Tuesday 18th October to Tuesday 25th October

Tuesday 18^th October
Last night, relaxing around the fire, with full tummies I spotted a 'shooting star', alias satellite. The boys didn't believe me, where, I can't see it they claimed. No sooner had I pointed it out, when I saw another one. Blow me down I just sat down again when there was another one. Within minutes chauffeur's eyes acclimatised and he spotted one. Michael, determined not to be outdone, started concentrating and sure enough within 5 minutes we had seen 5! All going in similar directions, west to east, varying slightly on the northward track. A nice morning and we had more tracks to explore on the southern part of the peninsula. Pottering around we got to Spectacular Beach. It certainly was, and even though nothing attached itself to chauffeur's lure we could hardly be disappointed. Was getting a bit worried as we hadn't seen our hitchiker for a day or so – please don't let him be floating upside down in our water tank. We can't help ourselves checking out our water bottles when we refill them for any 'floaties' and checking the taste for 'extra' flavours! Eventually we had to press on and leave the beach. Whilst lunching I heard cries from chauffeur – he could see Kermit's feet. We all charged round to the side and chauffeur managed to get a piece of wire in behind our little buddie and encouraged him to jump out. Once safely on my hand Michael declared him to be a baby Cane Toad!! Hmmm, must google that one and see what they look like. Anyway, Coffin Bay, didn't have any rivers so we thought we had better keep him with us for a tad longer, so he was lovingly given some of his familiar water and put in our foot bucket. Checked out a few more beaches and enviously watched a few other keen fishermen and we decided to set up camp behind some dunes. Chauffeur did manage to lure us a nice feed so at least he didn't have to sulk.
Wednesday 19^th October
Up and on the road early as we weren't really in a 'legal' spot. Headed back into the delightful little village of Coffin Bay itself and had morno's beside the jetty. Talking to a 'local' she confirmed it is a sleepy little village of about 300 for most of the year until the summer when it swells to about 3000. Up the road about 150 Kms to Elliston with the hope of a nice fish lunch. What a disappointment. No where to buy seafood other than in the pub. So we ordered a seafood platter and after a bit of discussion decided it wasn't worth eating and politely told the kitchen that it was one of the worst bits of fish we had eaten. They did the right thing and gave us our money back. If I had a business, I would want to know. Over the road to the bakery and it wasn't much better. Another slog up the road and we camped at Tractor Beach (Camp 6 bush camp). Beach very weedy (with old rusted wreck of a tractor at side of track) and more flies than our camp last year with Glen at Murchison. Now Glen would probably find that hard to believe (that there could be more flies). Not only that there were very thirsty bees. So dinner was a bit of a race – didn't feel like sharing. Found a scorpion under my chair. It rained quite heavily during the night.
Thursday 20^th October
Packed up a wet camper, can't complain, don't have to do it very often. Streaky Bay for morno's. It was a record day – only 39Km covered. Nice little town – tick of approval from me as it had an op shop so I could do my charity bit for the town. Found some great shorts on the kids rack. Checked into the CP right on the beach and as we pulled up fish were jumping out of the water. Chauffeur jumped out of the car and got rigged up. I set up Djan and busied myself with the domestics. Half of WA is here – chatted to a Nannup lady in the laundry. Conversed with a couple from Dudley Park later on – is there anyone left over in the West? We walked the kilometer along the foreshore into town to check out the pub that had come with high recommendations from Trevor. We were impressed to find that 2 beers and a glass of wine in happy hour came to $11. Made sure we got another round in before we went through to the bistro. Did well there as well, sharing a plate of 3 fillets of whiting (we didn't need to return this lot to the kitchen). The salad bar and hot vegetables caused me a problem through – pigged out and literally waddled back to camp. Don't know how chauffeur and Michael managed to squeeze in a serve of Sticky Date Put as well. Found myself listening to a new bird call during the night. Most unusual to hear birds at night, and this one kept going all night. Forgot to mention, Michael had emailed a friend who knew about 'birds' and told him about chauffeur 's Vol-au-vent bird. He emailed back with an identical recording – it is called a Peaceful Dove - you know what – it is not peaceful at 4:30am!!
