Somerset Beach to Noah's Beach lst Sept

Where have the last few days gone. Haven't blogged at all, not even felt like it, heh, that is caravan parks for you. After leaving Somerset Beach, our idylic little beach that we had all to ourselves, we set off next morning to catch up with the others at The Tip. As expected a most popular tourist spot, and not surprisingly a terrible track. Oh well, shouldn't complain, it would be even more popular and overcrowded if it was a good road. As the tide was out we were able to walk around to the Tip along the beach, past the mangroves, then we had a good clamber on the rocks up to the most northern spot on these shores. A lovely view, lots of little rocky islands scattered just offshore. All the obligatory photos and posing. As it was Richard's birthday we went back to their campspot at Pundsand Bay CP. A lovely beach, but not so nice CP. But it was nice to celebrate a birthday together. Helen had baked a lovely cake, and a bit of fun with silly presents.
Thursday was a bit of a nothing day, hanging around doing nothing, time seems to drag when you find yourself on a beach where you can't swim. Fish weren't biting either. Were hanging around again as it was Jamie's 9^th birthday on 26^th and we wanted to see her enjoy it. Well worth it. Both Jamie and Lewis have set treasure hunt games for us before, so I did a similar thing for her presents, it was fun. The next day, I think, they are all blurring together, we did a bit of track exploration up to the Jardine River. Absolutely delightful bush camp where we met a couple from Germany who have been camping around Oz for nearly 2 years! Did all the compare where we've been/what we enjoyed most etc (WA came tops on their list!). Camped at another CP that night as we were heading off for a cruise over to Thursday Island (TI) which left early at 7:30 from the Jetty closeby. Read on the notice board that there was Beer, Burgers and Beautiful People over at the fishing club Friday evening, so we all meandered over. A great evening, just the sort of place you would expect locals to hang out at in an isolated location. Very reminiscent of the old Middle East Days. The photos on the wall of the “trophies' had all the boys eager that they might be as lucky on our trip over to TI in the morning. Unfortunately, the day came and went with no such luck. TI was ok, local people very friendly, very small island. I surprised everyone when I said it reminded me of Canberra – if you weren't born there you were government! Short trip over to Horn Island for lunch and to visit the museum – was a bit disappointment really – the Bull Creek Aviation Museum is far more informative of Australias involvement during the war. I think Eugene, our skipper for the day, had been at the fishing club the night before as well, as at one point he dropped off to sleep, the boat started heading off course and Chauffeur was just about to tap him on the shoulder when he woke with a start and pulled the boat back on course, no kidding.
Saturday we finally left and started our trip south. A short days driving, approx 200Km to Billy's Landing – a nice clearing on the beach on the east coast. A bit blustery, but not cold. It was a nice evening.
Sunday 29^th August – 17,283km (finally remembered to check mileage again). Another birthday, this time Trev's! They will be picking up their trailer today, bet Rachel will be glad to have her proper kitchen back, and to not have to set up the tent each night. Trev was told of a good fishing spot near Wenlock Falls so we have decided to check it out. It has been rather a laborious haul into this place. A very windy, narrow and bumpy track. Eventually got there, but Richard and Helen and turned back. Trev took one look and headed off as well. We have stayed for a bit, can't drive all this way to not even cast a lure or 2. I've made lunch and will wait to see if chauffeur is lucky. Trev told us he didn't want to know if we caught anything. Well, chauffeur did catch a good pan-sized barra, but under the limit, fortunately it jumped off the hook just before being landed, so he didn't have to toy with his conscience. He also had a couple of other river fish but were released to swim away. After lunch we followed where we believed Trev had headed up to the Pascoe River. Caught up with him at the crossing, but he had had no luck, fishing that is, in another way he had had some luck when his trailer wheel hit a tree stumped and nearly upended. We ended up spending the night at Archer River. Not the Roadhouse but the actual river crossing which has some nice sandy banks. Found a nice spot with running water, and after a good rinse had some dinner. As it was Trev's birthday there was some nice cheese and biscuits shared, and some cake. I am all birthday'd out – 3 in a week!!
Tuesday 30^th August (17,591) saw us heading on south towards Lakefield. Not far down the track we found Trev out of the car, on his hands and knees checking out the nether regions of his vehicle. Diagnoses, a broken shock mount. But as nothing will stop him we continued on, hoping there might be spares available in Coen – Michael had sung the praises of the mechanic there :-) No luck so we pressed on again. Although the Peninsula Development Road (PDR) is the main road up to the top, it really is rather 'hairy' in places. The corrugations weren't bad, in fact it seemed it had recently been graded, but the dust is terrible, therefore visibility can be worse than a good old Yorkshire pea souper (or fog in Australian). The huge road trains thunder up as if they own the road, and you have to pull over and stop and wait until you can see the bumper of your car again. One time we nearly ran up the rear end of one of these road trains as it had slowed right down and we didn't see it until about 20 m away. All the locals tell us it has been a bad year up here for accidents, I can quite believe it. We have eventually arrived at the Lion's Den Hotel, about 30km south of Cooktown. Last time we drove past (on our way up to the top) it was still closed as it was early morning, but as it is in Michael's bush pub book, I was determined we should try and have a beer here this time. Turns out there is one of those (dare I say it) CP's as well. Not too bad, at least we are not designated square postage stamps to park on, and squashed in like sardines. There are some magnificent rainforest trees that we are camped under, and the actual hotel is a stone's throw away – well not one of my throws (but I might be able to spit further than I can throw:-). Will be checking it out as soon as the chauffeur has bathed, unfortunately no nice fresh creek to rinse in tonight.



