Lake Gairdner to Pt Augusta

Day 19 - Lake Gairdner to Pt Augusta

Tuesday, 12 November 2013

Heading towards a big smoke :( we were quite happy to find the tracks were still interesting even though this is all station country. First item of interest the old ruins of Coondanna Station and a little further down the road an old wooden cart. At the entry to Mt Ive station a large submarine half buried!! Why? HH commented "should have got a Garmin".

As we passed Nonning station we saw they were busy rounding up the sheep. Activity!

We see all sorts of RFDS donation boxes, but Siam station has to be the most unique - an old telephone box. Still beautiful country. The Baxter Ranges closing in. Beautiful and interesting. No need to pick up the distraction of a Sudoko or two.

Hit the Tarmac at Iron Knob. Quick look around, found another relic for Rob Pampling.

Into Port Augusta to see Glen at Isuzu. We have had another couple of warning lights come on.

Happy to find they can have a look at our Max in the morning so off we trot to get some fresh groceries. First time in a couple of weeks! Woo hoo a high light for me, fresh apples :)

Checked into the shoreline caravan Park - showers, washing. Proper clean :)

	Sunset silhouettes [Map]		Coonana Ruins [Map]
	Fossils [Map]		Mt Ive Station, entry statement "should have got a [Map]
	Siam Station RFDS donation box - free calls to Ban [Map]		Bakers Van at Iron Knob [Map]

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Kingoonia to Lake Gairdner

Day 18 - Kingoonia to Lake Gairdner

Monday, 11 November 2013

Waved goodbye to Kingoonia (and Donald). Lenny was driving in with his sister and two dogs in the back of the ute - ha ha, only dogs in the back - he stopped for a quick natter. Lovely.

Quite poignant driving through "Country" whilst listening to The last Post on the radio. This Gawler Ranges region is stunning. Stirring up strong emotions in me. Flat plains, surrounded by hills, very green, lots of washouts and dry creeks. This must have been an important area for the indigenous before 'we' started European farming/grazing.

Quite a lot of stations in this area. Working and abandoned. Hiltaba looks like it is one that has been taken over by a conservation group. Gives an insight of what this place might have looked like before pastoralists. Very lush.

Quite a lot of birds, finches and budgies. Enjoyed listening to some unusual 'songs' as we sat in a shady spot for lunch.

Looked for and found a camping spot on the banks of lake Gairdner. Thought we had gone off on a wild emu track trying to take a short cut there. A few old gates to deal with, one which beat me and HH had to get out. It was a first, he opened the gate and I drove through. Skirting around some difficult to see washouts, we found the main track and saw our first glimpse of the dry lake.

Only a couple of Kms in there was a designated camp area, but we followed the track to the end for a better view. HH saw a track to higher ground so whilst I played with the camera on 'Dave' - the new phone - he ran off again. Twenty minutes later he was back and told me to put my walking boots on, grab my walking stick, some water and follow. I didn't argue and was rewarded with such an amazing view.

Lake Gairdner is huge! and the vast expanse of gleaming salt reminded us of the frozen lakes in Canada. The island in the middle gave it a moonscape feel. A WOW moment.

HH was regretting not buying himself a decent camera, but I think he does amazingly with our little point and press - maybe a Christmas treat.

	Heading South [Map]		Hmmm, which way? [Map]
	I remember her :) [Map]		Gawler Ranges [Map]
	Lake Gairdner looking North [Map]		South end of Lake Gairdner [Map]

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Googs to Kingoonia

Day 17 - Googs to Kingoonia

Sunday, 10 November 2013

Not too happy to learn the track led off OVER the dry lake. Eek, want to go first Pat O'Dowd? No problems though. Although a few of the dunes proved a bit of a challenge for the 100 series and TVAn. But nothing that a shovel and the Max tracks and a couple of pairs of willing labourers couldn't sort out. The tracks up the dune were very badly scalloped out, so quite hard to get up enough speed without the trailer bouncing all over the place. Although Ian and Robyn are seasoned campers (and cyclists and kayakers) this was a 4x4 training trip for them.

