30th October to 5th November - End of the Trip

Sunday 30^th October
Off we set to retrace our tracks back towards Esperance. Of course muggins here very nervous about chauffeur wanting to short cut across the dry lake which could possibly be not so dry. No worries, navigated our way past the warren of 'dodgy' tracks and back on to the main track which is the extension of Fisheries Road. It seemed to take a lot longer this time. There are plenty of wild flowers about which is rather nice, saw another 'Monty' (python). Made it to Condingup Pub for lunch (oh dear, this is becoming rather a vice – these pub lunches), but this time after enduring the rough track from Israelite Bay I needed a 'treat'. We shared a local snapper fish burger, not so great, but the cider washed it down well. Back into Esperance. Chauffeur dropped me off at a laundrette whilst he did the more important stuff (get Max washed down:) There were plenty more tracks to explore between Esperance and Bremer Bay. Have been a bit slack keeping up with this blog and the next few camps have sort of blended into one. Think we stayed at Quagi beach. These camps along this stretch of coast are either Shire or DEC run. They are all rather lovely, however we had persistent south easterly winds and found it was a bit of a chore trying to find a suitable overnight spot with sufficient wind shelter.
Monday 31^st October
Continuing the exploration. I think we must have checked out all the tracks and I think what might be the perfect beach and camp, given different wind conditions it might not be so good. Still very little blue sky and for me that always makes things seem a bit flat. Checking out Margaret Cove were quite surprised to find more fishing shacks. Who owns these places, or has right or use etc. etc. The little inlet looks great for a tinny, but the mosquitoes were hungry so we didn't even stay for morno's. Munglinup Inlet is also good. Some interesting history – a fascinating ruin. These places so intrigue me. Oh to have been a fly on the wall a hundred years ago. How tough must life have been. There was a HUGE Morton Bay fig tree, was just starting to scramble up the massive 'legs and feet' of this monster but then became aware of a lot of bees. Hmm, not game enough to venture further. Had a pose on the front steps of the old homestead with chauffeur setting up the delayed exposure shot. Always amusing because inevitably the camera falls over etc. The little beach we stopped at already had a few campers – one with dogs who scampered over to check us out. No sooner had we sat down on the rocks when one dropped a stick at chauffeur feet – how perceptive – it obviously knew I can't throw anything for toffee. Fortunately, chauffeur didn't have to lose face by tiring before the dog – this creature had as much energy as Lily but the rocks were very rough and the way it was scrambling after the stick it was going to give itself sore paws. We camped at Munglinup. A very nice shire run camp and we had it to ourselves.
Tuesday 1^st November
Still no respite from the weather. Can't remember what blue skies are!!! West along Springdale Road past Lake Shaster National Park. Very nice. Left down Southern Ocean Rd to Starvation Boat Harbour. Another nice beach/natural harbour, but not lunch time so drove on, hugging the coast on a track. Quite a few tracks down to the beach, all worth checking out again – when the weather is better. Camped at 13 mile beach camp not too far east of Hopetoun.
Wednesday 2^nd November
Hopetoun – delightful little retirement fishing village. Complete with tennis courts, bowls, golf etc. Quick restock of the fresh stuff and off again planning to continue west into Fitzgerald River National Park. Very disappointed to find the road closed due to road upgrade, Hmmmm, not impressed. Seemed the only option to head north to Ravensthorpe, then turn west for a bit then come into Fitzgerald NP that way. Drove past an op shop and as it had been a while since I had had a 'fix' insisted chauffeur oblige me and stop. Had a delightful chat with the lady running the place (who had been a local for ever) and after 'doing my bit for charity – another camping shirt for chauf – we moved on. After turning south along Quiss Rd found most of these roads into Fitzgerald NP also closed. Checked in at the Rangers place to learn the reason is mostly Die Back! Things don't look good for this Park. Plan B was to go to Bremer Bay. We arrived late afternoon, found good access to the beach, aired down, and set off to find a suitable spot to camp. Chose a track that went behind the dunes (in fact followed another vehicle and hoped they knew where they were going). Huh, course not, but anyway they led us to the inlet/lake. We decided to stay (they didn't). There were some very strange noises that night. Lots of night creatures, however, Djan felt very secure to me. Did learn from someone the next day that there are lots of snakes in the area, and before anyone goes skiing in the lake they whizz around in the boat a couple of times to scare them off. Glad I didn't know that before I went paddling.