Wednesday 31^st August – 18,101 Lion's Den Hotel – Noah's Beach Bloomfield Track
Well the Lion's Den was well worth it, very characterful. Set off early for the Bloomfield Track. Not sure what to expect, but I knew Ben had done it in a Tercel. As it turned out it is nothing challenging at all, in fact ordinary cars can do it. The rain forest is huge, dense and moist. The weather wasn't with us, the rain came, and went, and came back again unfortunately. But I guess you can't have all this 'green' unless there is a lot of water. Camped at Noah's beach – and sat in the car most of the afternoon trying to keep dry. Held off opening the camper in case it stopped raining, but no such luck. Sure enough when we did open up, the camper had leaked again, but I had been prepared and packed the bedding away in the drawers. Heavy rain during the night, but woke up to patchy sunshine and chauffeur dancing around in delight.xxxx

Monday 22nd Aug to Wed 24th Aug Weipa to Somerset Beach

Monday 22^nd August – 16,524 Weipa to Dalhunty River (OTL)
Up early this moring, well sort of, zip round to Woolies to restock on the fresh stuff. Vege shelves half empty, with a note to say the barge with the vegetables was late and not expected to arrive before 1.00pm! It reminded me of living in the middle east years ago. We take the availability of fresh foods in Perth for granted. All loaded up, and off we set. My stomach all churned up in anticipation of this Old Telegraph Line. Stopped for lunch at Moreton Telegraph Station, Trev and Rachael unloaded their trailer, from here on up the line they will be tenting – oh I so do not miss our tent. Just a few Kms in and we came to the Palm Creek crossing. I have heard quite a bit about this one on our travels. One of 'the difficult ones'. The boys did the obligatory recce and decided it was 'do able'. Trying my utmost not to let my stomach have control of me I waded across to take photos. The creek not deep or soft, but the drop down quite lumpy and a bit of a narrow channel. Off Trev went with the Hilux and there were no problems, even on the steep sandy ascent. Max's turn, again no problems, but heart I my mouth as I watched some big 'waves' and extreme angles. Djan on the back is quite wide, so when Max descends down a channel it looks like quite a tight squeeze. It is hard not to close my eyes, but I get in trouble when I don't 'shoot' a good video'. There are cries later, of you missed the best bit, when chauffeur uploads them to the computer. Trev was so impressed with the ease of his first crossing he confidently shot back for another go. Hah, not so easy in reverse, the drop down, was too big a jump up, and after a couple of attempts of what I would call 'thrashing' the vehicle he had to reverse out. On On, a couple more minor crossings, lots of bumps, plenty of sightings of the old Telegraph Poles, many of them curved over (is that from a fire?) and then we reached the Dalhunty River Crossing, a convenient place to camp for the night. Unfortunately, this is a popular track, and we had plenty of company.



Tuesday 23^rd August – 16,725 Dalhunty River - SomersetBeach
Set off from Dalhunty, with a tummy full of fear and anxiety. Why can't I be like everyone else and enjoy these 'challenging' tracks. I've tried every way of looking at it and thinking things through, but I just can't get rid this awful feeling in the pit of my stomach. I'm looking forward to today being over. The first crossing was ok, and a couple more. Then came Gun Shot. I took a careful walk down the chicken track, and this horrible monster jumped up (out of my stomach) and engulfed me. I don't want that 'cat let out of the bag' ever again. Needless to say Trev and chauffeur managed to get down and across without incident. Down the chicken track, as the other 2 tracks were vertical (no exageration) but chicken or not it was very steep and lumpy and narrow.. What does that say about me, not even up to chicken standard. When I asked chauffeur to let me out so I could hitch a lift up the by-pass road, as I couldn't continue on, he realised I was serious and had had enough, so unfortunately, we left Trev and Rachael to complete the Old Telegraph Line on their own. I was feeling extremely 'fragile' at this stage. We headed on to Bamaga via Injinoo. What delightful places. A sort of island/holiday place. The locals seem more Polynesian. Managed to speak to Richard and Helen and arranged to meet them at The Tip Wednesday lunch time (Richard's Birthday).
We wanted to find a deserted beach to spend the night (if that is possible in this popular tourist spot). Armed with a mud map and driving past the Croc Shop for 'local info' we drove on down to Somerset Beach. It turned out to be the perfect spot to calm my frayed nerves. It is a beautiful little clearing in a small bay. Opposite ,about 2km off the mainland, is Elliott Island. If it wasn't for the fact of the croc danger, you really couldn't get a better beach - chauffeur might not agree, as he has lost a lure, and no nibbles at all. Come evening, as we hadn't been able to get in touh with Michael, and we wanted to be all together at The Tip, we decided to phone Marion to get his latest GPS co-ordinates so see how far away he was. She texted us his GPS points, but then phoned back a few minutes later to say he had got the car stuck in a wash out and was walking into Coen!! OMG! We were just digesting this when M himself phones. He was trying to phone the police but the call came through to us. Yep, he was walking into Coen (in the dark). These was nothing we could do being 500 km away, and having been in Coen a week ago, knew that he would have phone coverage there and be able to find somewhere to stay for the night. Chauffeur then logged on and plotted his GPS points so we knew exactly where he was. Another phone call later Michael told us he had been in touch with the police (as his car was in a 'precarious' angle and needed retrieving) and Charlie (land owner/caravan park owner? Not sure which yet) was coming to pick him up. What a day! Time for bed.



Wednesday-24th August Somerset Beach-The Tip – 16930
Phone rang at 5:40am. Our neighbours Mario and Linda from Mandurah. Our garage had been broken into and someone tried to steal Pedro (Pajero). Apparently, Linda unable to sleep, went outside to get the newpaper and saw our garage door open. Mario came out, and disturbed someone (receiving a good whack to the side of the head in the process) trying to hot wire Pedro. He'd called police and done all the right things for us – what a blessing to have good neighbours eh? Still not sure how our garage door came to be disabled. Went back to bed to mull over things. Not long till Michael rang again. He is fine, Charlie took care of him and will take him into Coen today. Retrieving his vehicle will be interesting. We will talk to the others when we meet up with them at The Tip to celebrate Richard's Birthday! When I think of all the places we have been, hardly ever having phone coverage, unless in a largish town, and here we are miles from anywhere, and we have coverage just when it is needed – co-incidence? :-) I don't think we could get further away from home without leaving these shores if we tried.