We were quite happy to muck in and besides it was a beautiful day and no flies. Flowers, birds (a beautiful Mistoetoe bird heard and spotted, and later identified in my ebook) and a few lizards

Turning right at the top of Googs, and following THE Dog Fence (that I read about last year, book from op shop:) we set off for Tarcoola. Remains of a gold town, with battery, railway station. A red painted (tin) pub with no beer, school, church and hospital. Still curtains up so it can't have been abandoned that long ago. Along with earlier stone cottage ruins,mpeople have lived here for a while, from the gold rush days, and the railway days.

Had lunch sitting on the steps of an old stone house then said our goodbyes. M gave HH a thoughtful 'thank you for recovery help' of some TINs of beer, James Boag and TEDs, what a treat.

Only 75 km to Kingoonia. One of the pubs in that Austrqlian Bush Pubs book, that has led us astray a few times :). Had been closed for a while, but Michael found it reopened earlier in the year. And we found it open with cold beer. Served up by the delightful Tracy (and partner Neil). Owner John had a few days off, but he was back now and enjoying a coldie on the veranda happy to let Tracy continue doing a good job. They were from Dongqra and travelling like us. After a cold beer, we set up camp over the road, a bit closer to the rail line (!) and after a bit of a clean up walked back to the pub (with the old truck called Donald parked out front).

Tracy had said she was cooking pizza and we were up for that. Met a few of the locals as well. A young worker from the nearby station. They were getting ready for the shearers, so interesting to learn first hand about the seasons of life on the stations. The local Dogger (dog fence repairer) was also imbibing a few - think he had been imbibing a long time, heh heh. Again more real life stories. Help, how can I ever contemplate life in suburbia again? Lenny, a local teetotal aboriginal popped in. He is a dab hand on the guitar and a good singer and regularly entertains the patrons at Kingoonia.

Walked back to bed under the light of the moon and stars. Heaven on earth!

	Gold grevillea [Map]		Ian and M train spotting [Map]
	Our naughty boys [Map]		Fossil Home [Map]
	Dropped from a great height, it went splat with su [Map]		Painted Dragon? [Map]

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Googs Day2

Day 16 - Googs Day2

Saturday, 9 November 2013

A bit overcast but dry. Back on to the main track. Love this place. No reply to our radio calls, but can see recent tracks, will probably cross paths or meet up later today. Still a lot of flowers, but mostly too fat and juicy to collect for Melody.

Found the other Goog travellers just decamping. Wish I could have filmed the face of my HH as he introduced himself to one of the other travellers. Picture this two strangers facing each other. HH sticks out his hand and says "Malcolm". The other man (looking surprised, how does he know my name) shakes HHs hand and also says "Malcolm". This is repeated a couple of times and their faces broaden into wide grins as they realise they both share this name. His wife Anne travelling with a TVAn, and second couple Ian and Robyn with a cub camper.

Soon found ourselves happily tagging along in the company of south Australians who love the outback. Lunchtime found us sharing stories. Lots in common. HH was wearing his Carlsberg shirt. Malcolm asked his connection to the beer and HH confessed he had the shirt because it was 50c from the Karratha op shop. Cheers went up, Anne is as enthusiastic op shopper as me. Turns out Malcolm works at the west End Brewery. Learnt they now own swan brewery and quite a few others. Lots of fun discussions. Why not a better choice of beers in cans!!! Apparently there is, just not available for everyone.

On to Mt Finke. Looked huge. HH shot off to climb it. He didn't even say goodbye, just took a swig of water, shut the door and was gone. Afterwards said he had to get going before I asked him not too climb it. Crafty Buggar ha ha. Getting back down was a bit of a challenge, what an admission,

Set up camp alongside the dried lakes nearby (lake Finke?). A lovely social evening. Have found a soulmate in Anne and the two M's shared all things 4x4, cars, camping etc. including a tour of the TVAn. Anne's M is as 'handy' as my M :)

	This way! Marking the corner. [Map]		Mt Fink looms, the ridge in the middle is where th [Map]
	Memorial on top of Mt Finke [Map]		Beautiful Goog scenery [Map]
	Finke Lake [Map]		Dragon of the Desert [Map]
	The Tvan, second attempt at a dune [Map]

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Googs, day 1

Day 15 - Googs, day 1

Friday, 8 November 2013

Leaving cactus on to Penong to fuel up. HH also took the opportunity of a flat surface to rotate the tyres (after all the rough work they had done over the trans access road).

