Gravelly Beach, Low Head, Bridport

Day 27 - Gravelly Beach, Low Head, Bridport

Sunday, 23 February 2014

A noisy night, thank goodness we don't have to stay at these 'rest areas' often. I must say though, Tasmanians are the friendliest locals we have come across! very welcoming.

The next possible campsite looked promising, at the end if a cul de sac. Will remember if we come back to "lonny". Drove up to the mouth of the Tamar on the West, Greens Beach. On the beach we met a couple of gents partaking in their hobby, model aircraft. Oh how I wish my Dad had the time to participate in this sort of thing. We were entertained with their flying skills. The lookout gave us a view to the eastern end of Narawntapu, we had camped at western end.

Heading back to cross Batman Bridge over to George Town, picking up fresh apples from a road side stall. Topped the medicine chest up (yep BWS open on a Sunday in this little tiny town, wake up Perth).

On to the lighthouse at Low Head, not as pretty as the western bank of the Tamar at Greens Beach, which seems sandier. But the history is here. A sign here informs us that 10,000 years ago a 'warming climate' raised sea levels, separating Tasmania from the Mainland!! Ha ha, global warming 10,000 ago, must be a natural cycle me thinks :)

Driving eastwards, HH hoping for a bit of beach driving (as Michael had done it with no problems). Decided to attempt it from the Bridport end, but it was nearly high tide, guess who was nervous. We met another young couple also hoping to drive it to camp at the western end. Bit of a sandy track over the cape with a very soft steep rise before an even steeper, softer descent onto the beach. Second attempt HH had our M ax at the top, but the other couple in their Troopy, 4.2 non turbo diesel just couldn't quite make it. So without the backup of a second vehicle, HH didn't push me. If it had been low tide, I might have agreed. Although the exit off the beach could have been a bit of a challenge.

We retraced our steps back to the other side of the cape, and parked up a few metres above the high tide mark, surrounded by blackberries.

During the night we were amused to hear the gentle growls of a Devil checking us out. Little paw prints all around in the morning.

	Paper Beach [Map]		Greens Beach [Map]
	Beach aerodrome [Map]		Narawntapu [Map]
	Batman Bridge [Map]		Lighthouse at Low Head [Map]
	Low Head [Map]		Low Head [Map]
	Nr Bridport [Map]		Brambles [Map]

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Arthur River, Launceston

Day 25 - Arthur River, Launceston

Friday, 21 February 2014

Freezing!!!! Decided to head straight to Launceston! get off this high elevation and maybe things will warm up. Quite spectacular coming down the Western Tiers, very steep. And very quickly into farmland. A few town chores to do, fuel, groceries etc.

Checked out the Honey place, leatherwood is apparently on a par with manuka. Slightly less sweet, but still yucky (to me) but we bought some for medicinal purposes (in the hot toddy:). Keen to try ther sample of beer/honey shampoo.

Further up the street we checked out not a brewery, but a beer house that imported barrels from all over the world. My English porter was delicious, coffee undertones.

Camp 6 showed a place for an overnight stop out at Lilydale Falls. Quite a nice picnic park, but a bit too close to the road. Tasmania must be the motor home capital of Australia, never seen so many.

That evening we had contact from some club friends, Tony and Stella. Turns out they are also in Launceston and also going to check out the National Penny Farthing Championships in Evandale so we arranged to meet up.

	Beers from around the World [Map]		Cataract Gorge, Launceston [Map]
	Cataract Gorge [Map]		Beer Shampoo [Map]

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KB, Derwent Bridge, Arthur River

Day 24 - KB, Derwent Bridge, Arthur River

Thursday, 20 February 2014

A quick look at the visitor centre at lake st Clare, a walk or two worth doing here! but not today as weather not so good. On to The Wall, ha ha, not the Wall in Game of Thrones :)

This place is wonderful, such a talented sculpture. No photos allowed, but web site www.thewalltasmania.com has lots. Depicting the history of the area, 10 years in the making and another 10 to go. I just loved the individual pieces, especially the gloves. Just looked like someone had dropped a worn leather work glove on the bench, hard not to pick it up.

Turned north up the Marlborough Rd to the lakes and Western Tiers. As we drove high, so it got colder. These lakes obviously popular fishing spots for the locals. Lots of shacks, loved the old caravans attached to tin shed like porches/annexes!

Found a secluded spot, and after setting up realised how cold it was. What a wonderful reason to light a fire and cook. Out came the axe and I got the bread started. Turned into pizza, looked good, but should have been more resourceful with the topping. Next we christened the new blue billy. Will have to get it black some time:). Then we cooked up a nice beef casserole, but after the pizza discovered we weren't hungry - wonderful that is tomorrow's dinner sorted. A freezing night, just kept adding layers. First time I have slept in thermals. HH said it was 7* in the insulated freezer box, so it must have been colder in the open.