Saturday 20th August - Sunday 21st August

Saturday 20 August – 16,278 Km



An interesting night – the wind howled around the cab all night – made a peculiar whistling – despite chauffeur packing out the gap between the toolbox and Djan. We missed the vol-au-vent bird. In the morning Jamie and Lewis played on a coconut tree log – whilst Rachael and Trev went for a walk along the beach. Was hoping there would be no accidents, as they tried to balance 'walking' on the rolling log, being egged on my chauffeur all the while. Slowly decamped and decided we had to explore the 'Cafe' sign further up the road. When we had passed it yesterday, it took me quite a while to register to what I had just see – in the middle of the rain forest, miles from anywhere there was a 'Cafe' sign. Rachael confirmed to me I wasn't hallucinating. So we all checked it out, sure enough, it was for real, and what a delight – Portland Sands used to have a long jetty, nothing there now but a sheltered bay, mangroves, crocs, flowers everywhere, half a dozen houses clinging to the hillside and this little cafe on the verandah of this house. Civilisation in isolation :-). We all had morno's of peacan pies, various teas and hot chocolates. Checked out the local knowledge of the Frenchman's Track which we wanted to attempt later that day. Were told it was only 12 km from the main track before you came to Pascoe River, which was the main obstacle, so it wasn't too far a treck to go and check it out. However, weren't warned that there was nowhere to turn round once you got there and decided to chicken out – at least not with a trailer, which everyone had recommended not to take. This only spurred Trev on even more to have a look see. We followed the track to the Pascoe River Crossing and pulled up short of the steep descent to the actual river while we performed the dutiful professional 4WDriver activity of checking the track first. Trev and chauffeur hiked down the rutted steep descent into the water to check the depth and the severity of the exit. First impressions were not encouraging, especially from what we had heard from previous people. Unfortunately, these “previous people” hadn't recognised that we were members of the Mitsubishi 4WD club, and there is not much that would stop us in our tracks. We reviewed the best line in, across, and out of the rocky exit and decided it was doable (after lunch). So after a quick salmon sandwich – keeping fishing smelly tins away from crocs, the boys decided the best angle of attack was for Dmax to go first, in the even that Trev and the trailer had trouble on the exit. Other than a slightly dented front bash plate the Dmax walked down the slope, swam across the river, and waddled up the steep rocky exit without missing a beat. In the meatime, a Prado coming in the opposite direction waddled down, swam across, needed a couple of goes at the exit and was then on its way. Then it was Trev's turn, who also accomplished the task with no difficulties. After speaking to the Prado man on the condition of the track we were about to engage, we were told there were some quite rutted sections ahead and the Wenlock River crossing would be no problem. As we subsequently found out, it was very rutted, but no problems. Despite meeting a number of vehicles at the Wenlock crossing exit who were having difficulty getting up and suggested that we winch ourselves out, Dmax would having nothing of this and waddled up the more challenging exit followed shortly after by Trev from whence we continued our merry way in to Weipa to catch up with Richard and Helen. Still no sign of Michael. We arrived in Weipa and watched the sunset over the Gulf of Carpentaria (having been on the other side of the cape for sunrise), feeling very proud of ourselves and our vehicles. It had been a very good, encouraging day. A very good warm up for the OTL (Old Telegraph Line).



Sunday 21^st August
Lazing around the Weipa Caravan Park – washing, etc. cleaning and tidying up getting ready for the next part, whoopeee. Drove round to the Albatross Hotel for a couple of coldies and to stock up on some medicine to take up to The Tip

Wednesday 17 - Friday 19

Monday 15 – Wednesday 17 – Lakeland
After the shopping in Mareeba (chauffeur forgetting to find to look for a fuel filter) we headed off to Lakefield NP. Took a detour to the coast to check out Flattery Bay. Several creek crossings and 'ponds'. At first we had Michael wading out to check them out. I had my first drive through one of these ponds. Everyone had driven through and chauffeur was out front doing his other job of 'photographer' so I thought I would be helpful and move Max up to the edge of the pond. Unfortunately photographer got in as passenger before I could swop seats. I told chauffeur to instruct me as we drove out. Halfway through he starts telling me “In a bit, in a bit”. Well, I ask you does that mean 'in to the middle' or 'in to the outside edge'? Apparently it meant 'In to the outside edge”. My cries of do you mean left or right fell on deaf ears! No wonder I don't like the chauffeur's job. However, that little pond was nothing. The next one Trevor waded out, with sticks, and after much walking about assured us there was nothing deeper than waist height – now his waist height would be up to my armpits. A couple put the tarps over the bonnets, and through we went. I was very impressed as Trev stood there on the shallowest point and everyone driving straight for him until the last minute when he managed to step out of the way. We all got across without any drama, everyone happy with the performance of their vehicles. We continued on to the coast, a long slow drive. Michael happy as larry, he shot off down the beach to explore. None of us were that impressed with the beach. It was good hard sand, but the water was brown (and we all knew the threat of crocs would not tempt any of us to swim). Have never seen so much rubbish on a beach. It was littered all the way along the 20kms that we drove. Driftwood galore, but every other sort of rubbish you could think of – so sad. However, on the drive back I saw 6 pool noodles, I have picked up 2 and hidden them for a future treat for Jamie and Lewis when we reach a pool without crocs. It was a long driving day and eventually camped for the night at a place called Horseshoe Lagoon. There was a bit of a spectacular drive but the sun was very low at this stage and driving west it was quite difficult to see at that time and fully appreciate it – but it is noted that it is definitely a Henry Drive. Horseshoe Lagoon seemed to be free of crocs so we slept peacefully.



