Trish Travels: May 2013

Saturday, 25 May 2013

Another week at Ningaloo

Day 57 - Another week at Ningaloo

Thursday, 23 May 2013

Friday 17th to Thursday 23rd May

Loving it so much, despite weather, we have decided to stay another week. So Friday we set off to Exmouth for a few supplies. Managed to get a couple of small shopping lists for fellow campers as well. Nice to be able to do something in return for everyone's hospitality.

Took the coast road up to Yardie Creek, which has been dry (well the crossing) for quite a while. A very corrugated track but not the worst we have done. Coming up to the crossing there was a bit of a traffic jam, and as we pulled up we saw our previous camper neighbours from 14 mile beach. Of course we had to catch up on all our news, as well as the sad news of the couple that had since drowned at Warra. You do see some silly things happen, but the Troopy towing an old Patrol, loaded with 4 back packers and more camping gear than you could shake a stick at, and with tyres still fully inflated, tried to cross the extremely soft creek bed, we decided that took the cake. Saw another Travelander in the car park. This one a single cab camper (about 60cm longer than ours) but on a dual cab with an extended tray! Would love to know what that weighed, but as I pointed out to my chauffeur they might not travel the off road way like someone I know!

A quick restock in Exmouth which seemed to take all day, couple of quick calls to our lads and we were heading back to camp, the bitumen way this time. Well at least until the turn off to the Station. There we were heading west on rough track with the setting sun on the horizon. Hmmm, must remember this is not fun. Arrived at the beach in the dark. Fun and games with grumpy getting the camper backed up to the gazebo. "Left hand down". "LEft HAnd DOwn", ... "LEFT HAND DOWNNNN" Michael came out to assist. For the first time EVER, grumpy admitted he was wrong - must have been the dark and got his left and rights muddled. Heh, heh. All soothed with a beer or two and some well planned out left overs for a quick heat up.

In the meantime have met more wonderful people. Have yet to be able to go for a walk without being delayed somewhat. The most memorable one when meeting Michelle and Tim. I think M noticed Tim trying to sort some solar panels, turned out we might have something to help and rushed back to our camp to get it. Before I know it we both have been plied with alcohol and stagger back to our camp after dark. Next day Tim collects M to have a fish in their boat and a short while later Michelle turns up with a bottle of bubbly discretely wrapped up in a tea towel. I did my utmost to resist for about 10 seconds, unbelievably I succumbed :). Was feeling no pain when the fisherman returned, and he had some catching up to do.

The days go on like this, such a hard life. On a More serious note, drama in the "Hansfree" camp one night. Annika had severe chest pains and they ended up making a nightmarish trip to Exmouth, nearly midnight by the time they got there, where she was taken to Perth via the RFDS. Five days later, with a diagnosis of heart cramps, medication and instructions not to overdo it she is 'home' and teaching me free form crochet. Hans in the meantime was well cared for by the Ningaloo neighbours.

I will really miss this when we leave this Friday especially Michael and Denise next door. Sunset drinks in their Cottesloe Pavilion will be hard to beat.

	Michael and Denise's waterfront property [Map]		Boat Harbour, DEC camp nr Yardie Creek [Map]
	A Travelander Cousin [Map]		Neighbours Kayak, Cottesloe Pavillion [Map]
	Don't get lost! [Map]

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South Lefroy, Ningaloo

Day 50 - South Lefroy, Ningaloo

Thursday, 16 May 2013

Tuesday 7th to Thursday 16th May. What a change! Tucked in at the base of a large dune at Site 1 we were very happy with our move. A beachfront 'property' again. Met the neighbours, Michael and Denise who had just arrived at No 2. Over 5's that sunset we learnt they had been coming for 30 years and this stay was for 3 months They had a Bush Tracker caravan, but also a huge trailer (as large as a small caravan) which they left at the Station and stored all the extras in. Over the next week we were amazed to see Michael transform their site into a palatial garden/courtyard complete with Cottesloe Pavalion. Out of the trailer had come 3 gazebos, enough wooden posts and shade cloth to build a rabbit warren of wind breaks, all of which was ground covering of shade cloth or carpets. But wait there was more - a large rubber dinghy, with motor and 2 kayaks. They had brought their 3 parrots, as you do. Ruby (Eclectic?) and Alex the Alexandrian or something like that and a Weiro. Talk and mimic, they entertain us all day. Proper show offs.