Friday 21^st October
Decided we should have a coffee in the bakery before we left town. They had the largest lamingtons I had ever seen! Lady in there asked me if I was English as I sounded like the Queen!!!!! Chauffeur suggested Michael check out the local 'electronics' shop, to see if he could upgrade his radio from 40 to 80 stations. The grumpy old man in there soon warmed up when he realised he had a captive audience and he proceeded to tell 'my lads' all the details of the lightening strike the town's mast had received a few weeks ago – we had heard about it on the radio. I pottered back up to the op shop to see if the little silicone dish was still there. Yep, it was mine (think it might be the perfect size to make my sun dried tomatoe and cashew pate) and I trotted back down the road to rescue the boys. Up the road on the seafood trail still to Smoky Bay. Found the oyster sheds and purchased a couple of dozen fresh from the baskets, just beached that morning. Got set up at a picnic table, poured out some wine and turned round to look for chauffeur. No where to be found. Well there was this black hulk stood next to us – it was chauffeur covered in a blanket of the biggest mozzies I have ever seen – they must have emigrated from Mandurah – and grown on the way. Picked every thing up and trapsed over the road onto the beach. Our only threat there were 3 pelicans! The boys knuckled down to some serious shucking, the 'master' giving Michael a lesson. In no time I had the bread sliced, buttered, lemon cut and we were hoeing in – the pelicans eyeing us hungrily – they had no chance. Being gluttons we continued on to Ceduna. Found a CP right behind the local pub ( seafood restaurant) and made the best of the happy hour again whilst chatting to a very nice kiwi couple who kept chauffeur company whilst the rugby was on the big screen. Food again delicious. Whilst supping some of Michael's Penfold's Port in Djan (the boys on the chairs and me perched up on the bed) checked out the forecast for the next few days. Not good at all – storms and rain for the next few days. So be it.
Saturday 22^nd October
Not exactly sun shining but no rain, and not cold so we pressed on to Fowler's Bay. Bit of an ordinary drive through farmland. The odd tiny little one room stone church dotted around. Got down to Fowlers and enquired (as you do) at the kiosk. The kiosk lady also sounded like the Queen and was very helpful. Yes, the fishing was good, her 'boys' had just caught a good feed, so with instructions to stay 'high' on the beach – as the flat stuff is not so hard (lots of seaweed underneath) we were off. Decided to short cut over the dunes (just to keep Michael happy). It sure did – he thought they were wonderful. I concentrated on my Sudoko – some of the angles didn't agree with me, even though it was very picturesque. The beach scored high on the WOW factor although there was haze on the horizon. Soon spotted some young lads with those rod things in their hands and we proceeded to watch them reel in a very good sized salmon. That was it, chauffeur was out of the car and the race was on to get rigged up. I set about organising some lunch. Unfortunately the 'new' braided line chauffeur bought (on special at Anaconda) maybe is not so good. On casting out his new lure the line snapped – don't think this was the first time. Seem to remember a few grumbles about the seaguls stealing his bate, and losing his only lure when he had walked a mile from the car. By the time he was set up again the tide had changed and nothing was biting. In the meantime Michael and gone for a sticky beak further along the beach to check out our camping spot. Didn't take long before he radioed me saying there was a vehicle and trailer bogged up to the axles. He was going in to help. After much digging and laying down the maxtrax he radioed to say he was coming back to borrow ours. I went off to inform chauffeur of the events. We were just about to call back to say we would come down to help as well, when Michael told us they were out and he was continuing. We followed shortly ,for 6km until beach ran out and we turned into the dunes and chose a reasonably close campsite (so that chauffeur could walk his rods down to the surf:) The mist really closed in to a pea souper, quite eerie, but we were alone and it was very peaceful. The fishing was not successful, but the entertainment from the seals was good – it is obviously a great game for them to steal the bait. Fortunately they didn't get hooked. Skies getting darker.
Sunday 23^rd October
Quite heavy rain during the night. Chauffeur had a good skid in the mud whilst trotting off to find a bush. Managed to decamp before the skies opened. After all the bad forecasts we were still waiting for the storms. So we were off across the Nullarbor. Still plenty of trees – weather threatening here and there. Called in to the Head of Australian Bight. Quite a special place, cliffs to the West and sand dunes to the East. Two southern right whales played with their calves just below the viewing platforms. The wind threatened to lift me off my feet as I struggled to make lunch. With the quarantine checkpoint coming up at the border I was gobbling up our fruit and veges, no way was I going to get anything taken off me and the thought of camping there whilst we ate everything didn't appeal either. Our Camps 6 book has been such a great help and we had 'earmarked' a couple of places to pull up for the night away from the Eyre Highway. The first one proved satisfactory and although there were already a couple of vans there, there was plenty of space. Had a good chat with the 'neighbours' chauffeur discreetly enquiring if they had satellite (Rugby final on). Funnily enough they voted the Streaky Bay Bakery the best lamington makers (the large ones I had spied). Unfortunately they didn't have satellite but we didn't go without entertainment. The forecast storms were on the horizon. OMG – I thought those black rolling storm clouds on the Hollywood movies were 'engineered'. Guess what, they look just like that in real life. Ominous is an understatement. We raced around packing up the kitchen and getting 'battened down' (as my dear dad would have said). Fortunately I had already cooked up all the veges that we couldn't eat tomorrow, and got them ready to freeze. These black demonic clouds rolled over the top of us, all the boys madly photographing, big ooohs and aaahs – I heard the caravaners laughing and joking “we're all going to die”!! It wouldn't have been difficult to be scared, perched up on the cliff with the wind gusting around. At one point I went to check on Michael and found him sitting at the top of the steps of his roof topper holding on the the fly. Wasn't long before the lightening started and then we were really impressed. Chauffeur tucked himself up in the car watching the show and listening to the All Blacks narrowly beat the French. I was content to tuck up under the doona with my new book.
