
Yippee, finally a proper sleep and I think the lid is locked. I am back in the land of the living and glad to be here. Chugging on through beautiful QLD, Banana, Theodore (where I washed my hair in the park in the middle of town), Cracow, Eidsvold. Who thinks of these names. Chauffeur thinks it must be a bible belt as we have only passed one pub (that was in Cracow and it was the only thing there). Eidsvold delighted me with a little op shop that had a pair of white trousers that fit me!!! So now I can go to the party with a 'new' top and trousers that don't need to be held up with a belt. Did have to pay $2 for them. Next stop was Gayndar which holds the title of Oldest town in QLD. Stuck between the choice of 2 pubs, one on each corner of the main cross roads in town, a passing local advised us which one to go to. As they had XXXX Bitter on tap chauffeur didn't complain, neither did I when I saw that they had cider on tap as well. We had to come for a drink as we needed small change. This is the roadside fruit stall area where they usually have honesty boxes. I don't think we would be believed if we were caught raiding one of these boxes for change for a $50 note so we could get a bag of oranges. Another op shop produced a nice pair of shorts for chauffeur and a pair of sandals for me. So far I have spent $9 on our 'party ware' and believe it or not they are all brand new! Hmm, Gympie tomorrow, wonder if an op shop will provide a $1 belt just in case my trousers get a bit loose. Ban Ban Springs is a gem. We are parked up on a level bit of grass (the odd cow poop around :-) and a fast running creek a stone's throw away. Another couple here assured me there are no crocs around, so we hightailed it into the water before the sun went down. Smartened my chauffeur up with a haircut and beard trim – we should look semi-respectable to catch up with Bruce and Judy tomorrow. Xxxx