A bit more Tarmac before turning off again up to Googs Track.

All stations up to the track, the last one lone Pine where "Goog" had lives before he opened up his track in the 70s. Opened up the gate, read all info signs, channel 18 for radio, a quick lunch and we were off. Strangely looking forward to this, I am usually apprehensive when my HH is leading me off the beaten track :)

Sign says over 300 dunes, less than half of the canning Stock Route, but it is only 150km compared to 2000km. This is beautiful, so green, mulga trees everywhere, literally forested.

Did hear someone else on the radio, but quite crackly, but don't think they can give out our safety 'announcement' (this is a one lane track).

Turned of at the Googs Lake and memorial. How sad son first and then Goog himself died in accidents. The lake area has recently been 'restored' - looking good. Bollards around to stop people driving all over the place. Lots of newly plants trees. Great camp spot. The lake it's is worthy of some Anthony Gormly statues :)

Wish we had our geologist friend Chris here to 'educate' us on the geology of this fabulous place. Walking out on to the lake at the south end, although dry it was still damp, small salty crust here and there. Could see it was drier and saltier further out, but it did look water on the far horizon. Quite a lot of black rocks laying around in one corner. Could see people had been playing and rearranging them into 'fortresses' and initials. Walking on we came to similar shape rocks but these were white. I was fascinated, other than these two areas it was smooth sand. Was even more amazed when we started to 'play'. These rocks are flat bottomed, just sitting on the surface of the sane, nothing buried! Chris tell me about this please.

Sun setting, time for my favourite part of the day, dinner, and of course a nice cold 'mug' of wine.

	Monster or the Outback [Map]		Sunset over looking Black Rocks [Map]
	Stone in HH's Shoe [Map]		White Rocks [Map]
	Colour hiding under a Rock [Map]		Black Rock [Map]

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Rained in at Cactus

Day 14 - Rained in at Cactus

Thursday, 7 November 2013

Rain, rain, rain, rain, beautiful rain. Sheltered indoors, HH found lots of munches. I made a mad neck tube/ ear band with flap.

	Cactus [Map]		Cactus [Map]
	Warm and dry inside [Map]		Our only view today [Map]

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Cactus Beach

Day 13 - Cactus Beach

Wednesday, 6 November 2013

The time zone change has got me in a dither. Don't know when to eat :)

Hot forecast, seeking shade around the camper, refuge from the flies. Lovely little a frame with some sinks, very much a surfy place, lovely feeling. Washing done and on the lines, headed down the beach. Much cooler. A bit late to see any surfing, never mind. Guess that was why I had to share the lines with wet suits.

Love this limestone shoreline. Warned about Bertie the brown snake hanging around the a Frame hut when I went to collect dry clothes.

Wind changed after lunch and headed down to walk the other end of the beach. Clouded over and cooling down, no complaints from me, but need more than my 'kini' now. Quick haircut then shower in the wonderful circular stone shower recess. The stones are only shoulder height, so it is a shower with a view, wonderful.

	Cactus surf [Map]		Cactus Flowers [Map]
	Cactus Dunes [Map]		Cactus Rocks [Map]

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Cook to Cactus

Day 12 - Cook to Cactus

Tuesday, 5 November 2013

For the first time in days were were driving south. Heading down to the Nullabor RD. A few caves to find. Salt bush country. At first only a few blow holes but eventually found what we think is Knowles cave. Quite a large depression in the limestone leading down to the cave, very cool, but not going to venture in, looks like a scramble down, I will leave whatever might be sheltering from the heat in peace. Lots of shell fossils.

Very hot today, so a quick lunch and on to the black top. First bit of Tarmac we have seen since Kalgoorlie! not bad. HH quickly became bored having no rock, ruts and holes to avoid. I did appreciate not being thrown and bounced around, it can be tiring. The driving might be boring but we were soon in the trees, guess we are out of the Nullabor.