Wednesday 17^th August 15,629
Decamped Horseshoe Lagoon and followed main track up to Old Laura Homestead. What an amazing place – and even more amazing people who pioneered the place over 100 years ago. There was a great write up about the history, talking about the cattle 'before the ticks did them in'. They also had a bit of luck with breeding horses, and had a good stud with 'Winston' but the offspring were a bit prone to 'legginess'. We all had such a chuckle. The children were prolific as well – they didn't have telly in them days. Talking of which, we don't have it out here ourselves either, can't complain, heh, heh. Checked out a few more lagoons and stopped at Kalpower for morno's. Met some relies there – well Djan's well-to-do cousin. Yep, another Travelander but the Premium Model. A lady called Margy, who had taken a year off work from Canberra to do the 'circuit'. We did all the 'comparisons', etc. it really was like catching up with long lost relatives. No doubt we will cross paths a few more times as she heads up to the Cape as well. In fact we stayed so long chatting, not only was it a morno's stop we had lunch as well. More lagoons in the afternoon. Michael had detoured off, he wanted to see Cape Melville. We should catch up again soon. The driving got quite bumpy, one of the dry creeks called Jam Tin Creek – chauffeur thought it was Tim Tam Creek and that had him drooling in no time. We have now set up for the night in Salt Water Creek. A nice open ground not too close to the water. Bird life galore – quite a few bats this evening. I think a frog has just landed on my foot – my croc shot off so quickly it nearly landed in the fire – much to the mirth of our camping companions.
Thursday 18^th August – 15,802
Richard and Helen went off to Archer River whilst we decided to accompany Trev and Rachael to Charlotte Bay via the Lilyvale Station Road. Weren't sure if it was a private road and if we could get through. Quite an interesting drive and when we got to the station after letting ourselves through a few gates we came to the homestead. The tutor was home with a couple of children. The youngest was having a lesson on The Air and the tutor invited Jamie and Lewis in to watch/listen. Very interesting. The son and tutor advised us it was a public 'road' through their property and we could get down to a very picturesque campsite near the beach but to beware of the salties. If we then wanted to continue north up the track to Port Stanley we might not get through because there was a 'boggy' section. We got through to the beach and campsite (called Salty Creek). It really was picturesque and if we had been in WA would probably have set up camp early and enjoyed the beach. However, there was a decent sized salty sunning itself on the bank only a few metres away, and when Trev and chauffeur walked down the sand it slipped into the little creek/inlet and we could see it cruising around. Camping on the beach takes on a whole different perspective when you have to watch where you are going and swimming is definitely a no no – buggar! So after the fishermen were discouraged with nothing going for their lures we pushed on heading north to Port Stanley to see what this 'boggy' section was like. A biking tour passed us at the first creek crossing and they also told us there was about a one km section of boggy stuff (which they could bypass) and also a significant river crossing at the end with a steep jump up at the far side but if we had winches we should be ok. So off we went. Yep, there was a boggy section. Trev being in front and towing a trailer got stuck, but with Rachael at the wheel (having been piggybacked by Trev over the mud and back to the car) and with both boys digging, they were soon out. Plenty of scouting the trail in front and we were off again, but not for long. This time it took a couple of hours. All the recovery gear came out and the snatch straps attached in various combinations. It was really only the trailer that was making things a bit difficult, but Trev was up to his knees in mud – and it was quite entertaining watching him push Max as he needed a bit of help to get out of the ruts. Fortunately, the black mud wasn't stinky and there were no mossies. The boys did a grand job, and eventually we were on terra-firma again. All the digging and filling ruts with logs had occupied us for so long, lunch time had been and long gone and it was decided to just have a few nibbles in the car and see what this river at the end of the track held in store for us. It turned out not too bad. Quite a wide river crossing, but not much water, just a lot of very soft sand, with quite a soft steep bank at the far side. Trev let his tyres down further and made it across with no problems, just asking us not to run him down as he came back to try and 'decake' some of the mud off (it looked like he had spray on wellies). Our Max cruised across and up with no problems, but we were in 4L, lockers on, and not 'hanging about'. Eventually hit the road from the PDR and turned east to Port Stanley – oh what a pleasure to be driving east at this time in the afternoon when the sun is low in the sky. Found the 'clearing' where a few fishermen seem to be camped and as soon as the trailer and our Djan were opened we delved into the fridge for a nice cold, well earnt beer. Not sure if we had lunch, snacks, or dinner – it was a sort of blend. At sunset a gaggle of bats set off overhead – now I think I know what that 'dribble' was that I saw down the side of the canvas this morning :-) As I am sitting writing this in the cab of Max, chauffeur is in Djan 'decaking' mud. I am being wobbled around as much as some of the tracks we have been on – he must be having to scrub really hard. All seems still now, it might be safe to retire for the night.



Friday 19^th July 15954 Port Charlotte Bay to Iron Range NP – Chilli Beach
Quite a nice cruisy day, no hard 4WD but very interesting landscape. Coming up on to the Dividing Range was beautiful. Quite dusty in places, and a lot of dusty spots. Most of it gravel, but stretches of tarmac (have eventually learnt that these stretches of hard top are overtaking places :-). We passed through Archer River Roadhouse expecting to find Richard and Helen nearby, but no such luck. We called out over the radio every half hour or so hoping to get a reply, but expect they have gone on to Weipa (we'll find them tomorrow). After Archer River, we continnued north unntil the turn off west for Iron Range NP. It is just lovely. We must have passed at least 6 Landy's heading south . Chauffeur said he thouught they must be the BTDT crew. (been there done that). The road into Chilli beach was incredible. If you shut your eyes for a second you could think you had fallen asleep for an hours, so quickly did the landscape change – from flat grassy plains, low lying scrub very typical of WA, to tall overhanging rainforrest, with creek crossinngs. Mt Tozer lookout was beautiful with termite hills being illuminated by the low afternoon sun. On the way into Chilli we stopped at the WWII 'airport' amazing to think there were 30,000 troops here during the war (American and Australian). We think Chilli Beach might hhave been thheir R & R location. Have arrived here now and it is rather 'full'. Campers everywhere, but we have managed to squeeze in, with ocean views, coconuts everywhere and not a croc to be seen. Trying to cook dinner, but there is a strong sea breeze so am having to watch the gas doesn't blow out – vegetarian dhal tonnight – yum. Chauffeur just stuck his head in and told me it is ready so I had better go. PS I am not a bad typist, it is this wretched keyboard ad I am fed up deleting and retyping and addig letters, so this is what you get ;-) XXXX (That is not kisses to everyone, just my little message to I know How much of mmy blog I have posted.

Lake Tinaroo to Lakeland

Saturday 13th- Monday 15^th Aug Lake Tinaroo to Lakeland -15,318
Well the R & R had to come to an end and after 4 nights in the most idyllic setting, rain forest, grass, over looking the lake we decided we had to push on. We had originally thought we would only be here for 3 nights, but Trev's mum and dad, Merrill and Jerry along with her sister Jan and husband Serge arrived . Suddenly our 'surrogate' grandparent role was ursurped by the Real Thing! But we forgave them, we thoroughly enjoyed their company (and Jerry had a little dinghy :-). Unfortunately the lake was too cold so the fish weren't real hungry although Jerry (assisted by Lewis and Jamie) potted a few red claw – like a marron. Like took on a completely different pace for a few days, and we lazed around and let ourselves be entertained by the cheeky birds. The kurrawongs are as bold as any magpie at home, and I had to watch the kitchen table closely any time there was food about. I got my revenge by offering them a couple of wasabi peas. They fought over my prune stones but soon rejected them only to be hungrily gobbled down by the ducks. Chauffeur waas delighted that he seemed to have finally outrun the vol au vong bird that has serenaded him faithfully at dawn everyday, but the kookaburras were just as diligent. Chauffeur was more successful with his 2^nd chocolate cake and it was eagerly devoured at our morning to decided where and when we should push on.



