Friday, 21 September 2012

Winton, on the Dino Trail!



Day 12 - Winton, on the Dino Trail!



Monday, 17 September 2012

Time to check out this little town, Winton. Waltzing Matilda centre -I am a bit over 'memorabilia' centers, however, the history of Qantas starting here was interesting. Felt the tickets were very over priced, but it did give you a couple of disconts in town, firstly a free beer with a meal at The North Gregory Hotel. A delightful place full of art deco furniture and light fittings, and is meant to be the first place Banjo played Waltzing Matilda! Then a tour of a craft centre/ memorabilia/ Dino place - knitted toilet roll covers, plastic Dino's and fossils:). Then the delightful open air cinema. Gave a real feel for life in the town during the 40s and 50s. The front portion of floor was also used as a roller skating rink! The back film room was lined with all the old posters, Greta Garbo, John Wayne, Rock Hudson, Marilyn Monroe. Could just hear my mum and dad, saw that one, loved that one, etc.

After stocking up at the Spar 'supermarket' we headed off to Orlando's fruit and vege place to get 5% discount. Huh, I thought small country towns were friendly. Nearly got my head bitten off by Mrs Orlando, because i hadnt shown my 5% discount ticket before i started shopping! I was gob smacked - she was so aggressive about it, PAV and I just stood there like stunned mullets, there was no way we were getting 5% off. After paying (full price :) I decided to point that she had charged me full price for a discounted bag of green beans, so I asked for a copy of the receipt. Well, when I pointed out her mistake, she went in for another go at us. He, he, what a laugh. Talking about it later, we decided that the reason she needed to see our discount ticket before she ran things through the till could be because she had a different price list (+5%). What a con, but we had a right old laugh.

Headed out to the Trail of the Dinosaur museum. This is about 20km out of town and on top of a Jump Up - Mesa. A rammed earth, aesthetically pleasing design nestled on the edge of the cliff. It was a thoroughly well done place. A great scramble/walk/climb down and along the base of the cliff. Partly a climb because PAV led me astray:). But it was a place that inspired visions of Dino's roaming the plains below, or even hiding behind giant boulders (that I had to clamber over). The laboratory tour at the other end was extremely well done, and it was interesting to meet 'Matilda', 'Dicksie' and a few other ancient relics. The paleo's working there were very knowledgable and passionate about their work. You could also work as a volunteer, but it would cost you a donation of $2000, however, that did include food and board! They had a couple of volunteers sitting at the work benches painstakingly slowly, with what looked like a dentist drill, separating stone from bone! A real paleo had a box of 'pieces' of bone, trying to fit them together, a bit like putting a jigsaw together, however, you don't know how many pieces are missing, or what the final thing should look like!

Eventually the show was over, oh yes we then went back to the main centre to be shown a tour of the cleaned up, pieced together, real actual bones (in other museums what you see is usually replicas). The young man explaining all this to us was so excited about the real ness of them, spoke almost reverently about Matilda, Elliot, Wade, Banjo, McKenzie! There is passion for you.

Driving back down the Mesa (jump down) there were dark clouds in the distance, quite dramatic. Hope we don't get rained on tonight! Would be the first rain since Perth.





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Monday, 17 September 2012

Diamantina to Winton



Day 11 - Diamantina to Winton



Sunday, 16 September 2012

Explored the rest of Diamantina NP. We must have come in the back door. Wt we saw Today made yesterday make sense. We first discovered the Hunter Gorge campsite was the place to be,we had been warned that it was very exposed, so chose the other spot :( There must have been 150 pelicans that called the river home. I think PAV was thinking if we had camped there, he could have been lucky with the fishing rod - they have to be there if that many pelicans are happy there. We walked along the riverside, PAV creeping up on the pelicans, then throwing a stone in the water with the camera ready as hey all took off, quite an amazing site (and sound). On to the lookout and Janet's leap. Quite spectacular, would be even more so during a big wet! Then the information centre held all the clues to the settlement (and dis-settlement of the indigenous people). Oh, the history, and damage white settlement has caused this land.

We continued north to Winton. Station country. Flat, grass plains, station cattle grids, etc

Mayne Hotel ruins was quite interesting, with it's below ground cool room and the fact it had been operational until 1951!

Eventually got into Winton late afternoon, and after a quick beer in the old hotel ($10 for 2 XXXX bitters). Why can't we get this beer outside QLD. We have only ever found XXXX G old. The bitter is not bad.

Found a free camp spot a few Km south of town beside a water hole. All the flies and midgies were here as well.