The thought of a cold beer at the Penong Pub was calling. Totally forgetting what day it was, were shocked to find the overflowing with high heeled, fascinators clad ladies. Don't think there will be much chance of an anniversary dinner so we headed off to cactus beach to sit out the hot weather. Don't fancy Googs Track tomorrow with a forecast of 40c.

Cactus is lovely. Toilets and bore water for a shower, luxury. Aaah! Back to the beach again, love it. Just hope we can muddle through the heat and wind.

Lovely dinner, thanks kate for the salad greens! even watched the latest episode of Black List. A perfect evening for us.

	Knowles Cave [Map]		Pt LeHunte [Map]
	Anniversary Dinner [Map]		Cook Hospital [Map]
	Longest serving worker at Cook [Map]

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Hobo Life

Day 10 - Forrest

Sunday, 3 November 2013

Went up to the house for a coffee and to say thank you and goodbye, but we succumbed to yet another feast, bacon and eggs.

Sad to say goodbye to these generous people, but we did.

A rough track to Forrest and we were very glad to arrive. Very little to relieve the bumps. Quite a lot of trains tooted at us, a few bird house apartments.

Forrest another surprise for me. Kate and Greg Barrington, the current managers were very welcoming and after lots of conversation, and arvos that our club would have been proud of, we set up camp with an invite to come back later for dinner.

This is an airport, quite busy. Accommodation in old cottages is offered, with full board if required. Out the back not too far from the runway is a quaint museum, and bathroom and kitchen facilities. There was an old meteorological platform on top of the buildings which offered superb 360* views. I was surprised to learn how busy kate is kept with the cottages and meals with lots of small planes and helicopters calling in. Greg is also busy with maintenance and the aviation/refuelling/runway check side of things. It was fun to see their weekly supply of groceries (and medicine) arrive.

Found we had lots in common from living in the Middle East, and up in the Hills of Perth.

Yet another wonderful social evening.

	Photo 1 [Map]		The longest stretch of straight line [Map]
	Apartments on the Nullabor [Map]		Old station [Map]
	Cool Entry statement [Map]		Birds eye view [Map]
	To runway, from meteorological platform [Map]		To accommodation from platform [Map]

Day 11 - Forrest to Cook

Monday, 4 November 2013

Excitement this morning as the Indian Pacific was stopping to drop off Kate and Greg's weekly supplies. After safely packing in my fridge and wonderful bag of fresh green salad leaves from Kate's garden we all drove over to the rail line to await the groceries. Waved to lots of passengers on the train.

After HH gave a helping hand to transfer boxes of goodies from train to ute, a few more photos, hugs and farewells and thanks, yet again we feel blessed to have met another interesting couple and hope our paths cross again.

Only 23km eastward, we stopped at a blowhole that we were told about. Covered under a 3 sided shelter made of sleepers, it looked like a long drop. The cool rush of wind gushing up was incredible. Trying to show on a photo the strength of wind rising I stood over the hole, but not wearing a Marilyn Monroe skirt it only looked as if I was aiming over a long drop. HH's shirt did the trick. If only it was lunch time we could have picnicked there with our lunch, but it wasn't even morno's time and we had a long day ahead - huh little did we know how long.

Quite a few trains passed. We tried to keep up with one, but the track was too rough to get faster than 70. It was a very uncomfortable drive, but HH kept up the pace without complaint, and ignoring my occasional groan.

Six and a half hours and 215km later we rolled into Cook! Again a lot of buildings, an old hospital "come to Cook if you are crook", an old school etc. even two old jail cells. Found caretaker Colin who filled us in on the history. This is where the train crew change over from WA to SA staff. There is a full camp here for them.

We camped over at the old school, plenty of rain water and toilets over by the station, we rested up in luxury and comfort thinking back on our amazing experiences along the trans Australian rail access track". Colin did politely tell us no one is allowed to drive the track, but he wasn't fazed. Blame it on a wonderful Dutch couple me met earlier this year camping on Ningaloo station. We saw a photo of them in the camp kitchen at Forrest, along with their dog and caravan. Good advertising for an off road caravan Anneke and Hans!!

	High rise on the Nullabor [Map]		Crossing the Border [Map]
	Weekly supplies [Map]		Thrown off !! [Map]
	Cool blow hole [Map]		Oops, M fell out! [Map]

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