Gorges into Alice

Setting off that morning, we were all delighted with the blue skies. Driving through Tylers Pass was very pretty, some low lying mist in places around the Macdonnell Ranges made for some unusuual photos. This day we visited Redbank Gorge, Glen Helen, Ormiston, Ochre Pit and Ellery Pit Big Hole. These are all gorges in the Macdonnell ranges. Each one quite unique in its own way. A lot of stinky dead fish in the water holes, which was a natural seasonal occurance due to elevated water temperatures. We looked down on a dingo routing around in the shallows at Ormiston. , whilst eagles soared overhead. A perfect day, but feltgorged out at the end. Headed on into Alice, Malcolm continually expecting the fuel red light to pop on at any time, as we had been on empty for the last 100 km. It did come on for the first time ever 20 km outside Alice, so we cruised in and took advantage of the first petrol station we came on and quite happy to pay $1.67 a litre. After topping up there was probably 12 litres left in the tank which is about another 100 km. Now we have a bench mark. We caught up with Richard and Helen, who had deserted us after Curtain Springs. They have been in this neck of the woods before and had gone looking for some respite from the rain. They had camped at the Big 4 and reserved the sites next to them for us. After much longed for showers we drove into the RSL club for a very nice buffet dinner, (to gorge out yet again).

Boggy Hole - 8820 Km

Awoke to Michael's cries of “I've had a brain wave”. Apparently he had been awake half the night working out how to rig himself up a hot shower. He set about it with great enthusiasm. We treated ourselves to a cooked breakfast – that went down a treat. Decamped and proceeded onto Hermannsberg with more gravel, sand and river crossings. The biggest one of which was a good 70 metres wide, necessitating a volunteer to check the depth. Malcolm knowing the croc infested river crossing that would have to be checked in the Cape volunteered to do this easy one. He set out with shorts rolled up and a big walking stick, looking like Gandalf (was that because of the white beard). Despite it being toe numbingly freezing the crossing was safe, and all the boys throughly enjoyed driving through seeing who could make the largest bow wave.

At Hermannsberg, everyone decided they didn't want to pay $2.20 for fuel so we headed for Palm Valley. A very rocky slow treck to the end of the valley, but worth it. So called because of it's unique cycad palms. Another quick walk through, up and along the top of the gorge. Nice to get some exercise. Time for lunch before setting off for Grosse Bluff. This is a huge meteorite crater, We were looking for the crater but it was only after climbing a lookout we realised we had been in the crater – it was spectacular. No time to waste, headed towards West Macdonnell Ranges looking for a suitable camp for the night. Eventually managing to drive through some scrub some few hundred metres out of sight of the road. We opened up the camper to discover we were parked over an ant highway, as that would have meant me standing on it to cook, we had to moved. Fortunately with the luxury of our remote control (the envy of Michael) it wasn't long before we had relocated to a less 'trafficked' spot. A full moon that night, so it was cold, but dry and we saw stars for the first time.

Finke National Park - 8677 Km

Headed off to Finke National Park advised by ARB in Mandurah, through Running Waters and Boggy Hole. Drove back up to the Ernest Giles and turned East. Too eager to get off the road and adventuring, turned north too quickly, ignoring the No Entry, Permit Required, $5000 fine, notice. It wasn't until we almost stumbled upon the Aboriginal community it dawned on us we had actually taken the wrong track in our eagerness for some 4x4 driving. We beat a hasty retreat and found the correct track some 20km further along the Ernest Giles. This track took us into the Ilpurla community, searching for the track to the Ilpurla Springs. This was the site of an 1880s police station. We did a lap around the community's corral, before finding the track, much to the disgust and complete dismissal of its inhabitants, except for a dozen dogs who saw us off. Found the right track and had lunch before walking to the spring – which was dry. Quite a few ruins. It must have been a tough life in the 1880's.

The afternoon saw us heading into the national park through numerous gates and boggy mud holes which redecorated the vehicles. We pushed onto Running Waters for the first creek crossing. All the cars passed their first swimming test , but some drivers failed their driving test by forgetting to undo their seat belts (but it was only 2 metres wide). The driving was very enjoyable through a variety of terrains, including riverbed gravel, soft sand and mud. Quite a few photo stops. Continued to boggy hole were we stopped for the night. Nice to pull up in daylight and it had also started to clear during the day, with patched of blue sky. Was very amused to see the first thing Rachel did was put up a washing line to dry out some of the wet clothes. We had collected some wood before the park so the boys proceeded to get the fire lit, and we got into doing what we enjoy most – cooking and socialising around the fire. Tried to get some bedding aired out as well.