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Bedourie to Diamantina NP



Day 10 - Bedourie to Diamantina NP



Saturday, 15 September 2012

Fortunately it's hadnt rained during the night so we weren't washed away, but the flies were interested in our scrambled eggs. It felt like a long road out to Diamantina NP, this is Channel Country, a land of extremes, during the wet the 'channels' fill and flood over the flat land, it is rich soil so produces several varieties of Mitchel grasses, very good cattle fodder. But then in the dry, it becomes very desert like, the grasses rapidly losing the protein content. There is a lot of artesian water, so for stations today, putting bores down is very important. Expected Diamantina to be greener, but at first it seemed quite dry. We did the 90km loop drive which not knowing much about the area, and after the lushness of the Simpson, I felt a bit disappointed. There had been a station here, operating until the 1920's - Janet Holmes a Court sold it back to the Government in the 80s. Quite a few relics of stock yards etc.

There was a choice of 2 campsites, so we chose the more sheltered place (by the write up). Nothing impressive, but it was level, and when you get into cap late, there is only time to set up, cook dinner, clean up and then it is dark anyway.





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Sunday, 16 September 2012

Birdsville to Bedourie



Day 9 - Birdsville to Bedourie



Friday, 14 September 2012

Took our time decamping, making use of the CP camp kitchen to fill the flask. Chatting to some one who had just finished the Madigan's Track - a convoy of 8 vehicles, I think that would have been a challenge.

Tried to stock up on some groceries at the roadhouse, but forgot half the things that I needed. I always have trouble in small country towns, there never seems to be anything I eat - fresh stuff! The little museum was good, then we headed or to the bakery for morno's catching up for final farewells with Inara and Lange. The bakery was more characterful than the hotel, and PAV certainly approved of the curried camel pie. Coffee wasn't bad either whilst I caught up on emails.

Back on the road north to Bedourie, had to visit seeing as I have a Bedourie Oven. Just north. Is a stand of Waddi Trees, one of only 3 places where they grow wild. One of the hardest woods, when it is dry apparently impossible to drill a hole in. Halfway to Bedourie is Carcoola homestead ruins, good place for lunch (I hadn't had a curried camel for morno's and was hungry) but it turned out the flies were hungry as well, and it was a race to eat my sandwich before they could. In the meantime we heard on the radio that the Birdsville Bakery Curried Camel Pie had won the Great Australian Pie Competition in Melbourne!

Bedourie felt like a ghost town, but for $50 deposit you got the key to the local artesian spa, Michael had told us it was worth it so off we went for a soak - it was lovely, but it didn't take long before I felt I was being cooked - were the cannibals hiding around the corner? So we had to check out the hotel pub for a cold beer. However, it was not paycheck week and was not a hive of activity either. We headed out of town and camped in a dry creek bed, quite hard, but lots of flies. Fortunately they went to bed before we had dinner.



Birdsville Bakery
[Map]

The original Birdville Hotel
[Map]

Birdsville 'Artesian' water supply
[Map]

Waddi Trees
[Map]

Cacoory Homestead Ruins
[Map]

Cacoory Views
[Map]

Cuttabuck Crossing
[Map]

This little Piggie!
[Map]

Bedourie Hotel
[Map]



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Day 4 - Big Red



Day 8 - Day 4 - Big Red



Thursday, 13 September 2012

The wind had come up during the night and flapped the camper around. Not fun putting it down as the fly was flapping around. Not made easier by the fact that the down button on the remote control was not working and it meant using the button in the kitchen, which means having the kitchen door open, which means you can't tuck the side in, so it is a pain in the bum closing the door, tucking in a bit more, opening the door again, to shut the lid further etc. but we got there. Hmm, so I should have remembered to bring the spare remote!

Came across a large salt pan. This would have been one of the places on Michael's DVD where there were horrendous muddy boggy places, treacherous for getting vehicles stuck. Oh was I glad it was dry. But it meant the end of the Hay River Track, and we now turned left (East) along the QAA Line into Birdsville, via Big Red! Now we were crossing the dunes perpendicular and was just about to comment it was rather monotonous after the Hay Track when we discovered the source of the foot prints we could see. Yup, 2 walkers! Why? Because you can! We stopped for a chat. They just enjoy walking in remote areas - had done Kokoda last year, and have lots more interesting places to conquer in the future. They did have a support vehicle which would drive 5km ahead and wait for them. They averaged 30km a day, starting at 5am. It broke the monotony of the trail for me :) The desert is still quite green in the valleys. I took to comparing the heights of the dunes - valley height being around 34m and the crest of the dunes between 48 and 60. Very easy going compared to the Hay Track, but still 'lumpy'. The tracks up the dunes we're in very bad condition, the west face really cut up and scalloped out' it felt a bit like the 'rock walk' you sometimes have to do coming out of a creek bed. You are thrown side to side in your seat. Wonder how the beer is doing, did I wedge them in tight enough?

Passed through Eyre Creek, completely dry! Eventually there she was - BIG RED. We could hear on the radio there was a few people already playing there. I had already told myself I was going to stay in the car this time! No wimping out for me.