It was decided to head to Lakeland, inland from Mossman, about 200 Kms north from Atherton. Again a beautiful drive. Scenery so different from WA. We stocked up on goodies in Mareeba, it might be a couple of weeks before we hit a decent fresh food shop again – and a medicine shop – there are many restrictions in these northern lands! As we drove north we enjoyed the vista. We seemed to be on a flat fertile plain surrounded by mountains. Checked out a mango vineyard, unfortunately not mango season, but we had a tasting and encouraged Michael to buy a couple of bottles of mango champagne for us to celebrate with when we get to the 'Top'. Checked into another one of my least favourite places (CP) and were welcomed heartily by the local kids (kookaburra's) oh boy, are they going to be in trouble with chauffeur at dawn. Done the obligatory washing whilst the boys checked out with other 'tourists' here on roads and conditions up north. I am starting to get nervous. Seen quite a few photos here and there, and I think it best not to look too cklose. Good thing is there has been good weather for a few weeks, so the creek crossings shouldn't be too bad (wonder about the croc's though). We bought some salmon today, and had such a lovely dinner. There is something so good about cooking and eating outside, the whole thing is just to pleasurable. My camp kitchen in Djan is working really well. Well, I think I will stop this drivel and get in some shut eye, the dawn chorus is not far away. Not sure when we will next have coverage.

Thursday 11th July - Undara to Lake Tinaroo – 14,858 Km plus a bit more

We camped Wednesday night at Undara – place of the longest lava flow tunnels in the world. The campsite is an absolute delight. Lots of space in a bush setting. The main reception area, complete with bar and restaurant is made up of old railway carriages joined by very large undercover areas and rain catchment tin roofs. Very well done, and non-sardine like – all for $20 a night. Thursday morning everyone did a tour of the tunnel/s except me (not really interested in paying $47.50 for a possible bat scare!!) so I walked up to a bluff and sat on a granite outcrop overlooking the valley with my iphone listening to Handel's Water Music – I was in heaven. We were moving on to Atherton today so we had to pack up and head off. Hard top driving so it was a doddle and quite interesting. Heading East on Kennedy Highway we passed some hot springs, but decided they were a bit too hot and set off for Millstream Falls. These falls are the widest in Australia and well worth a look at and a nice place to have lunch. On through Ravenshoe (is that Ravens Hoe or Raven Shoe?) the road now heading north we then pulled into the crater at Mt Hypipamee. If you have vertigo you wouldn't enjoy this:) The scenery along this road is Beautiful, reminding us of NZ. So hilly, windy roads, lots of rain forest – our Henry would love to be taken for a drive here. The soil looks so rich, dark reddy brown. Arriving in Atherton mid afternoon we headed to the Info place to 'educated' on the 'must sees' by a lovely couple from Corrigin – this place is full of West Australians – well who would want to be in Perth at this time of year (heh, heh, sorry guys, I couldn't resist that). Decided to camp out at Lake Tinaroo at Kauri Creek. Can it get any better. Lush green everywhere – I am overdosing on the massive trees, lots of grass to camp on and a deep blue lake to fish in. The Kurrawong birds are so cheeky and I am sure they would hop on your lap and steal from your plate if you let them. In fact a kookaburra stole the bacon rind off Richard's plate – he only just managed to get his fingers out of the way.

Tuesday 9th August - 14,010 Km O'Shanessy River Crossing

Tuesday 9^th August – 14,010 O'Shannessy River Crossing
Michael found us – or rather we heard a vehicle in the distance and Richard got on the radio. Sure enough it was him and he had sailed right passed our sign. It had been a good evening, this time it was Rachael's turn to 'have a few'. I must admit her 'fews' are a lot fewer than mine :-)
On the road again heading for Normanton. Not much of an interesting drive, so we gobbled up the mileage and arrived early afternoon. A quick nosey around the Tourist Information centre, check in at my least favourite of places (caravan park) and we were off to check out the local supermarket. Quite dismal – how do people survive in places like this? Oh well, I'd better not grumble too much – although we still couldn't buy any cask wine -I will be drinking my chauffeur's beer at this rate – how long can I eke out a litre of wine? Chauffeur had noticed a “Tight arse Tuesday” sign at one of the local pubs - $15 meals! Decided we would splash out, heh heh. Caught up on all the domestic stuff (yes washing still gets done on holiday, maybe not quite so frequently) it certainly didn't take long to put the shopping away. Donned best shorts and shirts and set off to find the Albion Hotel (with census form under arm). Rachael certainly outdoes me, dressing up with high heels and make up. The first pub we passed (called The Purple Pub) would have done well in our Xmas light competition) it was done up like a bordello! Were very impressed with Tight Arse Tuesday. Very characterful building – all wood – complete with cute puppy, (Alby). Fortunately before Malcolm ordered we caught sight of the meals coming out of the kitchen, absolutely huge, so we decided to share. A seafood platter and 2 'pots' of XXXX Bitter (roughly half a pint) cost $20. Malcolm nearly came running back to the table shouting “start the car, start the car' (Ikea advert). A few more pots were ordered (yes they were $2.50) enjoyed our large seafood platter and we mulled over some of the slightly ambiguous census questions. A good time was had. Michael's chicken parmigiana was so large he went off to the kitchen to ask for a doggy bag (not for Alby, but for his own lunch tomorrow) and he came back with a large strip of Alfoil. Country Pubs for you, gotta love it, good old down to earth basics. Someone in a nearby tent, snored all night – another black spot against Caravan Parks (Cps). At least I bush camps we know who it is who is snoring.