Friday 10^th – Friday 16^th September
What a week, most of it under a proper roof :-) have had full coverage all the time and I haven't been near the comp. Arrived at The Farm. This is the 30 acres that Bruce and his sister, Lynn, grew up on. Lynn and her husband Greg now live here (in a beautiful new house that Greg built). Got here early afternoon and Greg took Malcolm out the back to choose a spot in the paddock to open up the camper. Slowly more friends and family arrived. What a great family, but it was very hard remembering names and who belonged to who. Especially as Judy went to school with some of Bruce's cousins. Lovely people. There is a train track not far away, so the trains trundled through during the night stirring childhood memories for chauffeur. By Saturday afternoon, there were more kids (Bruce's) and grandkids than you can shake a stick at. But being such a large place, verandah's on all sides, beautiful views, people just blended. It also meant there were plenty of hands to get involved in the roasting of the meat over a spit. It took a bit longer than planned, but there was so much food around no one was wasting away. Many people sleeping over, there must have been mattresses all over the floors, but we were tucked up snugly in Djan (chauffeur had to don beany as it was a crisp night). Djan also had company as another couple Fay and 'Slippo' came over in their huge bus and parked nearby. It was nice to check out someone else's 'home away from home'. They are more experienced than us and have spent years travelling. Alan (otherwise known as Slippo) had refurbished the inside of their home. Not only was he a diesel mechanic and had rebuilt all the engine/working parts, he was obviously a dab handyman with the furniture side of things as well. Fay was interested to check out our Djan and as she had worked for a company making marquees, could see why we were possibly getting leaks.
We eventually dragged ourselves out of bed on Sunday morning to find a huge BBQ breakfast underway. No chance of going hungry. By lunch time the numbers had dwindled to just 'family' and after a lunch of cold meats and salads, there was just a handful. Believe it or not we still found room to eat dinner, but it was an early night for most of us – 60 year olds just can't take the pace any more!
Bruce and Judy were leaving to fly back to Perth on Monday and after saying goodbye to them, we took our Djan down to the Travelander workshop, which unbelievably is 10 minutes away. Lynn and Greg have made us feel part of their family, and invited us to stay (under their roof – not in the paddock) whilst Djan is being repaired. After such a busy weekend, with so many people to cater for, I felt they must surely be glad to get rid of everyone and have their place back to themselves, but they are quite insistant we stay even though it looks like it might take until the end of the week before we can pick it up.
Tuesday Malcolm had a dental appt.. No problems, tooth fixed with no major drama. Talk about a small world, the receptionist there was from Lesmurdie – lived near the school that the boys had gone to on Falls Road. Drove up to Noosa Heads for a bit of a sticky beak, as we had been there over 27 years ago. Despite it being unrecognisable other than the mouth of the river, it is still lovely. At one point, chauffeur commented “Why are we living in Perth??” Talking about mouth's, the dentist must have thought chauffeur was a bull, and injected him with enough anesthetic to numb one for a week. Five hours later he was still dribbling and speaking as if he had been on the 'juice' all day. I wasn't very sympathetic, it was quite amusing. Our hosts, Greg and Lynn, are great company and obviously like minded – love the Ozzie bush, fishing, camping etc, so the evenings are spent swapping stories.
Wednesday, it was D'Max's turn for attention and we took him off for the 20,000km service. This time it was the Ford dealer who Isuzu sent their ute's to for work. After our 'experience' in Darwin, we were ready to be given a bit of a run around. But no, this mob have their act together and were very professional and experienced with Isuzu's. Know all about the squeal coming from the wheels (apparently a common fault, and a work in progress to improve it). We took the courtesy bus into town and spent the day meandering up the river. In fact had breakfast sitting along side a small creek and after throwing my prune stones into the water were amazed to see quite a lot of bream swimming around. Also what might have been a large mullet – 40/50cm long. The Maroochydore river mouth is an angler's delight, so many bays, sand banks, deep flowing channels, quite a few people fishing, so chauffeur chatted them up checking out what was biting etc. After half an hour lazing on the sand watching the surfing, dogs playing etc. we wandered up to the surf club for mornos. Greg had been an avid lifesaver in his earlier years (what young Ozzie lad living by the coast wasn't) and he had reminisced many of his mis-adventures as a lad. Surf clubs here are quite something – pokies, restaurant etc. Later on found us having a burger at the Pig and Whistle with a beer and a cider whilst watching one of the World Cup rugby games, before being picked up by our courtesy bus to collect D'Max.
Thursday, chauffeur was having 4x4 withdrawal symptoms so it was off to a beautiful forest about an hour's drive south of Woombye, and we ooooh'd and arrrr'd all day over the glass house mountains, views over dams, rolling green hillsides, rainforest, giant cedars, etc. Pictureque perfect. Driving back through Maleny and Montville we were enchanged by the unique little townships, touristy, but lovely all the same. Back 'home' in the evening for yet another lovely evening with our hosts.XXXX

noahs beach 1st sept to tully gorge 3rd sept 18618km

Thursday 1^st September Noah's Beach – off the Bloomfield Track in the Daintree
Packed up quite a wet camper and continued on. Checked out Oliver's Creek. A delightful boardwalk in the Daintree. Some amazing trees, strangler figs, lawyer cane creepers etc. Although it is incredible stuff, you could believe it is the inspiration behind the creativity of movies like Avotar, whether it is the gloomy weather that usually accompanies this vegetation or the closed in claustrophobic feel I don't know – it certainly doesn't 'uplift' me. Was quite glad to cross the ferry and get out of it into the open spaces where there are 'views'. We drove into Daintree, very pretty little town, found some open grass and opened up our campers to dry them off whilst we made lunch. On into Mossman to check out the gorge. Again, lots of tourists, closed in rainforest, but very pretty river/gorge. Some interesting placquards – didn't know the saw-shelled turtle can breath out of its bottom! Had a chuckle at that one, might have to make some comment about that next time chauffeur eats beans. Also dragonflies, the giant petalurid can have a wing span of 16cm, live as lavae under water for a couple of years before morphing into the dragon, then it is all over in a couple of months! Also 40% of this area's water doesn't come directly from rain, but from the forest drawing water directly out of the clouds – amazing stuff. Stayed in a miserable CP in Mossman, not very far from a sugar factory, that must work 24hrs a day – it droned on all night. Had bad dreams about it producing 'illicit' spam undercover of darkness (I mean that nasty tinned ham stuff). Whilst in the Mossman Gorge carpark got talking to another couple that had a Piggyback Camper. We had looked at that on the internet before deciding on our Djan. They had already set up at the CP and we passed them as we parked up. They (and their fellow travellers) were straight over to see how long it took to set Djan up. We got the thumbs up, Djan and the remote control impressed all :-). Discovered we had lost our fellow travellers as well, they had decided to push on and not stay overnight in Mossman.