Monday 24^th October
Wind, it hadn't stopped. If it did, it was only momentarily, then I would hear Michael's fly flapping and 2 seconds later it would buffet us around. Although our Djan seems to hold up really well, it is still noisy and I don't think any of us got much sleep. By the time we got up, someone had to, the pee pot was full, Michael had already decamped and was sitting in the cab of his Triton. I had a rather unleisurely coffee, whilst packing up and we managed to get on the move before any major rain hit us again. We pulled in at most of the photographic stops, but unfortunately the low light conditions weren't the best. Just before the quarantine border I chopped up the last of the salad for lunch – wasn't hungry enough to eat just yet, so put it in a snap lock with the intention to eat it at the border if I wasn't allowed to bring it through. I was lucky the 'inspector' said it was fine – Michael had his unpeeled – unprepped salad taken away! Stopped at the Mundrabilla Roady for a Coldy, but we were too cold, so pressed on. By the time we got to Madura we had warmed up enough. The manager was obviously a local and had quite a bit of info about the tracks and caves, so Cocklebiddy cave is on the agenda for tomorrow after Eyre Bird Sanctuary. Found a little clearing off the track down to the Bird Sanctuary for the night. Chauffeur decanting some fuel from the auxillary. The prices over the Nullabor are close to $2 a litre.
Tuesday 25^th October
After all the morning chores completed, we set off for the Ayre Bird Observatory. Twelve Kms from the Ob all says said to de-air, etc etc. Having done so we also obeyed the 'engage low, steep descent'. Wouldn't have been classed steep by our club, didn't even worry me, the bush was nice and the track very comfortable. Greeted 9 km at the end of the track by Derek and Sue, the volunteers. What an interesting place. For a $10 vehicle entry it was worth every cent. That included coffee/tea and cake (I even got fruit in lieu – that will always impress me). The observatory was the original telegraph station and Derek proceeded to give us such an informative tour of the place plus extra historical information we were delighted. The dunny (complete with There's a dugite in the dunny down in Eyre poem on the wall) was the cleanest I have ever had to use – couldn't find the dugite though. After a thorough tour of their museum, library and lots of local passing on of all the flora/fauna – what the volunteers do (they are also the local meteorological station as well) we had to press on. Took the track down to the beach, complete with ship wreck, but found the beach far too weedy to proceed to turned back and headed back to Cocklebiddy. What a great name that is. There was a cave we had to explore. Find it we did, explore it we didn't. Well not too far. It is one of those scare underwater/diving type of caves. It had been explored for over 6km (underwater!!!) how crazy is that. There had been a movie filmed there. Michael climbed down quite aways, but fortunately it was one of those rare occasions when chauffeur obeyed me and 'stayed put'. It had been quite a day. After lots of relatively boring road it was rather nice. Spent the evening camped not far off the road – along the longest straightest stretch of road down under. We were timing how long it took from when you could first see the glow of headlights down the road until when the truck passed you. It was minutes – if they were travelling at 100km/hr that would have been about 23 km. Ho hum, the things you do camping in the outback. Forecast pretty dismal. A very cold windy night and some heavy rain.

Sunday 16th October - Monday 17th October

Sunday 16^th October
Woke up to a clear brisk morning, looks promising – lots of blue. It is amazing how much attention you pay to the weather when you are camping. We had some promising sand dunes to traverse today. Chauffeur led the way and soon we were on the other side of the headland. Oh my, what a wow. Pounding waves, spraying up the cliffs – 180 deg views, beautiful colours. Lots of photos etc. etc. We found the track into the dunes, and the men became boys. It really was lovely, couldn't wait to tell Benny, and hopefully he will make it here soon. Dunes much better than Yeagerup and even Michael was impressed even after his trip over Big Red and The Simpson. Perfect picnic spot came up for lunch so we sat digesting our sustenance – feasting our eyes at the same time. Moved on and around the corner found an even better vista. Eventually we came to the end and we headed back to Port Lincoln to pick up a few fresh veges and fuel. Now we were headed to the Western End of the peninsula – Coffin Bay NP, 50 Km west of P Lincoln. We drove out deciding we were very impressed with this corner of Australia and will need to do a re-visit (wonder if a house swap is possible?) Then Coffin Bay blew us away – chocolate box seaside village. Paid our dues at the NP entrance, aired down and we were away. The info office lady had told us a couple of parts of the track were only passable at low tide but there was a campsite before then. Although only 28km in it took us quite a while and even though we possibly could have caught the tide right it was time for a sundowner so we set up camp at Black Springs. The light was right, the wind right, the temperature right – and the beer was cold – perfect! Cheers! Around the fire (first one in ages) I decided I would try to cook up a lamb shanks camp oven dinner tomorrow! You should have seen Michael's eyes light up.