Thursday 3^rd November
Chauf eager to explore all the tracks around the dunes behind the beach. I was a bit grim faced, but tried to be brave. Lots of tracks here and eventually took one that led us back down to the beach. Oh Oh, beach driving!! It was a long beach – admittedly beautiful, and even I spotted some good fishing channels. Got at least ¾ of the way to the headland, before it was deemed not quite so easy so turned into the dunes again to try to navigate a way to the headland and possible to the far side of the headland. We went up and down, round and round (some very interesting petrified trees – they must know how I feel) but we couldn't find a track through to the peppermint bush. Eventually backtracked (a long way) to the main track and got into the peppermint bush where we we did find a way down from the dunes we had been in. Although chauf attempted to get Max up and over the top section was just too soft, but it would be possible to descend. All duly noted for future trips (oh groan, I might have to throw a sickie). Pushed through to House Beach – more fishing shacks, this time with million dollar views. Ended up coming out at the far end of Peppermint Beach. Just perfect, one of those places post cards are made of, so after getting the 'keeni' on – yep there was a bit of blue sky and it was sheltered from the wind, we enjoyed a pleasant lunch. Chauf's hat went for a swim but I managed to race out and rescue it. Started walking back whilst chauf rebooted a crashed computer and after he picked me up we passed a Snick (variety of snake that is not a Monty) – slithering along right in the middle of the beach! Good grief, I had just been running around (full Monty style) thinking I was safe. Was rather unsettled. After a very scratchy overgrown track found ourselves back at the far end of the beach that we had started out on in the morning. Got to within about 20 metres of the stretch that chauf had earlier deemed too risky to take when he put his foot down and before I could hop out we were in the thick of it. Got half way, before the incline of the beach and the 'softness' got a hold of us. I fell out of the cab, thinking I was going to have heart failure and looked up to see the blacked clouds approaching from behind. Those Maxtrax came down so quickly and I was busy scooping out any wheel that chauf wasn't attacking. A further air down and Max grabbed a hold of the trax and shot forward a few metres. The incline of the beach needed one more 'reset' of the trax and then we were back on previously navigated beach. Managed to tie everything back down and the black clouds had stayed put. Decided the caravan park might be the better option tonight as by this stage there were 'severe' weather warnings. We sat out the storm on the top of the hill over looking Bremer Bay from the safety of the 'local' enjoying a couple of coldies and treated ourselves to a pizza. By the time we opened up the camper the worst of the storm had passed.
Wednesday 4^th November
The reception of the CP hadn't been as lucky as us and I found them still trying to dry out and repair the roof and guttering that hadn't been able to cope with the previous night's downpour. We checked out Point Henry and its fabulous beaches before starting to turn north (and head home). Wasn't long before we were in the farming land of the south. The weather still ominous and only parts of the Stirling Ranges were visible. We got to Wagin mid afternoon where we surprised the socks off our old Kalamunda neighbours. They have been running the Wagin Motel and keeps Sharon and daughter Bec rushed off their feet. After a quick cup of tea and instructions where we could park our camper for the night we left them to finish 'the rooms' but not before I was delighted to discover that I am not the only person who is allergic to beach driving and some of the more challenging 4x4 tracks. Oh the joy, I am not alone. Geoff found us later that evening – fully attired in our passion killers (camping sleepware). But we were so busy catching up over a beer I don't think he noticed. He left a while later having invited us to breakfast. We had actually parked at the show grounds, underneath the roof of the goat shed .
Thursday 5^th November
A bit disappointed it hadn't rained during the night, as we were parked up under the shed roof, but never mind. We were treated to a lovely cooked breakfast at the Wagin Motel, thanks Sharon. If anyone is looking for a room to break the journey on the trip south this place comes highly recommended. These lovely people had work to do so after being shown around Geoff's caravan we hit the road for the last leg of this trip to head home. Not before checking out one of our favourite breweries Brew 42. Two treats in one day – well, why not it was our 30^th Wedding Anniversary.



And that folks, is the end of the trip. We hope you have enjoyed following us on this adventure.
We hope we didn't scare any of you off from 'Getting out there' and seeing this fabulous country we have the great fortune to live in
Until Big Trip No2, where we hope to fill in some of the many gaps we left, keep safe and healthy.