	Fishing shack! Tassie style [Map]		Preparing for the cold night [Map]
	Checking out my new rolling pin [Map]		Camp oven pizza [Map]
	Christening the Billy [Map]		The sculpture at work on The wall [Map]
	Unfinished close up [Map]		Baby thylacine wood sculpture [Map]

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Rosebery, Tullah, Queenstown and King William Lake

Day 23 - Rosebery, Tullah, Queenstown and King William Lake

Wednesday, 19 February 2014

Quick look out at Tullah. Highest rainfall in Tas, and sure enough whilst looking at Wee Georgie Wood, (historic trains) we could hear the thunder. Taking the back road through the mountains to Queenstown the heavens opened, slippery, winding and no visibility, interesting!

Arrived in Queenstown in one piece! phew. What a quaint, interesting town. Lots of history, mines, forestry etc. lots of rivalry, Broken Hill on a very small scale. Lots of businesses closed down, some trying to draw new customers. The old Empire Hotel offering a cafe/cinema night. The old Queenstown station drew HH like a magnet. The West Coast Wilderness Railway offers a half day heritage experience on a steam train. A definite must do for HH, but weather bad at the moment, so we will come back (no where is far on this little isle) if there is a break in the weather.

Driving out, up and over mountains, what a weird experience. The hills are all bear, oops bare, it looks like you are driving through slag heaps. HH said it reminded him of Andamooka in SA (opal mining). A lookout over the town explained. All the previously forested hillsides were logged during the mining 'rush' and the rain did the rest. Unfortunately another side effect was the sulphur given off in some of the mining process (fires) which was highly acidic. The hills look like something out of a Hollywood Scifi movie, The Day After ..... The acid rain has also damaged the local rivers!

We bought a brolly, looks like we are going to need it, second to last pie (locally made), picked up a package waiting for me at the post office and started driving to somewhere with better weather:) he he in Tassie eh?

Crossed off 3 more walks from my book. Nelson Falls, Donaghys Hill and Franklin River Nature Trail - 5.6 Km in all.

Camped at King William Lake, some ominous skies but no rain.

	All Hand made [Map]		Tullah 'moods' [Map]
	Lake Plimpsol [Map]		Queenstown [Map]
	Iron Blow [Map]		Nelson Walk [Map]
	Nelson Falls [Map]		Ominous over Lake King Billy [Map]
	Not ominous [Map]

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Trial harbour, Zeehan, Rosebery

Day 22 - Trial harbour, Zeehan, Rosebery

Tuesday, 18 February 2014

After a glorious sunset, nothing like a west coast for sunset we said goodbye to this little harbour and met the 4WD Action film crew. They were going to try the Climies Track, hard in our book and HH had promised me no Hard Tracks. There is a bridge out so they will have to find someway across it. We moved on, could feel envy eminating from my driver. He had to satisfy himself with a small track before we hit the Tarmac again. Passed an old fire lookout, unfortunately right next to some power lines.

Drove straight through Zeehan on to Rosebery. Montzuma falls just before town, it is in the Short Walks book that we have and are endeavouring to do all 60 of them. These are Tassie's tallest falls. The sign said a 9km walk (short?, not in my mind:) allow 3hrs. These time estimates are like a red rag to my HH, almost as if he has to prove to himself that he can do it in less. Glad it wasn't a hot day at least, and not raining. Quite a lot of squishy mud areas. We must have passed at least 50 or so people walking back. Not until we got there did I realise how lucky we were to have the place to ourselves. Not a large viewing area. The suspension bridge only allows to people on it at a time. Made myself walk across it. My pedometer said 13,476 steps by the time we got back (2:45)! Legs quite tired, but knee ok.

Not far into Rosebery and the very first shop was an OP. After buying myself some brand new (still in wrapper) wool socks for $2 and getting the what's what from the delightful assistants we went to get a site at the CP, need to wash some clothes (and bodies:). Walked up to The Top Pub for a beer and a huge ycurried scallop meal, loads of fresh vegetables, yum all for $15. Doing well this year on pigging out.

	Sunset Trial harbour [Map]		Ditto [Map]
	Ditto [Map]		Ditto [Map]
	Trying to climb old Fire Lookout [Map]		Montezuma Falls [Map]
	Suspension Bridge, Montzuma [Map]		Old tram trestle bridge [Map]
	Montezuma's [Map]

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Corinna, Granville Harbour, Trial Harbour

Day 21 - Corinna, Granville Harbour, Trial Harbour

Monday, 17 February 2014

No rain, dry canvas and slept in until nearly 9:00. We are becoming delightfully lazy. Eventually got down to the Fatman Ferry (I think Simon a better name) about 10:30 only to discover it wasn't running. Turns out not for long, the mechanic had it fixed in 5 minutes. We're pleased to discover there wasn't a queue. Being the only vehicle on board (I think it might only take one at a time, maybe 2 small cars) we were free to take photos of Max playing skipper! and look around. Only a 5 minute crossing though.