Waited our turn, communicating with the people on the top for the all clear. And we were off, yee haaa! A bit like a bucking bronco ride. Came to a grinding halt about 1 meter short of the crest, much to the cheers and encouragement from the onlookers - think not quite a fast enough run. Anyhow I got out, seeing as I was just about there, so I could video the next run. No problems 2nd time round. We were very proud of Max and his new exhaust. Lange and Inara followed. They are not as driven as PAV to conquer these obstacles, but did it all the same, good on them. However, I did notice, once over the crest Lange spent the rest of the time on the far side taking photos of the lake and birds -that was of far more interest to him than the challenge of the dune! After PAV had thoroughly satisfied himself with a couple more conquering drives up and down the Big Red, we decided we had collected enough sand in our hair and clothes and drove down the other side beside the lake and aired up. I'm glad this wind hadn't been with us the whole trip, it certainly was not nice. The track was a detour around the lake and then on into Birdsville. Lange headed straight to a garage as the bushings on his shockies had gone and we checked in at the CP. wind not nice, quite bleak but we we having dinner at the iconic Birdsville Hotel, after a shower and hairwash - i think half the sand from Big Red went down the plug. Unfortunately an APT tour bus was in town, so the hotel was rather busy. Not my scene at all, but it was to be our last night before we went our separate ways from Lange and Inara - they had some insurance covering them for the car repairs that paid for their hotel accommodation. Again we had a lovely evening - even if the lamb shanks were rather overdone.



QAA Line
[Map]

Salt Pan on the QAA Line, Simpson
[Map]

QAA Line
[Map]

Simpson Desert Walkers!!
[Map]

Typical QAA line
[Map]

Big Red!
[Map]

Posing on the top of Big Red
[Map]

Where is the track?
[Map]

Hmm, shall we risk it?
[Map]



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Day 3 Hay River



Day 7 - Day 3 Hay River



Wednesday, 12 September 2012

Still very overgrown and lush (scratchy to some). Not long before we found 'Camp 16' - Madigan's blazed Tree. Madigan blazed his trail in 1939 with 9 men and 19 camels. There was a Visitors book to sign!! Quite a few people had had a plaque stamped up before they did their iconic trip to leave attached to a picket at the site! The blazing on the tree had nearly grown over, but there was a photo of it taken in 1974 that was in the visitors book.

Had to move on. The scenery was starting to become more desert like, lower scrub and we were, although still heading in a generally south direction, starting to cross the dunes, instead of running parallel to them. In fact the first dune took us by surprise as the approach to it wasn't visible. A sharp turn, steep incline and very soft sand, it needed a second run at it. Turned out to be a common approach to the dunes on this section, sharp right hand bend at the base, followed by a left hand turn on the crest. Fun. Found the camels further on. Surprised to see so many, at least 25, but I suspect there could have been a few more scattered around. We were admiring them, but we're reminded they were feral, and probably not doing the native flora/fauna any good. Was a bit more challenging today to find shade for lunch, but it wasn't too hot and it was fine to shelter in the lee of the vehicles.

We made it to Beachcombers camp for the night. This was an old exploratory well from 1988. A bit too much of a 'beach' no trees, so we moved around the corner to set up. We found our first casualties on opening the fridge. It smelt of beer when I opened the medicine chest, sure enough a XXXX gold had self opened, but fortunately only one. Also a couple of cracked eggs - I had forgotten to wedge them down, so was surprised only 2 broken. However, it meant the carton was rather soggy so storage was a problem -solved it by having a large omelette for dinner :) the pumpkin had taken a beating as well, so that was next on the list to be eaten! Another social evening in the delightful company of Inara and Lange.



Camp 16 -Madigan's Track
[Map]

Madigan's Tree
[Map]

Eagle Nest
[Map]

Camels on the Simpson
[Map]

Eagle
[Map]

Simson Sand
[Map]

The first Dune
[Map]

Simpson Flowers
[Map]



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Day 2 Hay River Track



Day 6 - Day 2 Hay River Track



Tuesday, 11 September 2012

We had discovered a mutual love of the outback with our new travelling fellows and we set off to an early start, taking turns to lead. Lots more of scratchy bumpy, windy track, but it was so interesting. Average speed 25/35 km, rarely getting out of 2nd gear, but we were engrossed in the flora. Inara and Lange are from Adelaide so are more familiar with the trees and flowers. We were to discover they were very knowledgable about lots of the outback and we hungrily lapped it up. They also have a love of the Pilbara like us so every stop we found so much to talk about.

We found a suitable campsite around 3:30 at Madigan's Camp 15. Yet again we had a delightful social evening- you couldn't have asked for moe interesting and amenable traveling companions.



Lake Caroline
[Map]

Hay River Tk
[Map]

Scratchy Hay Tk
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Hay Tk
[Map]

Typical Vegetation Hay Tk
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Hay Tk
[Map]

More Hay Tk
[Map]

This is the Simpson DESERT!
[Map]



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