Monday 17^th October
The wind is up – coming from the north ish, could possibly mean the south side of the peninsula could be pleasant (apparently a good salmon hole). Meandered further down the peninsula, a mixture or rocky limestone (uncomfortable for the passenger) a few boggy bits or soft sand. At one point the track was dug out between some dunes making the sides quite steep and only just wide enough to drive through. I became aware of feathers outside chauffeur's window – it would seem, in it's dash to get in front of us it slid down the side of this cut out and into the side of Dmax. Fortunately, no one was the worse for wear, although I don't know who got the biggest surprise. Why is it that these silly birds run towards you and then like to stay in front of you – I can just him them calling “come on, this way, this way!” Further on we rounded a corner and in the middle of this boggy puddle was a very short emu. All we could see above the bog was the top half of the emu's legs. Chauffeur was just contemplating just how deep this bog could be when the emu stood up and ran off (yes down the track in front of us :) Heh, it was just having a visit to the local 'spa'. How much do we pay for a 'rejuvinating' mineral rich mud bath? Silly me I could just hold up the traffic and have a little lay down in one of these pools. All the scenery lovely and after chauffeur shooed off a million birds sunning themselves on a rock cast in his lure. Seems the rock was better off as a sun bed than a fishing ledge so we moved on again. This drive out here had inncluded a km long beach run, only possible at low tide. It was beautiful – the water calm, with the palesest shades of aqua through to deep blue, white dunes – I was in heaven (oh yes, the sand was fairly firm as well – chauffeur giving me a lesson – if you free coast along for a ways after you take foot off pedal you're on terra firma). Finding a nice camp spot we settled 'in' for the afternoon. It was a record setting day – we had only travelled 29km!!!! Chauffeur up to his usual top standard, had collected firewood and set the foundations for our camp oven fire. Whilst he went off to 'lose some lures' I was left in charge of maintaining this fire and keeping the camp oven (bedouurie) simmering with our lamb shank rogan josh. Michael reckoned it was good enough to reproduce at the annual Ninghan cook off! That was a complement as some of the food produced over that long weekend is excellent. Forecast for tomorrow is fantastic!

Thursday 6th October to Saturday 15th October

Thursday 6^th October
We had bush camped at the Merna Mora Station where they have a self-drive 4x4 ($45) but it had rained during the night at the track was closed so we decided to head north to check our Lake Eyre. Pulled in (for morno's) at the old townsite of Beltana. Same old story, had been a bustling town (with railway station) but the station had been moved to Leigh Creek because of the coal mine (typical) so now it was all but a ghost town. Some very interesting old buildings, one of them being a gallery. The resident artist is one of the 3 people still living in the town. She was quite a character and talented with the paintbrush. The town was soon to nearly double in size as her grandaughter and husband were moving back – he was going to run some sort of computer business from there. Next 'up the road' was Leigh Creek, restocked the fridge and the fuel tank. Quite an interesting set up here, felt like a Lego Town. The Mine company had moved the town 8 km down the road as it was in the way of the mine!!! So they had set up this fabricated little townsite – neat and tidy and sticking out like a sore thumb in amongst the historical buildings of the other little townships. Next town, Maree – where the New Ghan goes through – and a quick refreshment at the old pub (in the Aussie Bush Pubs book). The grumpy old bugger behind the bar eventually decided he would serve us! So we drank it down and pushed on for the last leg up to Lake Eyre campsite which is on a station 44km south of the lake and called Muloorina. A lovely little spot with a small natural hot spring, a well reeded watering hole and lots of birds. I was too tired to check out this hot spring – can't believe I didn't have the energy to even look at it, but chauffeur suggested maybe we could check it out tomorrow after visiting Lake Eyre.
Friday 7^th October
Up early to check out this amazing Lake. Quite a rough trip, lots of corrugations. Soon we were driving past the northern tip of Lake Eyre South. Wasn't sure if the water we could see was a mirage – chauffeur assured me it was the real stuff. Finally we were there. You have to park a way from the lake and there is a short walk up over a dune. Up we went, chatting to some interesting people on the way up who were heading over to Kalgoorlie to visit family. Guess what, no water. Well none that you could see. A bit disappointing, but I still found it thrilling to think I was there (have wanted to go for ages). We walked out on the salt flats (a bit Lake Bollardish, where were the statues) until it got too boggy, obviously hadn't been very long since there had been water. I could have kicked myself for not bringing a plastic bag to collect some salt. I had to make do with what I could carry in a tissue! Back at the carpark got chatting to another group of travellers who had an assortment of vehicles and campers – it is always interesting to see other people's set up, there are always ideas to be gleaned. Heading back southbound again, chauffeur wasn't interested in another night in the campground, so I had to console myself that I had missed out on a dip in the hot spring. We stopped in Marree again this time checking out the Lake Eyre Yacht Club!! WOW, what an interesting place – they really to sail on the lake. Some amazing photos, a great web page which I will check out again in the future. Learned that one part of the lake recently had 6 metres of water. Stayed at the Leigh Creek caravan park, it was very pleasant and got my tick of approval. Caught up with the washing – woo hoo, clean undies!