Monday 8th August- 13,976 Km Lawn Hill Gorge

Monday 8^th August – 13,976 Km- Lawn Hill Gorge



Decamped, yet again, but oh how easy it is with our 'Jan'. We set off for Lawn Hill Gorge to hire some canoes. We paddled upstream, portaged around the side of some small rapids and continued on again. Spotted a couple of Crocadylus Johnsoni (freshies) resting on the banks – quite large, I was not going to swimming today. It was lovely – nice to get a bit of exercise as well. After lunch we set off for the bush camp that we had prebooked and paid $5.30 per person. Arriving there later after walking around one of the prime fossil sites in Australia (I think us fossils doing the walking were more interesting) we decided it was not a very nice site (no shade). We had got talking to some army guys at the fossil site who had suggested camping a bit further on at O'Shanassy River. So here we are – squeezed in a bit – but all is good, and will be even better after a cold beer. Michael deceided he wanted a veg out day and would catch up with us later. We have left signs for him – hope he keeps his eyes off the GPS and on the road or he might drive straight by! Over and out for now, I'm off for that beer.

Suday 7th August - 13,713 - Hells Gate

Sunday 7^th July – 13,713



Woke up to discover that those little midgie thingamebobs had bitten me. Half an hour down the road we arrived at Hells Gate. Those of us who didn't have an auxillary fuel tank, filled up, not a bad price at $1.88, whilst the rest of us used the toilets and discovered what an interesting couple owned the place. Further east we turned south into Lawn Hill NP. Another long bumpy drive, not too much to see, but with a country this size, you get days like that getting to somewhere else. We found Adel's Grove campsite a bit posh, with coach loads of tourists being shipped in from Mt Isa, but there was no where else so at $27 a night we got a spot under the trees just a stones throw away from Lawn Hill Creek. It was very refreshing, and we all played on the pontoon and rope swing. After getting dinner prepped, we headed up to the deck/restaurant area for sundowners. It was very pleasant, Malcolm and Michael discovering that XXXX now do quite a nice 'full strength' bitter. After a few rounds we were feeling no pain. Jamie had plonked herself on Malcolm's lap with wet knotty hair and it wasn't long before he found himself with my brush in his hand discovering the joys of untangling long hair. Not having a daughter those 'joys' were new to him. He was asked later if Jamie was his grandaughter! We delivered her safely back to her mum and dad and enjoyed our pre-prepared dinner.

Moday 24 July

Sunday 24^th July – At Perry's on the Daly

Trev, Richard and Malcolm set off early in the dinghy eager for some good fishing. Had a lovely slow start, nice and warm, beautiful tropical surroundings. Us girls got down to some house keeping, checking out the washing machine facilities etc. Decided to put up the awnings for the first time, what fun, think I made a good job. Had lots of help for Jamie and Lewis with the mallet and tent pegs for the guy ropes. The boys returning late morning, had seen a croc on the bank but caught nothing but a cat fish. During lunch, Malcolm got a fire going and attempted a chocolate cake, so I hopped in there with a bread dough. The wood was deceptively hot, so outside of cake was a tad toooo dark, but was able to cut it in half and scoop out enough insides to share with everyone, despite the crusty coating everyone approved. The bread was next and with only a few shades too dark on the underside, it got the ticks up at dinner. We spotted a large croc up river ,on the opposite bank thankfully. The boys went off to try their luck again with losing lures, and us girls finished off the washing and pressing(once dry, fold and press back into the box :-). Michael gave me a computer lesson. If you are reading this on my blog you will know he is a good teacher! The lads came back, Malcolm with the biggest smile on his face. He had landed 3 very large barra, and Trevor a slightly smaller one. They went off to 'process' them and then it was all on for us to make up salads/veges, get the fire restoked. Trev cooked up the fish beautifully over the fire which we thoroughly enjoyed along with my fresh bread, despite a slightly burnt bottom, it was ok. We will have more than enough for another full meal for all of us (that is 7 adults and 2 chilluns) so despite the dinghy costing $200 to hire that is still good value. Fish that fresh is soooo good.

Forgot to mention, last night whilst Trev was picking wood up for the fire he disturbed quite a long python, we were all interested and took lots of photos. Later that evening, Rachael nearly stepped on it whilst walking back to their trailer. This snake parked itself in the middle of our campers and was very slow in making its exit. So tonight we are very aware of lighting the ground in front of us and not blindly trecking over the dirt! It certainly makes you more aware of nature around you. The owner told us they used to have a python in the ablution block, and everyone was fascinated when it ate a possum, giving it a rather large girth. Apparently it made for very interesting python poo! - fur and bones etc :-) It has been a lovely day, and tomorrow will retrace our steps back to Stuart Highway, turn north and head back into the top end of Litchfield Park.

Sunday 24 Perry's

Sunday 24^th July – At Perry's on the Daly

Trev, Richard and Malcolm set off early in the dinghy eager for some good fishing. Had a lovely slow start, nice and warm, beautiful tropical surroundings. Us girls got down to some house keeping, checking out the washing machine facilities etc. Decided to put up the awnings for the first time, what fun, think I made a good job. Had lots of help for Jamie and Lewis with the mallet and tent pegs for the guy ropes. The boys returning late morning, had seen a croc on the bank but caught nothing but a cat fish. During lunch, Malcolm got a fire going and attempted a chocolate cake, so I hopped in there with a bread dough. The wood was deceptively hot, so outside of cake was a tad toooo dark, but was able to cut it in half and scoop out enough insides to share with everyone, despite the crusty coating everyone approved. The bread was next and with only a few shades too dark on the underside, it got the ticks up at dinner. We spotted a large croc up river ,on the opposite bank thankfully. The boys went off to try their luck again with losing lures, and us girls finished off the washing and pressing(once dry, fold and press back into the box :-). Michael gave me a computer lesson. If you are reading this on my blog you will know he is a good teacher! The lads came back, Malcolm with the biggest smile on his face. He had landed 3 very large barra, and Trevor a slightly smaller one. They went off to 'process' them and then it was all on for us to make up salads/veges, get the fire restoked. Trev cooked up the fish beautifully over the fire which we thoroughly enjoyed along with my fresh bread, despite a slightly burnt bottom, it was ok. We will have more than enough for another full meal for all of us (that is 7 adults and 2 chilluns) so despite the dinghy costing $200 to hire that is still good value. Fish that fresh is soooo good.

Forgot to mention, last night whilst Trev was picking wood up for the fire he disturbed quite a long python, we were all interested and took lots of photos. Later that evening, Rachael nearly stepped on it whilst walking back to their trailer. This snake parked itself in the middle of our campers and was very slow in making its exit. So tonight we are very aware of lighting the ground in front of us and not blindly trecking over the dirt! It certainly makes you more aware of nature around you. The owner told us they used to have a python in the ablution block, and everyone was fascinated when it ate a possum, giving it a rather large girth. Apparently it made for very interesting python poo! - fur and bones etc :-) It has been a lovely day, and tomorrow will retrace our steps back to Stuart Highway, turn north and head back into the top end of Litchfield Park.