After 2 days we had no desire to leave and managed to extend our stay another week. We got settled in. Unfortunately the weather was to test my camping durability. Over the weekend we experienced a storm that would probably have scared me if I was under a proper roof.

Fortunately we were prepared and had taken the gazebo down. By 2am I was that rattled I had to get up. He that never gets rattled asked me where I was going. I said I didn't know but I couldn't lay there any more. I had tried to get a cuddle but it was like attaching myself to someone comatose, no response or reassurance!! Once up, ie climbing down 3 steps and standing on the bouncing floor I didn't know what to do, so I got dressed. What are you getting dressed for asked the speaking unmoved body up on the bed? Don't know, but it might help if the canvas blows away - visualising images of me on the beach in flapping nightdress :)

Had to distract myself so sat down with head torch and sudoku. Wasn't long before I felt sea sick. I could just hear over the noise of the flapping canvas Captain Harrison advising his passenger to please stow away the table and fasten the seatbelt - if only I had one! It was equal to the turbulence coming into Perth when there is a strong Easterly blowing. By 2:30 I noticed a puddle on the floor, no not me, (even though I have been known for 'marking' corners) but the horizontal rain had completely saturated the canvas and was running in through the seams. Also up top by the bed, so Captain Harrison had to get up and start mopping. Wasn't long before I had to empty out a large ice cream container or rain. By 4am things seemed to have quietened down, so lay down again, fortunately still dressed as that must have been the eye of the storm and by 4:30am it started over.

Daylight saw us in one piece. I was amazed, had seriously thought there was no way our canvas could stand up to such a battering for so long. The wind was coming at our broadest side, typical. So whilst the 'house' was ok, the foundations had been eroded and we saw the one of the legs to the floor was just hanging in the air. Repairs and reinforcements were required. Couldn't see our doormat, but further investigation showed it had become buried (probably the sad dug out from under the leg). Also most of the sand from a back tyre had gone.

The wind kept up in various degrees for most of the day and I felt one of us should stay inside to weigh the floor side of the camper down, so we took it in turns to face the elements and blow the cobwebs away. One camper trailer on the beach had faired ok, but the couple in the tent spent the night in the car after their tent was destroyed.

Michael and Denise found a candle so M could wax the seams in our canvas. Don't know if it will help, but it feels better to try something than do nothing at all. Forecast showed more wind for the night, groan, but somehow you just muddle through. Well there wasn't a choice. Certainly can't put the camper down in that gale so nothing else to do.

Met another couple further down the beach that had been here a few times before, from Victoria. Understand now why these regulars have windbreaks here :) Hans and Annika were delightfully hospitable and it was nice to shelter in their annexe that had firm ground. I was over the turbulence. Annika is a very talented crafts person and in no time she was showing me her free form crochet and Kumihimo braiding. In fact I left with some instructions and a bag of braid to create my own lanyard.

The second night, no rain, but winds and a king tide. We were ok, but the poor couple with broken tent were flooded out. Must have been quite scarey for them as the tide came up past the car. Another day with no sun, fingers crossed for the batteries, not opening fridge or freezer.

Third day, all is forgiven, but not quite forgotten, blue skies, no wind, perfect. The Fisherman is back on the beach. So easy to settle into this way of life(when the weather is good). A few more people camping on the beach now, yep that same beach that was under water not so long ago. Love seeing all the different style camping, tents, trailers, slide on's, caravans and annexes. Have learnt about the Pee Pipe. Gents version, just a 10cm length of PVC pipe sunk into the sand. Ladies version have a funnel stuck in the top. Flushed with a bit of water and disinfectant daily. Perfect for a long stay where there are no other facilities - I guess the soft sand is the other must.