Saturday 9^th October
Another early start as chauffeur had a bee in his bonnet – this self-drive 4x4 back at Merna Mora was beckoning and apparently we needed to be there for 10:00. We made it and yes it was open. With key in hand, and page of directions and information we set off. It was a nice easy start (for me – nothing too scary) and with clear skies looked to be a promising day. We weren't disappointed. Well chauffeur did say the track wasn't challenging enough. Even I will admit it wasn't difficult (as in wash-outs etc) but there were some steep bits, managed to close my eyes and not get out of the vehicle. The scenery and views were fabulous. Although it seems wrong to pay to drive a 4x4 track, it was worth it, we had a lovely day. Couldn't help thinking if Linda and Ian had been on the trip as well, she might not have been too happy some of the inclines. I wanted to go through the Brachina Gorge again as the day we had driven through it had been raining. It was quite a long round trip and have to admit I was a little disappointed. Not sure if it is just more interesting driving south to north or if what we had seen earlier in the morning and desensitised us. Oh well, it was all good and we started heading towards Port Augusta. The wheel squeal was becoming unbearable and chauffeur had booked Dmax in again to having the bearings looked at again on Tuesday. Found a bush camp to the East of Hawker and managed to set up before it started raining.
Sunday 10^th October
Didn't get too wet during the night, but not worried as Jan seems to be well and truly water tight. Stopped for lunch at some old ruins, Kenyaka. I couldn't believe my eyes as we crested this rise to look down on some ruins of what looked like a small town. The stone work in these buildings would impress most brickies. Hard to believe it had been left to ruins. Built in the 1850's had at one time been populated by 70 people. Some Earl from Scotland started a station there only to be drowned a year later in a flash flood of the creek. Taken over by another family the station failed 15 years later due to drought! Watched a galah feeding its chicks - what a noise. Chatting to someone else in the carpark learnt of another bush camp at Hancocks Lookout just 40km south east of Port Augusta. Found our way there and eventually set up on a 'flattish' clearing overlooking the Spencer Gulf. Didn't look that awsome due to the bad weather. Finding a flat spot is always the most difficult part of setting up camp. Might take us 15 minutes getting the car level (usually with much disagreement going on – even with the 'tilt metre' app on the Iphone). I refuse to sleep with my feet higher than my head and one night I had rotated 180 deg in bed much to the annoyance of chauffeur who refused to rotate. I'm sure my feet weren't that stinky, but chauffeur didn't get a good night's sleep – his feet hadn't bothered me despite them being cold. Anyway we sat down to dinner overlooking the Spencer Gulf when it happened. The sun dropped through the clouds as it was setting and the water lit up. Chauffeur was up in a flash (ha ha, yes with camera in hand). It just kept getting better the lower the sun got. All dinner forgotten, we drank in the marvellous colours.
Monday 11^th October
Very cold morning, we drove down to Port Augusta. After giving Dmax a much needed de-mudding (we found the car washes have allotted bays for demudding) it must be a common problem in this area, we then had to check out one of those places – yes a CP. Picked one on the banks of the foreshore but not too far from town. Didn't spot the railway line on the opposite side of the water. After catching up with the washing again, treated ourselves to dinner out and returned to the caravan park kitchen for a nightcap and game of cribbage. This place is like a prison, the perimeter fence is topped with barbed wire and the gate is locked at 9:30pm, you have to request a key if you are going to be later. There were notices everywhere to lock up everything. After having walke around the town in the afternoon we could understand why. It really is not a very nice town, despite having lots of history and lovely historical buildings, but there is just no atmosphere, and having piped music in the streets is a bit worrying. No restaurants, tempting bakeries etc. Anyway, about 9.00 pm I thought I heard a roll of thunder. After a minute I was doubting it and was looking around for the source of the noise – Trains! - coal trains – over 2km long. It takes a good half hour for all the carriages to get rolling. All I can say is there was more than one train – should have chosen the CP closer to the highway, I just can't win.
Tuesday 11^th October
Chauffeur dropped Dmax off at Isuzu to have it's feet looked at and came back with a courtesy car – a commodore looking thing. Was entertained whilst chauffeur tried his best to imitate a 'local' driving into town. Topped up again at Woolies and had time to wash all the veges/fruit and pack them in the fridge properly. Dmax was de-squealed and we set about remounting Djan on to the tray. We are getting the hang of this -albeit slowly. Michael finally caught up with us and we had a great evening catching up on each others travels.