Driving south stopped in at Reece dam, we could have camped here! but just had morno's instead. No sight of Morcombe and Wise though! They were planning on walking up Mt McDonald.

We had heard that the Honey People had their hives over on the West coast, and today I think we must have seen most of them. Looking up every little track, we could see a small cleared area, with lots of stacked hives - one way of preventing campers from setting up in the area I thought.

Checked out Grqnville Harbour. I know HH would like to do more off-road stuff, feeling quite quilty, but we are on our own, not familiar with the tides, coast etc. Yet another of the West coast fishing shack settlements. Scenery changing all the time. Less forest, phew, can finally see. Nearly at Zeehan, we headed out to the coast again to Trial harbour. The views of the mountains to the South East as we drive down the hill are magnificent. Heading that way soon.

Lovely little place, north side of the community is an area to camp, whilst having lunch here we watched a little inflatable dinghy being launched and watched in anticipation to see it get out past the breakers, through the narrow channel. Were a little disappointed when it just circled round and Later we found out why. There is a small 'history museum' that welcomes all. It is just a room off someone's little home. Shirley the owner is keen to see that the history of the area is not forgotten. Whilst sitting out at the end of the garden overlooking the bay, she told HH the the people in the boat were over from Perth, just catching bait for the cray nets.

Followed a little track south down to goat rock. A vehicle parked up, and quite a lot of tracks down the beach. We parked up and walked down, we could see a couple fishing further down.

Dave was showing his fiancée how to catch fish. Very interesting fellow who makes cray nets. That explained the tea tree branches loaded up on his ute. He makes them to order, about 300 a year at $200 a go. His yard at home backs up to the Seven Sheds Brewery in Railton, said we would call out to him when we dropped past to check out the brew in a few weeks time.

Back up the hill to check out the (very rough track Shirley said). Not very far down HH turned round, not sure why, but I am sure I will be blamed for it. Back to the camp area south of the harbour.

Enjoyed a vegetable curry, the sea pounding on the rocks, 5 little pademelons enjoying their dinner as well. No wind, rain, flies or mozzies - heaven.

	Max, the skipper on The Fatman [Map]		Crossing The Pieman on The Fatman [Map]
	Still Waters [Map]		The Fatman Ferry [Map]
	Reece Dam [Map]		A baby John Deere! [Map]
	Trial Harbour [Map]		Now that is a pile of driftwood [Map]
	A nice cup of tea and a crossword! [Map]

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Corinna

Day 20 - Corinna

Sunday, 16 February 2014

Quite a bit of rain through the night so we had to pack up wet canvas. Not bad, first time for ages. Very disappointed we had heard no wildlife during the night. Later that day we were to learn the forest (this Tarkine wilderness) is so dense that there are hardly any birds!

Welcomed aboard The Arcadia II. Beautiful 75 year old historic wooden boat. Dale the skipper and Ben his mate we're very informative and helpful. The Pieman river is probably like most others on the west coast, very black (tannin) lined with thick forest. Home of the Huon Pine.

Dale took us to the mouth of the River (well almost) giving us an interesting commentary of this area, The Tarkine. The Wild West Wilderness of Tasmania! Having moored off at a little jetty at the Pieman Head, we were issued picnic lunches and we headed off to explore the beach. Patrons of The Arcadia II have use of a little shack if needed, but the sun had come out so we headed off to explore the beach.

Quite a few 'shacks' one of the inhabitants, Bill, is in his 90's, quite able to live out in this isolation. The beach has more driftwood trees than sand. Just amazing, I want to take it home. Apparently Huon Pine, is still useable after hundreds of years of 'drifting' due to its high oil content, something like methyl eugenol. Maybe a good ingredient for moisturiser?

Nobody got left behind and 4 1/2 hrs later we moored up again at Corinna, after most people had taken a turn at being skipper. We checked out all the walks radiating from Corinna. I think I am over forests. So difficult to walk in, ankle breaking stuff. Despite being happy there are efforts being made to conserve them, and knowing how important they are to our planet, I find them dark, dank, depressing, decaying and claustrophobic. :)

Back at camp, minus the mozzies, yay, HH decided to have a go at getting the key back to shape by sticking it in the cooking flame and a few taps with the hammer. Surprise, surprise, with HH gloating, the car started and the heat hadn't fried the hob either.

	The Arcadia II [Map]		The Bridge, Huon Pine [Map]
	The Pieman River [Map]		Pensive? [Map]
	Pieman Reflections [Map]		Photographer getting clever! [Map]
	Fishing shack at Pieman Head [Map]		Not a John Deere [Map]
	More driftwood than you can shake a stick at! [Map]		Lunch on driftwood [Map]
	View behind me [Map]		Looking out to the beach [Map]
	Inside one of the shacks [Map]		Forest walk! ankle breakers! [Map]
	Operation "straighten key" Part 1 [Map]		Operation "straighten key" part 2 [Map]

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