26th October to 29th October

Wednesday 26h October
A cold morning, but dry and overcast. Continued on the longest 'straight' road until coming to Balladonia RH. Known for the Skylab re-entry bits. Small museum there, quite interesting. They had no info on the Balladonia Track (south to Israelite Bay) which could have been a short cut for us and as there had been a lot of rain and storms forecast we played it safe and headed into Norseman. The Fraser Ranges just to the East of Norseman were beautiful and I was reminded of how unique the WA bush/forests are. Just love those trees. Eventually found The Pub in Norseman, It was rather depressing and had to go over the road to get a take away – at least we were allowed to bring it back to eat with a beer. Forecasts for storms and hail between Canarvon and Lancelin inland to Souhern Cross so we decided to head souh anyway. Michael had to go home so we said our goodbyes and went our separate ways. Glen had told me of another of his little 'gems'. He is a mine of information when it comes to bush camping so we decided to check out this latest recommendation. About an hour south west of Norseman, but at least 50km of bumpy track. When we eventually spotted Peak Charles it was shrouded in a black rain cloud. Oh well, it will pass, and too far to go back at this stage. Was quite a statement of Syenite Rock (like granite but with less quartz). Managed to open up Djan in a break from the weather and grabbed a few snacks and drinks out of the fridge before taking shelter inside. Buckets of water. By the time it eased up again I had eaten too much cheese and biscuits to be bothered with cooking, besides I had found a packet of crisps inside and my bottle of ginger wine (what a combination) but still better than standing outside in the damp and cold to cook dinner. I think chauffeur would have appreciated a hot meal and about an hour later I wished I had made the effort. Oh well, we'd live. As we lay in bed with grumbling tummies we comforted ourselves with the thought of a cooked breakfast.
Thursday 27^th October
Bright blue skies, camped beside the magnificent outcrop of 651 metres of Peak Charles we were delighted, so were the flies – think they had been breeding like rabbits – worse than Tractor Beach in SA – even chauffeur resorted to putting on the bridal veil (fly net). Decided the Peak had to be climbed and as a few clouds had started drifting over quickly packed up and set off for he climb with rain jackets in tow. The views were worth putting up with wearing nets. Looking down into the campsite, Max and Djan looked very small surrounded by thousands of miles of bush and scrub – oh yes not forgetting the flies! Chauffeur had a dizzy spell, so we had to sit down and rest for a while – it will be a doctors check up for him when we get back. Stubborn as a donkey he insisted on continuing, which we did for a while, it was becoming more and more difficult to find the markers of the trail. We reached a point where I said no more, but the donkey continued without me taking with him the car keys. I decided it was too cold standing around near the top and started heading down. That is until I couldn't find the next marker so had to sit down and wait. Fortunately not for too long. Chauffeur had decided that the next part of the climb was too dangerous as the water running off the rock made things very slippery. We had to take shelter under a ledge at one point to let a heavy shower pass and several sections after that we had to squat down on our haunches and just let ourselves slide. Made sure chauffeur was infront of me so I could have a softer landing if things got out of control. By the time we reached the bottom we were ravenous and so were the flies. Bacon and eggs would have to wait. Trying to take a short cut back to the Coolgardie Esperance Highway we came to a sign “Track Impassable – sandy and boggy sections”. Bugger, that is the worse thing chauffeur needs to see, it is like a red rag to a bull. On we pushed – after I had declared I would not be helping if we got stuck. Of course we did get through, eventually. Plenty of boggy puddles to larger stretches of water crossings, but Max didn't hesitate once, he ploughed through without missing a beat. Phew! Just before the mainroad chauffeur aired up the tyres whilst I cooked us up a feast. Tummies feeling a lot happier we cruised down to Esperance. Haven't been here since the early 80's. The usual ports of call – info centre and groceries. Went out to Orleans Bay to check it out and stay the night. Fortunately for us with it being a long weekend there was space (only for Thursday though). Wasn't that impressed with the CP, although the coast is lovely.
Friday 28^th October
We had a mud map of all the DEC and Shire beaches and campsites so we set off to explore as many as possible. Made a mistake taking Merivale road instead of Fisheries thinking it was slightly shorter, well it is, but the condition of the road didn't make up for it. We went down that many tracks, and the beaches all just beautiful, it becomes a bit of a blurr. We ended up staying at Seal Cove. Very sheltered, nice level clearings, no flies, but a bit of a walk to the beach where chauffeur discovered the fish weren't hungry.
Saturday 29^th October
Checked out the tracks to either side of our camp. Definitely worth a revisit. Chatted to a lovely lady fishing who wasn't having any luck either. Whilst she and I were having a nattter Malcolm politely 'borrowed' her rod to see if he could tempt a salmon onto her lure. I was very impressed to learn this lady had been chased down by the ranger to be flown back to Perth to meet our “Lizzie”. She is the author and illustrator of a book that was presented to the Royals and got to speak to them in person, a painter of wildflowers. Chauffeur had no luck with the rod so handed it back and we headed East to Israelite Bay. I have often looked at this place on maps and was very curious about it. Now we're here I have to say I'm a bit disappointed. What a treck to get here. Horrible track, bit of getting muddled around the lake area and discovering a rabbit warren of tracks once we got to the coast. It must have been a good 2 hours to do 60kms. The beach is nothing to write home about, lots and lots of seaweed. There is a huge telegraph station ruin, which is interesting. Will stay the night as it is a bit late in the day to make the return comfortably in daylight – plus being a long weekend it might be hard to find a bush camp between here and Esperance. Guess what – the flies have followed us.