Wednesday 12^th October
Getting ready to set off I went to the kitchen to fill the flask whilst chauffeur topped Djan up with water. He came into the kitchen 15 minutes later with a worried look on his face – the news was he thought we had a 'stowaway', a hitchhiker no less. To my puzzled expression he explained that when he opened the water filling cap in Djan he saw something green. Thinking it might be some nasty algae stuff he touched it with his finger and it moved. Having realised he had actually seen a couple of eyes peeking at him over the lip the the filler came to the conclusion it must be a frog. Where had it come from – how did it manage to get there and had he damaged it by poking it?? Oh well, nothing we can do about it now so Eyre Peninsula here we come. This is the seafood capital of Australia, so after a bit of a sticky beak around Whyalla we lunched at Barnacle Bills. It was so so, but filled a big hole. But left us very thirsty. Further down the coast at Cowell we checked out some local oysters, served with a crisp white wine. Now that hit the spot and Michael not being satisfied had to go back for seconds. Spent the afternoon leisurely checking out every track down to the beaches, and did lots of ooing and aaahing – blue skies, rolling hills it was delightful. Camped at Cape Hardy and found some respite from the wind and had a thoroughly good time. Opened up the filler cap again and sure enough there is our little Kermie! Chauffeur chats to him everytime he walks past. How do you tempt a frog to come out of your water tank? What if it dies in there? Are we drinking froggie wee, or worse poop! Does it get car sick with all the swilling around it must get? There are a lot of flies around so I suggested putting a piece of meat near to the filler cap to tempt the flies which in turn might tempt our Kermie out – surely it must be hungry by now – can't help singing the song “I know an old lady, who swallowed a fly (to catch a …. etc.)
Thursday 13^th October
A bit of gusty rain during the night had Michael up putting down his awning. Quite different travelling now, very slow and leisurely. More delightful coastal views. The days are blurring, might have to fill this in later (after checking the details with him who knows it all – as far as maps and roads are concerned :) Think I might know where we picked up our hitchhiker. Whilst filling up from The Church on a Corner in Tibooburra I attached the water hose before letting the tap run a bit – now if I was a frog I would live up the spout of a water tap. Kermie still looking out the tank at us.
Friday 14^th October
Arrived in Port Lincoln and checked out the details of the National Park in the info centre. Bought another sticker for my collection (am beginning to run out of space on the toolbox door). Sorted out where we wanted to go – a bit complicated as keys and deposits are involved) but also there are storm warnings on the radio. Don't really want to go to the 'expensive' part of the park to be disappointed by lack of views due to the rain. Also it is the most exposed part of the coast, so warnings of hailstones were slightly daunting. Anyway found a sheltered spot in the NP peninsula, got prepared for an onslaught and slept peacefully through a very calm night – well I guess someone in SA got the storm, but we certainly didn't – no complaints here :) Kermie still decided the security of our water tank is its best option!
Saturday 15^th October
Continued to explore the NP. Walked some tracks first explored by Matthew Flinders and found another nice sheltered campsite close to the lighthouse. Weather looking a little more ominnous now, but chauffeur managed a couple of hours down the beach trying to tempt some piscatorial delight on to his lure. No luck, but the sunshine must have done him good. The water here is so clear and turquiose. I found myself a comfortable spot and settled down on the white sand with my book – it is such a hard life. Michael is back up at the lighthouse where the coverage is better so he can catch up on some 'work' – ugh wash my mouth out! An emu just ambled past me – got quite a shock – where is the camera? Maybe he can tempt our Kermie to come out.

Thursday 29 Sept - Wednesday 5th October

Thursday 29^th September
The wind hadn't stopped when we opened up last night so we 'snacked' on salad and cheese indoors, as we had also overly snacked on peanuts whilst waiting for a break in the weather before we 'opened up' Djan. The wind was strong and after we retired I couldn't help imagining what the nearby coolibah tree was doing – swaying too close in our direction, too late now, no way was chauffeur going to get up, put Djan down and move Max, better just get on and try to sleep. So morning arrived with no gum tree dropping a branch on us. Better still, blue skies, drove up the road and parked outside the Innamincka pub to secretly log on to their wifi and see if we had heard from Michael, check our email and download the latest weather. Still nothing opened up across the Simpson desert and it was no place to hang around (a bit disappointing really, even though it had been fun sheltering under the verandah of the pub yesterday during the storm) so we decided to go south to Tibooburra. It meant driving out to the Dig Tree again and then hanging a right towards NSW. By this stage I couldn't remember which State I was in. No, not 'State of Excitement', etc. The road started off ok, and then a few puddles started appearing. Hardly surprising considering the 'sky show' we had on Wednesday arvo. We could see recent tracks so knew someone was ahead of us. It was only an hour or so before we caught up with the culprits of the tracks. They were stopped just before some 'wet' stuff. Chauffeur hopped out and we introduced ourselves and before long we were in friendly convoy sharing thoughts over the radio. Ian and Linda (and son Jack) were from Sydney and obviously Linda and I had genes in common – slightly apprehensive about the 4x4 adventurous games some boys think are great fun. The poggy buddles, got bigger, and sloppier, slightly stickier and eventually our Max got so much gunck stuck on his tyres they didn't grip as much as they should and started spinning. By this stage Ian and chauffeur had built up enough comaradarie (my spell check is coming up but can't be bothered to try to sort it) going on within no time our new blue rope thing was out, along with a yellow strap thingy (Richard I hope you never read this – I know the boys were doing the right thing, but I can't put the right names to it). I knew I had shoes on my feet, but they were so encrusted with mud I couldn't see them. I was aware that the mud smelt quite different to NT mud – how observant I am!! Linda, who told me she was a nurse, jokingly told me she would have had pains in her chest if they had been alone. Dare I admit, that frequently happens to me even when we are on a club outing. Decided we would stop for lunch when we found a shady tree. An hour later, no shady tree, so it was lunch in the open. Ha, ha the wind was so brisk the sun was good. Yet again, our Djan instant kitchen impressed our fellow travellers. They had been camping with a rooftop tent (Linda and son) and Dad in the swag. Linda told me the wind last night was lifting her feet up in the rooftop and also had ripped the fly!!Hmm, no wonder I had been concerned about the tree near us. The rest of the afternoon flew by. Again the colours (with blue sky) were absolutely awesome. Some very pinky red sands and lots of pale olive grasses. We parted ways, exchanging contact details, as we stopped to camp just short of Tibooburra – Linda was hoping for a night under a proper roof after last nights stormy conditions. Camping at Olive Downs was quiet and pleasant. Another family pulled up a bit later, a few pleasant chats etc.