Sat 23 July 11,118 km Douglas Hot Springs to Perry's on the Daly

Saturday 23^rd July – Douglas Hot Springs to Perry's – 11118 Km

Morning eventually arrived and we were all relieved the night's noise was over. After another quick soak in the hot pool we were refreshed enough to pack up and move on. We headed up to Oolloo Crossing on the Daly River. The boys got the rods out and headed to the river bank. After I had refreshed the flask with hot water I headed down to hear that Richard and Helen and seen a barra, but the bad news was it was in a crocs mouth!! Hard to believe there we were finally in croc territory. Were hoping to get into Litchfield Park so turned back and headed West. Unfortunately discovered the south entrance into the park is still closed, the heavy rains this year have prevented the rangers from getting in and removing the crocs from the billabongs!! That was enough for me, not interested in 'trespassing'. Moved on to the Daly River Inn for lunch, not memorable, so we made our own lunch, crossed the river, first major river. We all watched out for crocs. Have parked ourselves at Perry's campsite on the banks of the Daly. Read 'high banks', crocs can't climb. It is beautiful, have all made ourselves comfortable and the boys have booked a dinghy for tomorrow and are now busy rigging up their rods in eager anticipation of the barra's they might catch tomorrow. The owner of this place was telling us about a memorable occasion in Mandurah when his mate pulled a 6ft octopus into the boat – there were a few 'entanglements', that's not quite the exact words, but I wont repeat them here. Looking forward to a peaceful night – anything will be peaceful after last night, none of us got much shut eye.

Sunday 7th August - 13,713 - Hells Gate

Saturday - 6^th July – 13,257



Up early at sunrise to walk around the Lost City. It really is quite amazing. Some of the 'sculptures' reminded me of the head statues of Easter Island. A shame we had to rush, I could have spent another hour or so meandering around and contemplating all the different rock shapes. Set off by 9.00 for a gruelling day's drive. Ninety nine percent gravel. A bit of a surprise to drive through Booroloola and discover there was 'reception'. A couple of phone calls to the boys whilst refuelling, checked out the shop – quite depressing, but was amused to see that the Liquor Shop (a refrigerated container in the back corner of the shop) was chained up so tightly – Malcolm commented you could moor up a liner to it securely. They only opened at 2:30 and only sold cases of XXXX at $65!!! We slogged on. Lunch at Robinson Creek River. And another slog on. We crossed the Queensland border and all stopped for a group photo – including Max, Hudson and the new kid on the block 'Jan'. Hells Gate Roadhouse was only 50Km down the road so we trudged on but found a clearing to camp in before then. I am sitting there now, covered in little midges, that are flying down and around inside my shirt but at least they are not biting. They seem to be attracted to the computer after dark and anyone using it. Gave up after half an hour with a shirt full of the little buggars.

Saturday 6th August - Lost City - 13,257 Km

Friday 5^th August – 12,943



Set off for Roper Bar. The road house there reminded me of a Chinese/Indian grocery/dept store. Bits of everything. We crossed the river, the boys drowned some lures, and the girls had morning tea. When a few lures were lost we packed up, came back over the river and headed south continuing on the Savannah Way. Not a very interesting drive, (for the passenger) maybe I should say comfortable (not) lots of dip a de doo dahs and whooop de dahhs, creek crossings, and bull dust pits. Pulled in at Butterfly Springs for arvos, butterflys galore – I have never seen anything like it (other than in a Richard Attenborough DVD) a delight to see. The French couple last night had recommended the Lost City campsite. On arrival we approved too. Malcolm was looking a bit bushy around the chin so out came the beard trimmer and scissors. Within minutes, Jamie and Lewis were hovering. My little helper was in with the comb and brushing Malcolm off, whilst Lewis lept off the parking bollards and entertained all. It seemed quite a source of amusement to Jamie that Malcolm had more hair on his chest than head. We finished up with a promise that I would 'tidy' up Lewis in the near future (with mum's approval).

Friday 5th August - Roper Bar - 12,943 Km

Friday 5^th August – 12,943



Set off for Roper Bar. The road house there reminded me of a Chinese/Indian grocery/dept store. Bits of everything. We crossed the river, the boys drowned some lures, and the girls had morning tea. When a few lures were lost we packed up, came back over the river and headed south continuing on the Savannah Way. Not a very interesting drive, (for the passenger) maybe I should say comfortable (not) lots of dip a de doo dahs and whooop de dahhs, creek crossings, and bull dust pits. Pulled in at Butterfly Springs for arvos, butterflys galore – I have never seen anything like it (other than in a Richard Attenborough DVD) a delight to see. The French couple last night had recommended the Lost City campsite. On arrival we approved too. Malcolm was looking a bit bushy around the chin so out came the beard trimmer and scissors. Within minutes, Jamie and Lewis were hovering. My little helper was in with the comb and brushing Malcolm off, whilst Lewis lept off the parking bollards and entertained all. It seemed quite a source of amusement to Jamie that Malcolm had more hair on his chest than head. We finished up with a promise that I would 'tidy' up Lewis in the near future (with mum's approval).

Thursday 4th August - 12,680 Km - Gunlom Falls

Wednesday 3^rd August – 12,550

Decamped and headed off to Katherine. Richard and Helen and already left as they needed to buy another fridge. In Katherine we went to restock the medicine chest – boy oh boy are they strict here. Medicine shops dont open until 2pm. More on that later. We bought tickets for the Katherine Gorge boat trip. It didn't have the WOW factor that other gorges had. I don't know if we are all gorged out. The gorge is huge, but not the best colours. Might also have been the sheep mentality of 60 people on a boat all following one another. Not really my thing. Saw quite a lot of freshies, baking on the banks. Back into town afterwards to try another booze crooze. Successful this time, but the first place, with a guard on door) didnt have any goon boxes so I went around the corner to the next place whilst Malcolm paid for his beer. Bingo I was in luck and as you can only buy 2 litre casks in NT I picked up 2. Promptly, but politely told that you can only buy one 2 litre cask a day and only before 6:00pm – I had 2 minutes to go. Would I have been a grumpy bum if I had been 2 minutes later. On top of all that, you have to show identity!!

