Day 1 - Leaving Lake Argyle
Tuesday, 21 August 2012We finally finished 7 weeks work at Lake Argyle, phew, hard work, glad it is over, sooo good to get back on the road. After stocking up in Kununarra for the last time (every other person in Coles recognizing M from parking them up at Lake Argyle:) we headed up to Wyndham to see if the fish man had some Jew fish (it was yummy and only $22/kg). We're really surprised that he recognized us from 2 months ago and had a bit of a joke about the Silver Cobbler that they sell out at the lake (cat fish) and quite ordinary. We stopped for a bit of lunch at the cafe and recognized the young girl there as having served us at the Ironclad in Marble Bar 3 months ago.
After filling the freezer with Jew fish, we headed out to Diggers Rest. We were last there on June 21at, I remember the date as it was Michael's birthday! We had wanted to drive the Kuranjie Track, but it was closed because of mustering, bit of a contentious issue.
We arrived and set up camp in a small grassed paddock. Diggers is a small working station, also offering tourists a taste of life on the land, with horse treks, mustering and fishing tours. The King River nearby has barra and salties. Malcolm was green with envy when a fellow tourist told him the size of the barra he had caught that morning. There were a few Woofers, youngsters who work for board and keep. Ideal for European Travellers on their 1 year visa. Fabio had arrived the day before and he cooked up a delightful Carbonara, followed by mango and ice cream. A lovely treat for us.
Horses , emus and goats in the paddocks beside us, and dogs running around making sure no one stepped out of line. The chooks ignored them. So peaceful after 7 weeks in a caravan park!
The only down side -the roosters at 4am! Heh, heh.
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| First trip Orange second trip Blue
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| Brumbies on Lake Argyle Rd
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| Diggers Rest
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| Diggers Resting
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| Getting ready for the muster
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| The ones left behind!
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| Farm Life
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Day 2 - On to ELQ
Wednesday, 22 August 2012Eventually we had to leave, but not before someone wandered in to ask directions, yep he recognized M has having parked him at The lake! We set off down the Kuranjie track, now open, waving goodbye to Alida and the mustering gang. The gate wasn't locked, and in we went. Took less than 2 hours, and I wasn't that impressed, a bit boring really. Once out the other end we crossed the Pentecost just for the sake of it before doing a quick U'y and heading into ELQ. I have decided to rename Chauffeur (who became bower bird Harrison at the lake due to his collecting stuff during the rubbish collection round) and because of the number of people that have been recognizing him since we have left I will now refer to him as my PA (parking attendant). Hmm, what about Valet? On some occasions he did actually have to reverse their vans into the allocated area!
So, PAV (parking attendant, valet, yep I like that :) had asked if we could get a special staff deal at El Questro. It is quite expensive, $25 per person to camp by the river (no facilities) plus $20 per person for a wilderness pass to be able to drive on the property. A bit steep I feel, especially as it is run by an American company. We rolled up to reception (no parking attendants!) to be given a free camp for the night and a free wilderness pass. We were delighted and set off to explore. On the way in we had popped into Zebeedee Springs and got 15 minutes in the thermal pools before being asked to leave, from midday on it is only open to booked tour groups. Although we only got there at 11:45, I think we lucked out as everyone else was leaving, so we had it to ourselves. On the walk out we passed Bec, Fi and Paul, fellow workers at the Lake, we called them The Kids, and had really enjoyed their company. It was Paul's birthday and the girls had organized time off and a surprise treat at ELQ for him.
We spent the next few hours exploring. Apart from the lookout at Branko's it was a little disappointing, we have seen far more picturesque areas in the Kimberley's. However, our personal campsite down by the river was all good.
Day 3 - Bungles
Thursday, 23 August 2012Decamped and decided not to any of the other tracks this side of the Gibb, but headed over to Emma Gorge which is a bit further along the Gibb. Set off for the walk up to the waterfall. A truly lovely gorge. Lots of little rock pools to scramble over, through and around. Probably a 30/40 minute walk, we loved it and we're rewarded by having the waterfall/pool to ourselves for quite a while. PAV had a good float around, but being on the cool side I was content to just get my legs wet. We had bought breakfast along, but PAV had a whine as he had taken out of the fridge 2 of mine (no oats) instead of one of each. He had to console himself with the remaining Nice biscuits that Bec had brought along to our farewell gathering. Speaking of which, who should then come strolling along the track, but The Kids, looking like that cat that got the cream. They were thoroughly enjoying ELQ and having a much deserved rest. Hopefully our paths will cross again.
Next stop Bungles. Who should open the gate for us, none other but Craig who was the helicopter pilot at the Lake, but now working out of the CP at the Bungles! He did such a double take when PAV stuck his hand out to shake his hand. Very funny. We we expecting the the next 50km to be quite bad from everything we had heard, the saying not to believe everything you hear, held up. An hour ten later we were at the Visitor Centre and mentioned we didn't know what the fuss was all about. It was a very picturesque road, the corrugations not bad, it would be a great place for time trials because of all the dips and turns. PAv was in his element. We set up camp and walked up a small outcrop for sunset.