Kings Canyon - 8139 Km

Woke up hoping to find a bit of sunshine, no such luck. Raced on to Kings Canyon. Despite drizzle occasionally, it was worth it. A lovely climb up the canyon, and walk along the top, dipping down again into another gorge, up the other side. I don't think I can get enough of these gorges. We kept commenting it wasn't as good as Karajini, but it was in a different way. The cloud cover did help, it could have been quite hot otherwise. Checked out the campsite at Kings Canyon, thinking a hot shower might be nice at this stage, but at $19 a site, decided to track back down the road (towards Earnest Giles) and look for a 'free camp'. Pulled off at Salt Creek Rest Area to find a few other campers already there. Oh well, can't always have it to ourselves I suppose. Rain still intermittent. Discovered that when the kitchen back door is up the rain drips through the awning cover, down into the kitchen, bringing with it lots of red dust! Still don't want to go home though. Had a more social dinner under the overhang of Michael's roof topper. I have gained a helper. Rachel and Trevor's daughter, Jamie, loves cooking and is a champion carrot peeler, oh joy Also a very willing 'gofor'. I'm going to make the most of this :)

Gt Central to Yulara

Another early wet start, but still not discouraged. Refuelled at Giles whereupon Malcolm forgave the Warburton Mob for shutting the door in his face. At 30 cents a litre cheaper and with a tank the size of ours that was a considerable saving. Asked when the weather might be clearing, Giles being a meteorological centre, and was told not for a cou ple of days. However, that would mean that we would see Urulu at its most spectacular. By Docker River the road had become a quagmire, slippery, slidy mud bath. Speed reduced to 60 at times, and Max changed colour. Malcolm commented if the rain continued the road would likely be closed. We warned some on coming vehicles of the conditions ahead of them.

As the Olgas, Kata Tjuta, were only 5km off the road, we decided to check them out before heading on to Yulara and trying to find the team. We pulled up in the car pack only to find the teams cars were there. Yea, you should have seen Malcolm's face, he was proud as punch at his driving stamina and catching up so quickly. But it was not as good as the surprise we gave the team when they arrived back at their cars after their walk. Hugs all around, even though we were all wet and cold, and completely 'over' the rainy conditions. We drove on to The Rock and it truly was spectacular. I had no idea there would be waterfalls. Were told it was the best rain they had had for 50 years. It helped us cope with the misery of being wet. After lots of photos and oohs and aahhs, we went into Yulara to look for a camp spot. Queues and queues, so we just fuelled up and headed on to Curtain Springs. On the way there, spotted someone by his Wicked camper stopped at the side of the road. We did the right thing to see if he needed help. Yep, out of fuel, so Michael gave him a lift to Curtin Springs to fill up his jerry and took him back, fortunately only a round trip of 16 km. By the time we stopped at the campsite, it was dark, still raining heavily, muddy and I think I wasn't the only one wondering if I would rather not be there. Even more water in the camper, and it was my half of the doona that was wet. I so wanted to hand the camper back by this time, but that wasn't possible. Nasty damp, icky camper – ugh!

Great Central Road

Got up early, and packed away a wet camper, not very nice, but still eager to catch up with the others. On on through to Menzies, road house closed, so on to Laverton. Fuelled up and made a few calls, trying to sort out the 'legal' issues with Dad's estate. (Just what you need when heading outback with little phone, internet coverage). Started out on the Great Central Road, raining, and very grey, but determined to lessen the distance to the group. Refuelled at Tjukayirla ($2.20) and continued. Road was quite good for most of the way. Saw a few camels and dingos and lots of dead cars, we started counting them. Stopped again at Warburton for fuel on the dot of 5 pm, just as they were locking up shop. They refused to open again and sell us some fuel. You'd think at $2.50 a litre they'd be keen to open up again for another 10 minutes, but in the end they did us a favour. Drove on further stopping at a campsite recommended by Glen called Yarla Kutjarra, but as it was already dark we couldn't appreciate the scenery. Heated our our first meal since getting on the road, yummy. There were a few other campers and Malcolm had a chat to a family in a very nice caravan (with heater) and obviously lots of water as he said they had used 140 litres in 2 days – but there were 2 girls in the family. The thought of a heater sounded a bit over the top to me, but we were quite cold and by this stage the camper was very wet. It had leaked quite a bit during the day as we were driving through rain. Very discouraging, but I think I had sussed out how it was getting not only into the bed area (doona soaked by now) but also into the cupboards.

The Trip

Finally ready to leave, after a short delay, on Sunday July 10. Hit the road at 1:00, well loaded with fuel, water, food and plenty of 'medicine' (read wine and beer). The rain started soon after leaving Mandurah, but we didn't care. Malcolm was determined to catch the rest of the team ASAP, that meant stopping only for fuel and when I couln't 'hold on' any longer. I had baked some bread the day before, so that and a bit of fruit was our only food for the day. Uneventful drive, not much traffic and passed through Kalgoorlie around 9 pm. Decided to push further north for a bit and look for a camp spot at side of road., We pulled up at 10 pm (a good 9 hr drive) and opened the camper for the first time. A bit excited, apprehensive and concerned as it was still raining. Found a bit of water inside the camper, but nothing we could do so went straight to bed.