Friday 2^nd September 18197 Mossman to Kuranda
The drive up to Kuranda has to be the No 1 best Henry drive yet. Miles of windy steep uphills, chauffeur would have been in his element behind the wheel of his little red Triumph. Arriving in Kuranda we had to check out the station. Think we were last here 26 and a bit years ago (Ben was a bun in the oven and he will be 27 in a week). It will be interesting to compare the 'then and now' photos. Had a good natter to the girl behind the gift shop counter, she was amazed to know that as a young lad chauffeur had lived on a railway platform. Neville the station master (definitely not a fat controller) let chauffeur into the signal box – I have just asked chauffeur for his thoughts on 'the experience' and he just said to me “Hmmm, it smelt too clean, not oily enough”. What can I add to that. I eventually managed to drag him away (100 photos later) to check out the town. Op shop closed minutes before I got there, and the rest of the place was too touristy. Were debating whether to check out the camping site where Ben had stayed 6 years ago and got 2 weeks free camping for painting their cleaning van. However, discovered there was a bush camp 25km up the road near a waterfall and that seemed more pleasing. The weather had cleared up, some lovely falls and swimming holes that we checked out before we set up camp. Thumbs up all around, especially as it didn't rain overnight.



Saturday 3^rd September Kuranda – Tully Gorge
Leaving Davies Creek, I found a local produce shop, selling fresh coffee, I succombed, even though I had already had my morning 'fix'. What a treat. We drove through Atherton again, still a nice town, then headed out to Yungaburra, quite a characterful historic village – little wooden houses, and pub etc. Walked around the river there, where there are often platypus sightings, but they were all tucked up in bed for the day, only a couple of turtles on the rocks. Weather closed in again as we continued on to check out the waterfalls in the area – Millaa Millaa, and a couple of others. We were amazed at the amount of farms for sale. The tablelands is so like some areas of NZ. Began to feel a bit 'down' and thought it must be the rainy weather. However, driving down hill towards the coast began to recognise why the trees looked so strange. The trees seemed such funny shapes, very angular, but everything very green. I think it must be cyclone damage. Most of the canopy blown away, or badly damaged, and since then the creepers, suddenly getting so much sun exposure, they have gone berserk. So although the trees are green, it is the 'understorey' growth that has taken over covering up the bare trunks. When we got down to a place called Silkwood the devastation was obvious – lots of old houses with new tin roofs. Mission Beach was a bit further on, and it was depressing (beaches never look inviting in bad weather anyway) but broken trees, lots of houses for sale. We played a game 'spot an old/original roof', not many. Further south, through rain, low cloud and mist, we drove through Tully. Two massive industrial chimney stacks (from the Tully Sugar Mill) poured out their own clouds and did nothing to lift our spirits as we drove inland up Tully Gorge. I think this place would be quite beautiful if the weather improves. We drove through miles of banana plantations, hopefully they get a bumper crop, and lovely glimpses of Tully River. Quite a large fast flowing river with a bit of white water in places. Have found the campground, only a couple of other vehicles camping here. We set up Djan hastily and retreated inside. The sound of the rapids on the river is very soothing, but there is a drizzle continuing (a heavy Israeli). Fingers crossed it might ease overnight, although the forecast is for showers until Monday. Oh well, I'd better get my glass of wine and cheer myself up :-)