During the night we had a visit from a very noisy dingo. We only had the fly screen door fastened, no canvas, and must admit feeling a bit 'vulnable'. Fortunately after 10 minutes or so of barking and scratching around our camper, our watch dog, Max, convinced him we wouldn't have left any food lying around and he had best be on his way, or else the Bear might wake up and sort him out!
Day 4 - Bungles
Friday, 24 August 2012After our visiting dingo, we carefully checked around the camp for 'chewed bits' but the watch dog had done his job. We drove up to the Domes and Cathedral Gorge. I had seen it from the air a few weeks ago, but this was more 'tangible'. The termite mounds up on the top of the domes was very interesting. We walked up to the lookout and then into the Cathedral. PAV stepped up on a 'dais' and let loose. I really wish I could have heard a real Pavarotti in there, the acoustics were fantastic. I only wish I had recorded PAVs version of 'just one Cornetto, give it to me, I'll sit right here, and watch TV'.
The brochures they give always seem to allow too much time. We were done mid morning so decided to drive down to the far end . Echidna Chasm was best at midday, for the sun to filter down, and we timed it perfectly. A couple of times we thought we had got to the end only to find a small gap to continue on. Real fantasy stuff just loved it.
Time for lunch outside and then on to Mini Palms.
Phew it was hot, 1:30, traipsing a couple of Kms up River rocks and gravel in full sun was hard. However, it was worth every drop of sweat. Don't know how some people squeeze through the rocks, even I had to turn sideways, PAV scrambled up and over the outside. Places like this are magical and my imagination runs away with me. More, more. Climbing up the steps to the amphitheater we discovered we were the only idiots who had walked in (5km round trip) in the heat of the day, probably high 30's. PAv was in his element, having had a trial run in the Cathedral and there was no stopping him now - the echo was brilliant.
Day 5 - On to the Tanami
Saturday, 25 August 2012Another fun trip out of the Bungles and into Halls Creek. Refuel and top up on fruit and we are off, the adventure continues, off the Tarmac again.
First stop Wolfe Creek Crater. Again, we have been told numerous times this is the worst road ever. Fortunately, conditions change from season to season. Yes there were corrugations, a few places bad, but this car really does seem to travel the rutted stuff really well. It didn't stop me doing sudoku! Other than having to get out and open 3 gates. Had thought we might camp here, but it was only lunch time, too hot to walk around the rim or across it, and as we have the car booked in at Alice decided to push on to Stretch Lake near the Old Biluna Homestead. It was a 20km detour out on to the Canning Stock Route, at least we can say we have driven some of it, heh, heh!
It was a nice place, cleanest toilets ever, and the noisiest cockatoos!, that don't go to bed at dusk, Grrrrr.
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| Wolfe Creek Crater
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| PAV and the misses at Wolfe CC
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| Dinosaur at The Crater
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| Sunset at Stretch Lake
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| Grandfather Tree
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| Maxxie with one foot in/one foot out WA/NT
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Day 6 - Tanami Day 2
Sunday, 26 August 2012Nice early start and on the road by 7:30. I thought this was a desert, it is greener than any of the Kimberley's. What. Lovely surprise. Made good mileage, quite a fair bit of traffic coming up from Alice, include g 2 old Roadster type cars, one number plate 1937. We were gob smacked and managed to photo the. 2nd one. What a hot dusty trip that must be. A short while later we heard a loud chink under the car,then I thoughts could hear the bash plate rattling again - found a loose bolt at Wolfe Creek and PAV had lock tighted it last night. We stopped and backtracked several hundred meters. Couldn't see it so turned back again, when I discovered not only can PAV sing, he has beady eyes as well. Threads stripped off bolt, but bash plate held in place with a cable tie - should see us through to Alice.
Quick stop at Renehans Bore for a late lunch, then on to Mt Doreen for the night.
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| Traffic on the Tanami
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Day 7 - Mt Doreen to Alice
Monday, 27 August 2012Woke up real early, wind blowing, but I wasn't going out until light, those giant bungarras might still be on the prowl. Had to turn the vehicle around to put the camper down as the wind was blowing out the canvas. At least it wasn't too cold. Setting off realised I had forgotten to fill the flask, buggar! Fortunately Tilmouth Roadhouse was only a couple of hours down the track. Bit of a boring track nothing to do but count dead cars. We only saw 39 in over 1000km of desert track. That is nothing on the Great Central that topped 100!
Got into Alice, picked up a town map, shared a Subway for lunch and headed south to have a last bush camp before parking up in another CP tomorrow whilst Max gets his new exhaust fitted and a few other bits and pieces looked at. Might be in town for a week! Time to catch up on a few calls to friends.
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