Friday 30^th September
Was aware early morning that there wasn't a dawn chorus (first time ever on this trip) but I could hear the chap in the camper trailer gently snoring. At one point chauffeur nudged me, huh couldn't he tell it was not me snoring but our neighbour? A while later (quite a while, it was daylight at this stage) I again heard our neighbour 'gently' snoring. I also became aware that I could hear the neighbouring 'camp' up and about and chauffeur was asking me how I could sleep whilst I was making so much noise! The cheek of it, it couldn't possibly have been me making that noise – I was awake!!! Have chuckled about this on and off all day. Chauffeur somehow – after putting up with all my sleeping acoustics proceeded to deload Dmax of at least 50Kg of excess weight – the mud he had collected yesterday. How someone can get a vehicle, Dmax and Djan, so clean with one cloth and only a couple of buckets of water absolutely amazes me. I was even more amazed when chauffeur moved Dmax and proceeded to 'sweep' the area clear of all the unloaded mud. We made it into Tibooburra without having to transfer fuel from the auxillary. We had done 925 km and fuelled up with 111 litres. The red light had only been on for 25 km! Have to take note of all these details – they will all be uploaded into chauffeur spread sheet later. The lady in the info centre was interested in our 'setup' and we soon found out she had met “Margy” the first Travelander owner we met on our travels back up in Cape York. Heading West again toward Cameron's Corner. This Corner shop sits on the border of Queensland, NSW and SA. Of course we had to have a beer, chin wag and buy the sticker, I am getting quite a collection now. This pub is in THE BOOK – Aussie Bush Pubs. Very Iconic and amongst other things we noticed the ceiling was covered in $5 and $10 notes. If you want to camp the night there it is $5 a vehicle. You have to get the note stuck into the ceiling without standing on a stool. The secret we discovered is you put a thumbtack through the note, followed by a coin, then twist the note around the coin and throw it up at the ceiling. The note sticks and the coin falls out. At the end of the year, the Corner Store owner takes all the money down and donates it to the Royal Flying Doctors – as he says, it is all they have out here if anything goes wrong – what good is health insurance if there are no doctors or hospitals? Quite an interesting fella – he himself had been flown out 2 weeks ago after a heart attack – just got back 'home' yesterday. In 2009they had collected $6000 but due to all the floods 2010 had only made $2000! We hit the road again. Had been told about the 'red flags' on the dunes marking poor conditions. Sure enough we found them, some of the dunes had some boggy soft patches on the other side – great to have the markers. Went as far as the Yellow Bus. It was a Camp 6 marked site – you got it – there was a double decker yellow bus. Love to know the history – looks like someone lived here for a while. Anyway, the more interesting thing is the grass fires around. The wind is awful so we cooked inside and can see several small grass fires, one of them quite close and we are down wind. However, the fires here don't seem to be as aggressive as we know them in WA. Another couple of vehicles have pulled up to camp for the night as well. Sitting here on the bed, being rocked around by the wind (we cooked inside because of the wind) but there is also a spattering of rain – could be an interesting night. The other vehicles are tenting it – quite a challeng getting them set up, has taken them ages. Oh I love my Djan.
Saturday 1^st October – Yellow Bus to Arkaroola
A few more people 'tourists' pulled in in the morning for photos and a chat and we eventually tucked Djan away and got back on the road again. Quite a nice track. Lots of burnt out areas, some still smoking. Got back to the Strzelecki Track and headed south, then diverting off passed Mt Hopeless. We were hoping to get to Arkaroola – home of the 'internationally-renowned Ridgetop Tour. It was lovely approaching the Gammon Ranges. They just stick up out of the plains. We arrived mid afternoon and 'checked in'. In our naieveity and enthusiasm we hadn't read between the lines. The Ridgetop Tour, was a tour only, not a tag along. Chauffeur was so disappointed. This was a big tourist magnet – I guess for city folks that need the 'outback' shown to them – without their creature comforts. There was 300 ha of bush camping so after paying our $18 for the night we went to find 'our bit of bush'. Unfortunately this 300 ha of bush is through a gorge alongside a creek bed. The toilets are at the start and then everyone drives further along the gorge to camp. This meant that a lot of people spread out in a long line. Therefore people driving back up to the toilets continually until late in the night. Also with a restaurant/bar up at reception I guess a lot of campers had partaken of these facilities – again too far to walk. First thing in the morning their helicopter tours took off. It was busier than Fremantle on a Saturday Night. Oh, you live and learn. However, we were able to drive their other numerous tracks, and whilst not ridgetop, they were lovely. Going back to the maps we found a place that looked a little quieter for this night's camp and not too far away. The driving through these 'Ranges' is quite different to anything else we have seen and thoroughly enjoyed it. Eventually finding our own 'spot' in a scenic clearing quite high up on the hills, but also sheltered. There were even some fireplaces, so for the first time in too long we had a fire to cook our dinner on.