Have also learnt that iPhones don't work very well here. One bar up the top of the dune first thing in the morning or early evening. The old phones have better coverage. It is quite a funny sight watching people standing up on the dunes holding their phones up trying to get signal. The 'residents' have it sussed, with old phone and tall squid job arials.

There are quite a few bores here as well. It means having jerry cans and a small pump, of which we have neither, however, everyone we have met have offered us help, if we need to top up. Fortunately, whilst we have flapping canvas, we have a 120 litre water tank - so long as we drink beer at night and not water we can easily go a couple of weeks. Also most washing, bodies, clothes and dishes, is done in sea water, finishing off with a small fresh water rinse. Just love it, don't relish the thought of having to live under a proper roof again.

	Yet another one [Map]		Storm clouds [Map]
	The morning after [Map]		Ningaloo, not so Blue [Map]
	The Range, behind us [Map]		Waxing the seams [Map]
	Free form Crochet, the Living Reef [Map]

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Warra to Ningaloo

Day 40 - Warra to Ningaloo

Monday, 6 May 2013

Friday 3 May to Monday 6 May

Said our goodbyes leaving 14 mile beach at Warra, with a quick stop at Coral Bay, to top up with everything, not that Coral Bay has a lot of anything, apart from tourists!! A place you go to only if you have to.

Took the coast road (track, and in the usual condition :) through Cardabia Station, checking out another camp spot which we briefly looked at before continuing on. Say no more. Eventually arrived at Ningaloo Station. Phil gave us the low down on everything and suggested Jane's Bay as the place for us. Off we went complete with chemical toilet on my lap (at least it was empty). Followed the mud map and set up. Behind the dunes and a short walk to the beach, which at this stage looked a little disappointing. From the top of the dune we could see another camper trailer parked up, however they drove off in the morning with hardly a wave of acknowledgement.

The fisherman 'rigged' up and went about his business - providing dinner. There was more weed than sea, and over the next 3 days he persevered for hours and apart from a few nibbles had no luck. Phil had said the north end of the bay was good for whiting so one morning off we set. A lovely walk and eventually did get to a bit of beach that was swimmable but no fish were hungry. On the way back came across a very small turtle on the sand. At first thought it was dead but when I touched it there was a very small breath and eye blink. Not very lively and not really knowing what to do M picked it up and put it in the water. Swam very lethargically with its bum up (maybe had swallowed a plastic bag) but nothing else we could do. It had been a long walk and we didn't attempt it again.

My feet feel strange. All this beach walking is toughening them up. The pads feel swollen and tingly. Sunday brought some company. Two couples strolled down the beach with a very small chiwowa (have no idea how spell that) on a lead. Of course M had to mention something about bringing him fresh live bait. Fortunately all had a great sense of humour, and we discovered the next day that, Locky, the dog, despite his diminutive size, had a great personality.

Come Monday we were slightly disappointed with our bit of non productive beach. So we went off to to ask about checking out the other beaches at Ningaloo. Each camping location has a locked gate so Phil gave us all the keys and we set off. All were quite different, and all were better than where we were at Jane's Bay. Phil confirmed there was a free site at South Lefroy so we were moving there tomorrow.

On the way back we stopped off where Locky's (the small dog with large personality) parents were camped in 2 large caravans. What was intended as a 10 minute chat extended to the rest of the afternoon. One of the women was a keen seamstress and showed me her creations. Said she wouldn't come camping without her machine and produced a small Elna. It was the same one I had been given for my 17th birthday!!! They had all been in Denham for a few weeks and had been very productive on the fishing side of things and when we said our goodbyes we were handed a couple of packets of vacuum packed fish!!! How lovely.