Wednesday 3rd August - Katherine12,550

Wednesday 3^rd August – 12,550

Decamped and headed off to Katherine. Richard and Helen and already left as they needed to buy another fridge. In Katherine we went to restock the medicine chest – boy oh boy are they strict here. Medicine shops dont open until 2pm. More on that later. We bought tickets for the Katherine Gorge boat trip. It didn't have the WOW factor that other gorges had. I don't know if we are all gorged out. The gorge is huge, but not the best colours. Might also have been the sheep mentality of 60 people on a boat all following one another. Not really my thing. Saw quite a lot of freshies, baking on the banks. Back into town afterwards to try another booze crooze. Successful this time, but the first place, with a guard on door) didnt have any goon boxes so I went around the corner to the next place whilst Malcolm paid for his beer. Bingo I was in luck and as you can only buy 2 litre casks in NT I picked up 2. Promptly, but politely told that you can only buy one 2 litre cask a day and only before 6:00pm – I had 2 minutes to go. Would I have been a grumpy bum if I had been 2 minutes later. On top of all that, you have to show identity!!

Tuesday 2nd August - Gunlom Falls 12,290 Km

Tuesday 2^nd August – 12,290 km

Time for egg and bacon breakfast, before heading up to yet another plunge pool – how much more of this can I take :) Was sensible today and put my hiking boots on. Ankle slightly swollen and a strange colour (like I have a severe sunburn) but it is ok. Will take Gandalf (walking stick) with me. Headed off to the plunge pool to discover it was slightly warmer – very nice. Swam half way across to the falls but something with a long nose popped up about 6 metres in front of me. As I was at the back of the pack no one else saw it, but I was having a 'sensible' day and realising that I was wet enough to have washed off most of the dirt and dust I would go back and guard our shoes :-). Do my team recognise the sacrifice some of us make? And who else was going to take photos of the 'kids' leaping off the falls? One more pool to check out before we departed Kakadu. We arrived at Gunlom for lunch after quite a long haul over corrugations. Max handled it well. Gave my ankle a rest and had a computer lesson with my 'tutor' :-) whilst the others went off to let their inner kids take over. I worked on getting the photos ready to upload onto the blog. Next coverage, it might happen, finally! Kept moving, leaving Kakadu – it was a very good experience. Quick stop in Pine Creek, fuel for some, Skype chat for others, and air up and Magnum for the Driver-he thoroughly enjoyed it. Arrived at Edith Falls in plenty of time for a leisurely camp. Now my 'C's wont work and I have to press it 3 or 4 times to get one, grrrr – Keyboard is probably full of outback dust.

Monday - 1st August - Jim Jim Falls 12,180

Monday 1^st August – 12,150 Km

Today headed back down the track to Jim Jim falls but turning right down to Twin Falls. On arrival found a couple of walks. One up the escarpment to the head of the falls where you could swim. The second being a short walk to a boat ($12.50) which ferried you up the gorge where there was another short but very scrambly walk/clamber to the base of the pool. We headed upwards first, hopefully before it got too hot. Quite a long climb, but the views always make it worthwhile. There were little arrows to keep you on the trail. However, at times you are so intense looking down where to put feet it is easy to go off track. We will blame it on Lewis, who with youth and agility pushed on ahead and led us up this beautiful butterfly filled gorge which became a dead end. Retraced our steps to look for the real track and promptly slipped and twisted my ankle badly. Recovered enough 15 minutes later to 'gingerly' carry on . But the nausea and tunnel vision had give me quite a fright. Malcolm found me a stick – half a tree trunk actually and was struggeling to carry it. Proto type 2 worked better and we found the plunge pools at the top. The cool water did my injury the world of good and the views and scenery lift the spirits. Eventually decided we had better make the descent, and was relieved to discover my ankle held up. After lunch we headed over to the boat ad chugged up the gorge to discover things can get better. Richard and Helen had been here 10 years ago and told us you were allowed to swim here then, but due to the crocs invasion any swimming now would incur an on the spot fine of $150. Trevor posed on the rocks under the waterfall! All good things come to an end and we made tracks back to the campsite to pick up the trailers. Just about to set off again, Malcolm noticed our 'water in fuel' sensor light was on. I forgot to mention getting to Twin Falls had entailed our deepest creek crossing yet – a good 600ml. So the Isuzu manual came our and we all poured (pawed :) over it and instructed Malcolm is various techniques (after the first operation) had failed to turn the light off. Several more in depth operations including Malcolm and Richard spooning on the ground under Max but the light wanted to stay on. Malcolm had drained some fuel and convinced himself there was no water in it, so we pushed on and 15 minutes later the light obligingly went out. I guess the next river crossing will have us keenly watching if it comes on again. We set up camp at Maguk, again no mossies and I caught a good wave (my term for a good night's sleep).

Sunday 31st July - Kakadu 11,920 Km

Saturday 30^th July – 11624 Km

Yea, off this morning to Kakadu. A few stops along the way – jumping crocadile cruises etc., but nothing took our fancy, so after lunch we pressed on. Not a very interesting drive. We pulled into Merl campground and dropped off the trailers to reserve a spot (learning) and then drove around the corner to Ubirr -to see the rock paintings and view the sunset from an outcrop. Well, that was once of those experiences you can put on a “Bucket List”. We were very impressed. Sitting up on the top of this rock, overlooking a huge flood plain. A Parks Ranger briefly describing the land, people, culture, art – made it a memorable experience. Learnned (I am having a problem with these nnnnasty 'N's – they seem to have a stutter and I keep having to return and delete them, no mmore , hahm, hah hah, now my mmmmms have them, all without anny 'medicine either) Now, where was I. Oh yes, we learned so much about indigenous culture – some 'incidents' in Fremantle make sense nnow. We were all amazed no one ever explains this. We all raced off the rock enmass and the mossies descended. They had hit the camp and cooking dinner was a challenge with the mossies as thick as a blanket. We forgot to close the kitchenn door when we went to bed, so I was entertaind by my nearest and dearest leaping aroud the camper flicking towels at the walls of the camper trying to kill the little blighters. I half expected to wake up covered in lumps and itchy bumps, but we were ok.