Sunday 2^nd October Arkaroola – somewhere near Weetotla Gorge
We had a beautiful 'quiet' night – no traffic! Figured we had to make use of the fire again and had ourselves eggs and bacon. Setting off with full comfortable tummies little did we know what a lovely treat was in store for us. The track we had taken was a one-way, and the return journey was quite memorable. A few places were 4x4 (I reckon chauffeur would argue this point with me) but I'm writing this so it is my call :) Gill's lookout was awesome, with 360 deg views and some beautiful 'red' ridges. The track down again although steep (which is enough to set my muscles off) it was relatively smooth. I thoroughly enjoyed this drive. Stopping at another camping spot for morno's we got chatting to a couple from Canberra who were on a 5-day walk. Forget that, I can't think of many things worse. Fancy having to lug all your stuff around for 5 days – wouldn't be able to carry all the wine I would need – let along my mattress. All they had was a backpack each. If you can't have good food and alcohol on a camp – well what is the point!! Lunchtime saw us at Chambers Gorge. Just pulling up who should we park next to but none other than our travelling companions from the other day – Ian, Linda and son Jack. Well you would have thought we were lifetime friends. It was lovely – greeting with giant bear hugs was so welcoming. After chewing the fat we decided we would camp where they had been for the last couple of nights at Wirrealpa Station. They were staying in their shearers huts (as their roof top was splitting at the seams) but we would camp along side. What a treat, the family has been on this homestead for 130 years, and there were memorabilia galore. The old kitchen,, stone walled, old arga cooker, giant solid wooden tables and trestle benches. We burnt the midnight oil, sharing stories, chauffeur's inner kid coming out again when he spotted Jack's rugby ball. We haven't had such lovely company for a while.
Monday 3^rd October – Weetotla Gorge to Wirrealpa (And Tuesday, somewhere)
We have had such a lovely time, I seem to have lost a day. Sitting here on Wednesday 5^th Sept knowing what we did yesterday, which makes Tuesday, can't remember what happened on Monday. Oh well. I do know that despite the rain yesterday what we saw will rate as one of the high lights of the trip. In convoy again with Linda and Ian we drove to Wilpena Pound. This is the 'centre' of the Flinder's Ranges. A natural 'pound' in the mountains and quite delightful, unfortunately it is also a tourist magnet, but we managed set off to check out the Old Wilpena Station – the best preserved historical pastoral site in Australia. Guess what, we were the only ones there and it was incredible. The Red Gums, old buildings, information was just great. Hundreds of photos later and lunch we drove on through Brachina gorge. It was soo good, unfortunately with the rain the light wasn't the best, so we might have to go back on a brighter day. A beer later in the Parachilna Prairie Hotel, with the obligatory sticker. Later back at Wirrealpa Homestead in the Shearers Kitchen over a few more wines with Linda's infections laugh, Jack the non-stop chatterer (and encyclopiac memory for sports) and Ians singing made for another fine evening. Unfortunately, we had to eventually drag ourselves off to bed.
Wednesday 5^th October
Said our sad farewells to our newly found friends – some people still have to work! We waited a while to let Djan dry off a bit after the night's rain. Whilst sitting in the car typing up some blog Max (the dog) asked if it was safe to unplug his ears – don't worry Jack I gave him a good cuff, the cheeky little mongrel! Decamped and set off. Rain on the horizon and whilst at the info centre in Blinman were told the 4x4 drives (most of them anyway) were closed. But got a good mud map of some other places to visit. Went up to the Nuccaleena Mine ruins. Very interesting. Built in the 1860's it was incredible. The stone masons must have been quite industrious to erect so many houses, shops, smelter etc in such a short time in such an isolated spot. The chimney is huge and the stone work very impressive. Great place for a picnic. Back through Blinman. They have an annual camp oven cook off with up to 50 teams competing. Unfortunately we had missed it by a couple of days. Linda and Ian hadn't though and told us the tasting was great, they had a good feed. In the pub (where else to go on a rainy day) there were lots of photos of times past – loved the one of a couple of 'well dressed' ladies coming into town on a Sunday sat on the back of a camel back in 1907. Have decided to take a self-drive tour tomorrow, when hopefully the weather will be better.