	Coral Bay Boat Harbour [Map]		Ningaloo Windmill [Map]
	Turtle Rescue [Map]		Jane's Bay [Map]
	Cloate's Lighthouse [Map]		Lighthouse [Map]
	North Lefroy [Map]

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Wednesday, 1 May 2013

14 Mile Beach, Warra

Day 36 - 14 Mile Beach, Warra

Thursday, 2 May 2013

Wednesday 24th April to Thursday 2nd May

Drove to the south boundary of Warra and climbed the headland. After clambering to the top with our breakfasts decided I wasn't game to fight off the flies as I tried to eat it, so just enjoyed the view and ate it in the car later. Checked out all the other beach tracks heading north. Some lovely places, but not deserted, as we prefer, and still flies. Got up to Sandy Point, but only 9 sites and all full, so continued up to 14 mile beach. Know it is the caravan area, so not really expecting too much.

The caretakers he, Lesley and Ross are delightful. Lesley had us hop in the Suzuki Jeep, me squished on M's lap, so she could show us the couple of sites she had. The north end of the beach has all the long termers , big vans lined up side by side, generators, wind annexes, squid jig aerials, boats. They were set up for the season. Down the south end they had some lovely little beach front sites separated by salt bush. One was available in a couple of days, so we set up just behind the dunes. It was actually quite pleasant and wondered if we should stay there as it was a bit more protected from the wind.

Enjoyed our walks everyday and watching the changing conditions of the ocean, tides, wind, light etc. we were very close to the camp hosts so enjoyed a fair bit of their company. They had been here continually for 16 months, and had no intention of moving on yet. I can see why they love it.

The option of a 'beach front' property won out and we moved over. A bit of a challenge as it was quite sloping. We were building up little hills to park on so we would get level, but we are doing a good job of 'slowing' down so what does it matter if it takes all day - the beer is still cold at the end of the day :)

Have got to know all our 'neighbours' and we now have the sundowner circle going on the beach - it started off just 4of us and now every night it grows. For us it is like home with our Waterside neighbours. Trevor and Vicki, the first couple we met, are very like minded. Trevor keen on the fishing and has been picking M up at dawn to drive out to a little rocky headland to fish. They have each caught a good size Spangly.

The only coverage here is a couple of Kms away, up the tallest hill. So I get a lift from Vicky for my communication 'fix'. We are coming to realise that if we want to live on the road, and stay put in places a bit longer, having the camper on the car is not always ideal - might have to 'tweak' our set up a little. Giving us lots to think and talk about.

Last night was farewell to Vicki and Trevor, they set off back home this morning. The circle might be a bit quieter, but you never, their beach front property could be filled by another bubbly couple, we will see. You never know. We met another Trish and Vernon, who are keen fishers and had a secret spot up the track. They called past this morning to pick up my fisherman, fingers crossed he will return with dinner.

	South Headland, Warra [Map]		Framed Sunset [Map]
	Spangled Emperor [Map]		Domestic Bliss [Map]

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BIG TRIP 3

Day 27

Tuesday, 23 April 2013

Thursday 18 - Tuesday 23

Delighted with our 'spot'. The crabs no longer seem quite so interested in us and don't try to sample our toes. So picturesque but!!!!! How things can change. WIND. All that phaffing around to position the camper for the best protection, as the wind usually comes off the ocean, right? Ha ha, by Friday it had swung round to the East, SE. It brought with it every fly within 100 km radius. Would have thought the wind would carried them off! Quite concerned that the new gazebo might be destroyed, but at least whilst it was securely tied down it might be safer than trying to fold it up in the Easterlies.

We knuckled down until our week was up. But somehow I seem to enjoy the challenge of the elements. Life is not all paradise, it really does make you appreciate it when it is perfect.

Into our little routines, whiling away the days, despite some not ideal conditions.

One morning we were 'surprised' down the beach. My determined fisherman had wandered down the beach a bit to try his luck there. I pottered down later with his 'morno's' when suddenly there was a couple appeared from the dunes behind us. Fortunately I did have my bathers on, or else they might have been scarred for life :). Other than that we had the week totally to ourselves.

Wednesday morning, time to decamp. Hoping the wind might have calmed down a tad, but no luck. However, we got the gazebo down with no dramas.

	Bone Fish -understatement! [Map]		Long Tom [Map]
	Another delightful campsite [Map]		Nachos [Map]
	South Boundary, Warra [Map]		Wildlife, Bustard [Map]